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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8622
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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Hey I am ***** *****... fuse # ***** JA: Thanks. Can you give

Customer Question

Hey I am ***** *****... fuse # *****
JA: Thanks. Can you give me any more details about your issue?
Customer: Yes. We replaced the valve cover gaskets and upper intake gasket and put everything back together and now pops fuse# ***** once the key is turned ahead Before it ran fine
JA: OK got it. Last thing — Mitsubishi Mechanics generally expect a deposit of about $18 to help with your type of question (you only pay if satisfied). Now I'm going to take you to a page to place a secure deposit with JustAnswer. Don't worry, this chat is saved. After that, we will finish helping you.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
(Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Live Phone Call. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Hi,If the problem was not present prior to doing the valve cover job, the only expectation here would be that something occurred to the wiring...something pinched, chaffed against metal, etc. It is not all likely that you would have some sudden component failure at the exact time you were doing the maintenance work of course.You didn't mention what sort of vehicle this is, but based on the intake removal to do the valve covers there are a few issues we see with regard to this based on certain models.If it is a front wheel drive vehicle (Eclipse, Galant, Diamante, 3000GT), check the wire harness itself for getting pinched under the intake manifold primarily. Check the fuel injector sub harness too, it can be hard to see due to being under the intake, but it can get pinched sometimes too.If it is a truck (Montero, Sport), in addition to checking the main harness even though it has minimal contact areas, also check the O2 sensor wiring on the back of the engine... this is common to get pinched under the intake manifold, and also check the cam and crank sensor wiring on the top/front of the engine, as this is common to get pinched either in the intake manifold or also in the four point manifold brace etc.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It is a 2000 eclipse gt....everything electrical was fine prior to this we are taking off the intake now....what else could it be?
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Really nothing for a fuse failure... pinched wiring is it. Like I said it isn't like you are going to have some component failure causing the fuse to blow that just happened to go bad when you were working on it. Its going to be wiring related.If you can't see anything readily visible, go ahead and lift the intake off again and then replace the fuse and confirm it doesn't blow anymore (if you don't already see the issue once lifting the intake). Again.... running before, fuse blows now, its going to be something with the wires, either pinched under the intake or chaffed etc.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Give that a look over and if needed pull the manifold again and let me know what you find. I have to step out unexpectedly but will return as soon as possible.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The fuse is still popping after lifting the intake up
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
I apologize for the delay.Lets start lifting the harness up and looking for any areas of contact where anything looks crimped/chaffed/pushed out of position etc.Again, unless we are dealing with amazing coincidence/terrible luck, there is no expectation for anything other than wiring damage since it worked before the repairs and not after. There is nothing you could have plugged in wrong or anything like that.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
We lifted the manifold checked wires but nothing, got it down to the mfi relay
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
If you are saying the MFI relay when pulled causes it to not blow the fuse, then you will have a short on one of the 12V output wires from the relay. On this particular model the most common (non related to your repairs) issues is the main harness resting on top of the thermostat housing above the transmission area. The harness ends up chaffing there and shorting out, a very common issue on these cars.Otherwise of course the same would carry over as I mentioned before... damage during the repairs etc, though it sounds like there was none and this was a complete coincidence in the timing rare and unlikely as that would be, or it just hasn't been found yet. Either way.... if I understood correctly and pulling the MFI resolves the fuse, check that harness where it rides over the thermostat housing area, lift it up real high etc and see if the condition changes.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The fuse is still popping
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Keep digging. There isn't really anything else to look at. A fuse blows because the 12V output of the fuse is touching ground one way or another. That's it. I wish there was some easy part I could tell you to replace but it just isn't so. You need to find where the MFI 12V output is grounding out, and that isn't something that can be determined remotely... it requires hands on inspection, and a thorough one. Visually looking around the engine bay is one thing, but if it was that easy to find you would have caught it already (like if you had crushed the harness etc). Nothing short of isolating the wiring and doing inch by inch inspections will find the issue at this point. If you suspect that something did just happen to fail out of nowhere with no relation to the job being done, then go ahead and unplug ALL MFI devices (all sensors under hood as well as all injectors, solenoids) and see if the short goes away. If it does, reattach one at a time until the short returns indicating the failed component. If you unplug all MFI devices and it still blows then you are still going to be dealing with a problem in the wiring... and at that point it would probably be in your best interest to let a professional look it over as it may be something that you've been over several times at this point but are just overlooking it.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
We narrowed it down to the wire that goes from the ignition relay then splits off and goes to the immobilizer and pcm but there is one other wire we are unsure about as to where it goes to
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Hey that sounds like some good progress.If you can get a photo of the wires you are concerned about I may be able to shed some light on it, but without having at least one connector end visible it will be difficult.Never the less, it sounds like you are on the right path; as I mentioned before, nothing short of pawing over all the wiring will help at this point.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The red wire with the Grey electrical tape is the one we are unsure about and the connector is c-07...we have that unplugged and it's still shorting out so it's not any farther than that
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
That's the MFI output wire from the looks of it, as we suspected. The usual short point is right over the transmission where the wiring goes across the thermostat housing etc. There is no need to go to the interior with this or anything like that... you should be real close to it in that first photo.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
We already looked at the point over the thermostat housing
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Well again that is the most common area.There isn't really much else I can say... I wish I could come over there and find it myself, but unfortunately all this medium will allow is for me to describe where to usually expect it and how to find it via following the wiring. It looks like you are nearly dead on it (the wiring even looks burnt there unless it is the photo). You have to find the short there isn't much else I can say about it.