Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
The main area of concern here is the 513 code. Did you recently have something happen to the vehicle, specifically anything involving wiring, a computer, or something with your ignition key?
Ah, that explains a lot. The P0513 fault is indicating the key is not being read properly, and having just had a key made that makes perfect sense. These vehicles use a transponder type key that has to be programmed into the computer before they will allow the engine to start; if the vehicle is attempted to be started with an unprogrammed key (or otherwise non working key) it will set the P0513 and prevent the injectors from operating.These keys can not be programmed by most lock smiths due to compatibility issues with the software most lock smiths use... putting you at just Mitsubishi for your options to program the key. It is also important to note that if you use a keyless entry key (has the buttons on it too), programming the keyless entry can be done by a lock smith (or yourself) but this does not program the transponder. That action requires a factory scan tool.
I couldn't say if it is bad based on those codes alone, only that the computer doesn't recognize it. What I can say is that if the key was just made and the vehicle wasn't towed to a dealership for programming, you can just about guarantee it isn't programmed. There are very few lock smiths that can do Mitsubishi keys successfully.
If the key that was cut is just a dummy key (like you would get from the hardware store, no transponder inside), then you will need a key as well as programming. If it is a proper transponder key then it would just need to be programmed.
Most dealerships do a flat rate 1/2 hour charge for key programming (around $45 depending on their hourly rate). If you need the key too, for an 06 you should have the button-type key that has built in keyless entry operation, and those run about $140 from the dealership. You can sometimes find them online for cheaper, but you have to be kind of cautious with the Chinese replica keys... they sometimes are DOA, and when they are you can be sure the dealership is going to charge you to try to program it either way.
That is fine, as long as it has a compatible transponder in there it can be programmed. The keyless function is not necessary, many people opt for the transponder-only key to save money on the key (even though it isn't technically made for this car).
Very possible and confirms our problem as well... there are several different transponders used over the past 15 years, and only 3 different key shapes, so the odds of getting an incorrect transponder key are pretty good if it wasn't pulled by VIN. As long as it is getting the transponder mismatch message on the scan tool, that key is never going to program... you'll need to get the correct key for it while you are there.
Oops, I just saw you said the new key... if that is the case, then something went off the normal path on the way leading to you. Perhaps someone tried a different ETACS in there or something.
Yeah if thats the case then they are going to need to do some diagnostic work on it.... namely checking the ETACS part number matches the VIN designated part, making sure it and the PCM are VIN coded correctly (matches the VIN on the dash etc).
The key data is stored in the PCM, but the ETACS and immobilizer ecu do the actual grunt work of the system, so I would expect an issue with one of them (ETACS replaced trying to fix some other problem and creating this one, immobilizer ecu unplugged etc).
The ETACS is mounted to the back of the dash fuse panel. The immobilizer ecu is mounted behind/below the radio bolted to the frame rail.I would double check both are fully plugged in/seated and inspect the wiring for anything obvious in the vicinity (like someone had a remote start or breathalyzer interlock that was removed etc). Since you are at the dealership have them do a CAN bus diagnosis too and see if any modules are not responding.