Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
That's great everything is fresh and new again!
With regard to the cruise... can we double check all of the brake lights are working properly? Not just the ones on the tail lights, but the third light on the door that all of them are lit up and if you have bumper mounted brake lights that they are lighting too? If any one bulb is out on the brake lights or is lit dimmer than the others, the cruise will not work. Generally speaking cruise problems are usually the stalk, but we definitely want to check brake lights first and foremost.For the AC... when you turn the AC on do you hear the compressor kick in a few seconds later? How about the outside fan turning on? Does the engine RPM on the tach go up a little when you turn the AC on?
Lets get those brake lights functioning and see if the cruise works after that. Bad brake light bulbs account for a lot of the cruise failures.In the first photo you can see the cruise pump below the intake hose. You can see the vacuum hose is attached to it and to the diaphragm on the throttle, so that all looks good.
Nothing of real interest in the second photo. That may be the compressor plug in the bottom between the radiator hose and power steering hose. Follow it down it should go to the compressor below.
Nothing of interest in the third photo.
Sorry for the delay, I had a dr appointment!
Yes if you haven't already, take a test drive and see if it will set.... press the on button so Cruise lights up of course, then get the vehicle to over 35mph and hold Set for a second or so and let off and see if it holds. If it does not, hold the ACC/RES position for several seconds and see if it acts like it wants to cruise.If nothing, I'm going to see if we can manually check codes in the system right now.
Yep, we sure can.If the cruise is not working now with the brake lights all operative we will want to check trouble codes. To do this perform the following:
With the key OFF, pull down on the lever ("SET") and while holding the lever down turn the ignition key ON.
Within ONE second of turning the ignition key on, push the cruise lever up ("ACC/RES").
Within a second or so the Cruise light on the dash will begin flashing in patterns... two long flashes followed by one short flash would indicate a "21" for example. It will output all codes in order then restart from the beginning after the last code.Write down any/all codes and let me know what they are.
If the procedure doesn't get you any result (even if there were no codes it would still flash steady indicating it tried), then the cruise switch is faulty most likely. The power is good and the ecu is turning on since the cruise light works... it just doesn't appear to be getting signal. For what it is worth, the switches fail a lot, so it wouldn't be too surprising.
The lever on the steering wheel.
Ah fantastic on the rheostat!For the cruise switch they aren't bad... usually around $90 or so. For 01-02 era Montero it should be MR409940.Any info on the AC situation?
The AC compressor is on the driver side of the engine, all the way at the bottom.If it is not clicking on, apart from checking fuses (which I think we already covered pretty well earlier!) then the next step is going to be getting the system evacuated (via recovery machine) to see exactly how much refrigerant is in there. It is important to do this before jumping to any conclusions and trying to "top it off" etc, we need to know exactly what you are starting with. Anything short of a full charge (There is a yellow label on the hood indicating the charge amount) will be an issue... and we will want to add some UV dye and then vacuum the system and perform a scaled charge to make sure it has exactly enough refrigerant. Only then can we start diagnosing the rest of the system... as long as we don't know for certain the charge amount, all other diagnosis will be useless (Since the refrigerant level shuts the whole system down).With regard to the cruise lever.... there is a Torx bolt on either side of the wheel that holds the air bag in. Once the air bag is removed (unhook the battery first) the cruise lever can be unplugged and there will be 2-3 philips screws holding it on. On a 2002 they should be all from the front (so no need to remove the wheel).
I'm not sure what you are asking regarding the Lancer rheostat?
Yeah with the AC having the system properly charged is absolutely mandatory before beginning... most shops will do a evac/dye/recharge for under $100 to get you started, just have them note how much came out too though so you know where you started from as well.Yes, to remove the air bag unhook the negative terminal them loosen the two Torx bolts on either side... they will not come all the way out, they are captive in the wheel. Lift the bag out and unplug the connections then set the bad aside metal side down.
You can remove the lever then reassemble the bag and drive that is no problem. We can do some on-switch tests after it is out as well if you like. Just DO NOT hook the battery up while the air bag is out, it will set a trouble code that requires a dealer scan tool to reset.
With regard to fuses we should be good on that front; for the cruise the only two fuses we worry about are for the brake lights (which we know is good since the brake lights work) and the cruise ecu (also good as the switch turns the light on/off). The AC check under hood #6 (25A), #7 (10A), #11 (20A) #14 (10A) and in dash #10 (20A). There are two other fuses but if the blower fan in the car works they are OK.
Sounds good, keep me posted
Use this, disregard any description in your covers, they are just about always wrong.
Thanks.... sorry for the delays today, I'm out more than in too today.