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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8612
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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Mitsubishi Endeavor Limitedendeavorendeavorendeavorendeavor:

Customer Question

I have a 2005 endeavor XLS. A week ago my GF was driving, called me and stated the defrosters were not keeping the windows clear. While on the phone at a red light, she started to accelerate but had no power. It stalled, she drove into turning lane. Nothing while attempting to start... no click, no cranking, nothing....within 5-15 min flashers also dead.
After work I pulled battery, purchased multimeter. Battery charged overnight, put it back in car, started fine.
Resting volt = 12.4-12.5v
Running with air and lights on = 14v
1500RPM for 2min = 14.2-14.5v
Tested it over a few days in the evening, left car running with everything on, drove around problems.
Ran it this Sat for errands, multiple stops/starts w/air,lights,radio. No problem....until I turned it off at carwash.... Car off key out of ignition, doors and hatch open to vacuum... tried to start to move into wash bay... nothing, no lights, crank, nothing.
MM on battery = 13.2 with key switch on, everything off.
Put jumpers on = same thing - nothing
disconnected ground, connected jumper to cars ground = nothing
disconnected +/- attached jumpers directly to car cable = lights and a click
connected battery back up = car started no problems and drove it home
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No check engine light on dash
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Battery is less than 6 months old
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.


With so many things losing power but the battery being assumed new and charging definitely working, I would be most concerned with an issue in the battery terminals or cables right near the terminals. These are incredibly common to corrode and cause similar behavior. While sometimes it is obvious , other times you would have to look inside the terminal with it removed or unbolt the 12mm nut and look at the cable ends to get a clearer picture of the condition.
I would be checking out those terminals and if the positive one is even remotely questionable, change it out with a new one (a proper replacement, not a lead universal clamp).

If the terminals appear OK, I would take the battery out for testing... and do multiple tests on it. It may be that the new battery has a loose plate in it which will cause random complete loss of power when the plate moves.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Done and done... nothing out of the ordinary
systems aren't loosing power there just isn't anything going thru. Is there any type of relay that may temporary prevent flow of power from the battery.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.


There is nothing that is going to cause loss of power out of the battery except the cables/terminals and the battery itself. They have direct runs into the main fuse panel which then has direct runs into the sub panel, just with the ignition switch cutting power on/off for the key-on devices.

If there is anything cutting power flow from the battery (As in a device) it would be something added/not original.

If the terminals/cables all look OK, I would have to take into consideration that while only 6 months old, that battery likely has a problem.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
All factory... They only thing slightly off was on the positive terminal there is the main battery connector w/3 cables attached to the end of it, one being the fusible link... appeared that the nut was worn inside the battery terminal so I switched it to the other side.
If this was the problem, I don't know that without something manipulating it at the time of parking and turning the engine off, it would loosen enough to prevent the car from starting.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
after looking at pictures the terminal to the battery isn't stock... stock has one bolt to connect to, this one appear like an older generic style, opening to go over battery post with two embedded nuts at the end... the PO was using one of them as a connector
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Yeah that certainly could complicate things. Further, if the terminal was damaged enough to merit replacement, the possibility of there being issues with the cable (corrosion passing through to the cable too) is elevated.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I checked and wire brushed all the connections.... no visible corrosion before cleaning, no wear, or broken insulation
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

If the connection is solid, then the battery would still be your most likely suspect, 6 months old or not.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'll pull it and take it to auto parts for them to check... But from what I can tell and every reference I can find it checks out
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Again my concern would be a possible loose plate in the battery as that will cause a sudden drop of power to basically nothing... and as well when that happens hooking up jumper cables usually doesn't help. The only thing that usually works when that happens is disturbing the battery (torquing the terminals, moving the battery if not bolted down, etc).

I would want to test it a few times, or ideally test it when the problem is occurring. If you start the car up with no issues and drive to the parts store for testing etc, it is unlikely to fail of course. If not tested when the problem is present, a test is not too helpful.

Again based on your symptoms with no power to the vehicle, the vehicle running and operating electronics absolutely normally once the engine is on (and the battery marginally superfluous at that point), then having a problem as soon as the key is turned off.... its only going to be battery or cable/terminal related realistically.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
If it is the battery and there is a plate loose, causing a sudden drop in power , if everything is connected and I'm testing the battery reading plenty of volts but still no power through the system that would leave the connector correct?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Unfortunately the thing to do is to drive it until it happens again, and start checking everything from the battery out . That is not an ideal situation course
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Well it would have to be an amperage test for a reliable result, but yes.

Keep in mind that the voltage is not the reserve power of the battery, the amperage is. The voltage is just the capacity to deliver whatever amperage is available.

For example you can have a battery with 12V but only 100 amps reserve power.... this would be enough to turn on the radio or lights maybe, but not anywhere near enough to power the vehicle entirely let alone operate the starter etc.

In the situation where there may be a loose plate inside since that is what makes it go from suddenly 100% perfect to suddenly inoperative, the amp reading will be drastically different depending on the stability inside the battery. Luckily some of the more advanced battery testers can identify this as a cell damage issue sometimes, so it isn't hopeless testing it whiel things are working... it just isn't ideal either.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'll look around for an appropriate battery tester.... and attempt to find some time to drive it to see if the problem presents itself. I ordered a stock terminal connector to rule that out completely...
Do you have a ordered list of what to start checking if it happens again?
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Sure... just a second I'm having a connection issue right now.

Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

I seem to be having a problem getting posts through, I'm sorry about that.

Getting a amp tester is pretty critical if you can. Then when the problem occurs of course check the battery. We expect in the 500CCA range. If you get a reading in the 100-350 range, try connecting directly to the battery (remove the clamps) and see if the reading changes indicating a connection issue between the post and the terminal.

If you are seeing 500CCA range and the car won't start/doesn't even try... double check your power supplies to see what really is/isn't working. If you for example have no power to constant power items like domes, hazards, headlamps, etc... then you would still be suspecting a problem with the terminals/connections/cables. You might check the main fusible link to see if there is a hair line fissure in it etc.

If however all your constant power devices are working and it is only ignition power things having an issue, then we would suspect a possible faulty ignition switch, as that would cause lack potentially lack of starter operation, lack of radio, lack of AC blower etc.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'll purchase a new fusible link as well.... How do you test the ignition switch...Is it possible to test before problem presents?
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

As with anything, if the problem is not persisting while testing, the test is unlikely to determine anything. It is hard to test for operation when there aren't any problems present.
The ignition switch is on the back of the lock housing (opposite where the key goes in). There is one 12V input... you should have 12V there at all times. The other 4 pins get 12V as the key is turned to each position.

Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Did we ever find anything conclusive on this issue?