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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8622
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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I just changed the fuel pump on a 2003 Mitsubishi. Is there

Customer Question

I just changed the fuel pump on a 2003 Mitsubishi. Is there a reset switch for fuel pump?
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.


There is no reset switch for the fuel pump. What was the reason for changing it?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Me an my son was at work an he went to move the car closer to building an it started then died an you couldn't here the fuel pump kick in when you would try to start it again.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
My sob said the day before he was getting on off ramp an it acted like it was gonna die.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.


Setting the fuel pump situation aside briefly (these are extremely rare to fail), can you please make the following inspections?

(1) Check for spark while cranking

(2) Remove the oil cap and have a helper crank the engine while you watch in the oil fill hole to see if there is movement

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I would really love to call it would make it a lot easier but I don't have $26 to pay.
There was a spark but now I will have to get my son to help check the oil thing. I'll get back with you in a few min.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

No problem.

If we have good spark that rules out a few things (including the fuel pump origin signal). Lets see if we have upper engine rotation next when you can.

No worries on the call... on a situation like this online is far better anyway since we can't logistically address all possible scenarios/inspections/etc via phone call in a reasonable amount of time.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I just drained my battery but what I could see the cam moving up an down.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.


Those two inspections rule out some pretty common and bad suspects so that is good.

Lets get the battery charged up, then pull the fuel pump connector off and measure for voltage between the two heavier gauge wires on the connector while cranking and let me know what the reading is. Note is must be read while cranking, not just key on.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It looks like I've got to find a way to town an get charger will you be around for me to talk back to you?
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

I will be here for a few more hours tonight, then will return tomorrow afternoon as well. If we miss each other tonight you can still reply back here and your message will be held for when I return. You do not need to open a new question or pay any additional charge etc; we will just continue here.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK I'm going to hurry an hopefully catch you before you leave.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

No problem

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi I was wondering if you could tell me how to tell if my sons car jumped time?
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

No problem.

You will need to remove the upper timing covers first. The forward cover is held on by a 12mm bolt down by the alternator and two 10mm bolts along the top. The rear cover shares one 10mm bolt, then has two more behind it, and a 12mm down low (you have to reach it from below with the belt tensioner off).

With both upper covers off, use a 1/2" drive ratchet and/or a 22mm socket on the crank pulley to rotate the engine clockwise. While watching the cams, stop rotating the engine when the small | notches in the face of each cam gear align to the V notches in the valve covers behind them.
If the two cams do not move, of course the belt failed; if the two cams move but do not both line up to the valve covers at the same time, the belt jumped.

If the cams line up to the V notches in the valve covers, then look down the front of the engine at the timing scale on the lower timing cover. It will read "20-15-T" or similar. Pay attention to the | notch cut into the side (right next to the belt contact area) of the crank pulley and see where it aligns on the scale. If it aligns to the T (or can be nudged very close to it) while the cams are lined up, the belt is most likely in time. If the mark is not on or extremely close to the T, the belt jumped time.

Technically to verify 100% you would want to pull the crank pulley and lower timing cover off, just in case the crank gear separated from the reluctor, or the crank pulley spun on its damper etc... these are not too likely though. An external examination is normally sufficient to identify if you have an issue or not.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Do you think that the crank sensor might be bad. After I spoke with you the other night the starter ended up burning up on the car so had to get another one and changed it but the car still won't start it acts like it hurts every once in awhile. And I had a friend tell me that they thought that it jump time.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

If the crank sensor is bad you will usually have all or nothing. With the exception of a few aftermarket ones of questionable quality, if the crank sensor has any issues, it simply won't do anything.

You can relatively easily check the crank sensor by pulling a plug wire and checking for spark.... if there is consistent spark, the crank sensor is working.
If it seems mostly dead but every once in a while you feel/hear something promising but it never amounts to anything... I would not be suspecting the crank sensor too much unless it just happens to be coming and going, and again that is somewhat rare. A check for spark will confirm it one way or the other though. I would be more suspecting a belt timing issue or a weak spark issue (distributors are common to fail on these, resulting in weak orange spark that can't keep it running).
By far I would be checking for spark then checking belt timing, were it me.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK I no it I has a spark but I'm not for sure of the color of spark so I'm gonna check that . now if it is a oarge color spark can you tell me where the distributer is located.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

If it is orange, then the distributor is a distinct possibility. I would still do my baseline inspections however, verifying belt timing, verifying fuel flow, etc. While the distributors are not unusual to fail, having a belt issue etc is far more likely.
The distributor is located below the throttle body, you have to take the intake hose, the battery and the battery support bracket out to reach it.