Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi welcome o just answers my name is ***** ***** you tell me the reason as to why you think is the computer that has the problem, have you check for a good power and ground supplied to the computer?, does the engine cranks and starts?
ok yes do you have a multi meter ? we can check for 5 volts right now if you want.
ok at the throttle disconnect the Throttle position sensor and connect the meter red lid connector to any wire on that connector side with ignition key on. Then connect the black lead to any ground on the engine side, put your meter to read DC volts and see what voltage you get touching all the wires with the red lid.
yes that's 200 millis that computer is doing its job, does the engine light stays on when you turn the ignition key to on position and then goes out after 3 seconds?
have you try communicating with the computer using your scanner?
ok if the light goes on and then off it means is working but your scanner is not seen the data possibly do to diagnostic connectors communication wire shorted or open.
it can also be the scanner, have you try your scanner with another vehicle to see if it reads data?
lest check for spark and fuel to the engine do you know how to do this?
what codes are you getting?
ok the connector to the coil should have battery voltage on one wire the other wire is control signal from the computer check for battery voltage with the meter key on.
control side of the coil is not supposed to be battery voltage, is supposed to be a ground signal send by the computer when it sees a good cam and crank signal.
when the 5 volts side of a sensor is shorted do to wires or sensor internally shorted.. The computer will lose its 5 volts reference signal to all the sensors that's why you needed to check the 5 volts at the TPS sensor that means there are no sensors causing this problem, so the problem must be spark or fuel delivery.
first can you tell me the model of your mitsubishi
ok lest first check the fuse to the diagnostic connector , this is fuse 11 and 8 on the fuse box check for power with key on
outside engine compartment
sorry i guess my data is wrong yes please do check inside the vehicle with power on
ok yes you can use the meter set your meter to read DC volts, connect the black lid to a good metal ground on the body and with the red touch each side of the fuse top terminals see if you have 12.5 across the fuse with ignition key on.
ok check the voltage to the battery see if you get 12 volts there.
that's ok voltage drop of 600 millivolts is acceptable. this test means the computer is communicating through that fuse but is the power getting to the diagnostic connector ?
open this page on your browser this is a picture of the diagnostic connector on your vehicle this is where you connect your scanner we need to check for power on pin 16 ignition key on. http://www.remmington.info/16pin.jpg
same way you check the fuse
ok good now Check for good grounds on pins 4 and 5 of the DLC.
leave the red wire connected to 16 and with the black lid touch pin 4 first then 5 see if you get the same reading on voltage there.
if ok then lest check comunication wires to the scanner this are pin #6 and #14 see if they have 5 volts connect the black lid to a good ground and the red lid touch the terminals ignition key on
confirm that for me and then we go in to the coils primary circuit .
are you there?
ok give me a minute
do you have a single coil on each cylinder or one coil with 4 output ignition wire going to the plugs?
ok how many electrical wires do you have at the harness connecting to the coil? 2 or 3
check for voltage on one of those wires with ignition key on
let me know what wire has close to battery voltage one of the 2 side wires or the center ?
no problem ill be on and off thru out the day and night just coming any time you ready.
paste this address to your browser we are going to need it later this shows the wiring to the coil and where power comes from. http://www.srsplatform.com/webservices/Srs.WebPlatform.WebServices.FileManager.svc/POX/Get?project=OemContent&sessionTokenId=219f2056-2d83-40c2-b09c-ddab07c5fef8&file=OEDocs/17702/html/images/F24S_M20590AL_00487.png
ok lest try now . as i was saying before There are 2 primary circuit controlling the coils spark output and one is the 12 volts power in put if you don't have 12 to one of the wires must likely to be the center wire this power comes from the ASD relay automatic shutdown relay i send you a link before showing you the wire harness that links the coil to the ASD relay
locate the relay and in the connector check for 2 powers with a multimeter look at the relay pins they ha numbers on each pin 2,4,6,8. match the pin to the conectors slot and check for power on pin connector 6 and 8 with the ignition key to on position.
did you check the relay socket #6 and 8 ... not the PCM. the relay is to the lower left of the picture
ok good let me check the circuit and get back to you.
