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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8612
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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Same case as many listed but I need pictures to be able to

Customer Question

Doug, same case as many listed but I need pictures to be able to fix the issue. 2004 Endeavor code p0171,p0174 after an engine shop visit. Sparks and Coils were replaced. After car is stopped on a red light or so, the TCL-OFF signal also shows up.
Submitted: 11 months ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 11 months ago.

Welcome, I'm Chris (aka Moose), my normal schedule online is around lunch and after dinner past midnight.

These lean codes are normally a result of a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure. Have you checked for either of those ding to blame?

This is my 1st answer of what can be many. You the website and myself expect you to have a ~~~5 STAR EXCELLENT~~~ experience with my help. At the top of your screen is the rating box that you only get to use once. Please make sure to complete the mandatory rating when ready or reply and say "I am pleased with my answer". Not rating or rating 1-2 stars does not benefit you nor me in any way.

Thanks Moose.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
No I haven't ... I looked by similar cases and I found some. However the pictures to help me identify the hoses amor areas to check are not available. If you walk me through with some visual aids I can figure it out.
Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 11 months ago.

To find a vacuum leak you idle the engine and spray shorts burst of flammable brake cleaner around all hoses, gaskets, and seals from the heads to the air filter. If a leak is sprayed the idle speed will change. To check fuel pressure you hook up a pressure gauge to fuel line that supplies fuel to the injectors.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Moose,I'm not such an expert on this. I can take the car to the shop again to check on what you mention but I'm guessing I will be charge more.I think the problem may be a hose connected to somewhere else. It wouldn't be the first time.I found this on a similar case:"So lets double check the EGR pipe and adapter, and verify where the vapor hose on the intake duct is routed (it is super common to get reversed), and if nothing is there then we will need to use propane or brake cleaner etc to check for leaks from the manifold sealing areas."Can you send me a picture about the area and color code how hoses should be routed?
Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 11 months ago.

Here are the only images the repair guides show for the EGR system and vacuum.

Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 11 months ago.

Hello again Chris here,

  • I am following up with you to see if you got everything you needed from my answer.
  • I have not heard back from you, so I assume you were not pleased. We're you pleased with my help?
  • If you were not pleased with my help, please let me know by replying so I can help more.
  • This post is coming up on the 7 day mark where it times out. When a post times out, that means it's no longer on my active list (you reply and I may never know it.)

Thanks Chris

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Hey! Moose, I haven't had the chance to check on this. I'm doing it now.
So which one is the vapor hose and where should it be connected in the intake? I see a small hose back on the intake duct. Where should that hose end?I'm checking the file you sent me (picture 6252) I don't know all the blue marked area. Is that behind the firewall?Second picture, shows in orange the hose that runs from the intake to the back of the engine to the Evaporative Emission Purge Solenoid. I think this matches the schematic. In white there is a hose that runs from the intake to the back.
Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 11 months ago.

Sorry but your follow up questions can not be answered without pointing them out on an engine. The repair guide images are just not good enough. I will remove myself from this question and opt out.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Can this case be assigned to Doug, I'm sure he knows how to solve it.
It is an incorrect routed hose to the intake however, I don't know by which one should I interchange it.
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Live Phone Call + Live Video Call. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.
Expert:  Doug replied 11 months ago.

Hi Jorge,

Sorry for the delay.

If you are getting P0171 and P0174 only since the plug/coil replacement that is going to make it very narrow for possibilities. The vapor hose on the intake duct is not likely to be an issue on this one since that will normally give you a P0171 and P0175 (rich condition) since you would be drawing in fuel tank vapors if that were the case here.

Regardless, checking is not too hard. Go to the intake duct/snorkel from the air filter and you will see/feel a small ~3/8 hose coming off the back of it. Follow this hose... it should go directly to the rear valve cover. If it goes to the firewall or to the pipe bracket above the throttle body, it is routed incorrectly. Likewise, you will find one hose coming off a pipe at the firewall (right next to the fuel line); this hose should go directly to the pipe bracket right above the throttle body. For reference in your photo, the white hose is correct, the orange hose is the brake booster hose (correct), and to the right of the white hose drawing you will see a brass bracket with a hose pointing down... that is the one that should go to the firewall (the bracket slides in to the manifold right above the throttle).

More likely, assuming of course that the manifold and throttle body are tightened down evenly/tightly and the manifold was not cracked by accident etc, is going to be a problem with your EGR port on the back of the intake manifold (just below the area in your photo). A few different things happen here when people unfamiliar with this model try to take it apart:

1) They simply drop the EGR gasket on removal and don't realize there was one there (you can't see it, so if you aren't holding a hand under it to catch it you'd never notice)

2) More than one set of EGR bolts was loosened (again operating by feel only) and not properly retightened when the correct bolts were reached.

3) Incorrect bolts were removed/loosened (nearest the manifold instead of farthest) and were either left off or over tightened and cracked the manifold.

Of course the basics always still apply like Chris mentioned... check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold to engine mounting area and manifold to throttle body area. You can use brake cleaner while it is running to spray around the sealing surfaces listening for the engine to reach indicating you found a leak.

Otherwise, go right to the EGR port on the back of the intake... You will find double flanges there... the first from the pipe (leading down to the head) there are two 12mm bolts horizontally situated... these are the ones you are supposed to remove during the process. Then flange then reduces to pipe then flares out to another flange that bolts to the intake again with 12mm bolts but in a rotated orientation from before.

First off, make sure all four 12mm bolts are there and snug. If they are, loosen the outer bolts (farthest from the intake, nearest the pipe) several turns and then feel underneath them for a loose piece of tin. You should feel the thin metal gasket moving easily there. If you do not, the gasket is missing. If you feel anything other than a thin piece of metal gasket floating in there, then an incorrect gasket was used (paper, metal composite, etc will all leak here).

If the gasket is in place, it is possible the manifold-side gasket was lost/damaged, that is far less likely though since it is so difficult to service the manifold by unbolting it there, people usually realize the error before getting that far and go to the correct side of the flange instead.

Again if the problem only surfaced after the plugs/coils were replaced, your only suspected areas are going to be the EGR pipe and gaskets or the manifold sealing areas (or manifold itself if broken in the process).