OK we are talking about the ASD relay right? pin 8 and 6 on top of the relay should have battery voltage
if you have power on both then lest check for ground to the relay, confirm the power before we continue.
ok let me look at location and get back to you in minutes
ok the left one is the fuel pump relay and the right one gray connector is the ASD relay
OK lest work with the ASD relay you are suppose to have power at #6 and 8 if you missing #6 power then run a jumper wire from #8 to 6 and see if the relay works
go by the wire colors red should be either black and red or brown and red and the other should be black or brown with white you can also send me a picture of showing the wires
OK so you have 12 volts on both wires?
OK see if the relay has output voltage at number # 2 WHEN CRANKING THE ENGINE.
ok is the battery fully charge?
can you get another relay because the output on that relay is suppose to be 12 volts
you should have 12 volts key on and cranking
OK check the other wire on 4 see what you get?
no problem tomorrow will be fine.
sorry i am at work i will talk to you tonight .
the terminals the relay connects to,you should have 12 volts key on and cranking
yes i am
Disconnect the ASD relay. The relay is mounted to the firewall near the master cylinder. Jumper the Black/Red wire to the Red/Black wire at the ASD relay. If the fuse blows, the Black/Red wire is shorted to ground. This wire goes to the O2 sensors, the ignition coil, the injectors, the alternator and the PCM. Unplug the 10-pin connector near the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve to see if the short is gone. In this connector there is a Red wire that goes to the alternator. This wire is spliced to the Black/Red wire at the joint connector under the fuse/relay box. Check that the harness is not rubbing against the EGR valve.
http://www.srsplatform.com/webservices/Srs.WebPlatform.WebServices.FileManager.svc/POX/Get?project=OemContent&sessionTokenId=282a9985-a6e7-43f4-8cb9-80bf730852db&file=OEDocs/17702/html/images/F24S_M20590AL_00491.png "copy this to your browser it shows the asd relay circuit control circuit."
this problem can also be the 02 sensor heater circuit shorting out the voltage to the asd relay that's why you are loosing cranking power to the asd Turn the key off. Disconnect both of the O2 sensors. Try to start the engine. If the engine starts, the problem (short) is gone. Reconnect one device (devices that connect to the ASD relay) at a time until the fuse blows. The device that blows the fuse is the one that has failed.
disconnect both 02 sensors if equipped with 2 sensor.
Hi any luck with your vehicle , did you read the last mail i send you?
Hi lest continue.
ok reading the pass mesage you left me about the 02 sensor wires broken, did you leave both 02 sensors disconnected to do the spark test? because connecting one at the time is not going to work you have to disconect both.
ok leave them disconnected, let me review the pass history we had on diagnostics and get back to you with a different approach to this problem, we are still concentrated on the relays because the problem is around there.
ok now that you know where the asd relay is next to the fuel pump lest check for power by disconnecting the relay and checking for power at the socket.
the coil gets power from the asd relay if the relay is not good this will happen but first we need to check for power to the relay with key on.
. Check the power on the Black/Red wire at the coil while cranking. It should be battery voltage. Check the power and control at the Auto Shut Down (ASD) relay. The Red/Black and Black/White wires should be battery voltage and the Red/White wire should be 12 volts and drop low when cranking, the Black/Red wire should be 0 volts and then go to battery voltage cranking. If the Red/White wire does not drop, check the powers and grounds at the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
so they all have less then one volt?
ok copy this to your browser and open it you will see the asd relay to the left and the wire colors we are talking about notice"RED AND BLACK" wire thats the main feed to the relay and that's the one that has the problem. http://www.srsplatform.com/webservices/Srs.WebPlatform.WebServices.FileManager.svc/POX/Get?project=OemContent&sessionTokenId=707d98fd-dbd3-4690-93e2-2b9e5ce72b11&file=OEDocs/17702/html/images/F24S_M20590AL_00487.png
let me back track on that wire to see where it goes to.
ok you need to go and check all the fusible links on the fuse and relay box located outside the engine compartment there most be one burnt out that's what feeds the relay fusible link #4
let me know if the fusible link is ok. if it is then is the fuse box.
fusible link box is located by the air filter box.