Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
What model vehicle is this and which engine is installed?
I see two questions under two different accounts for a 2004 Outlander, it looks like you may have registered twice with the site. I am going to go and report the other question to have it closed and refunded for you. I will post back here in just a moment.
Alright I got the other one reported so you should either get a contact from customer service or just a refund on the deposit for the other question before too long.With regard to your issue with the car.... the cam shaft sensor is located on the back of the head, it is the black sensor with three wire connector sticking out of the aluminum housing extension on the very end of the head opposite the belt end. Note that while these do fail, it is not terribly common if they are genuine sensors. Aftermarket sensors however have a very bad track record and often do not work even right out of the box... so it would be advised not to just replace it "to try it" as it usually adds more problems if you aren't getting a factory unit.
The fuel pump is located under the carpet in the back seat, there is an access panel there so you do not need to drop the tank luckily. However before getting into that lets check for spark first. If there is a problem for example with crank sensor it will cause both spark and fuel to stop, so finding out if we have spark is a good first step.
To check for spark you need to remove the air baffle off the top of the engine (one hose clamp and five 10mm bolts) then remove one ignition coil (10mm bolt) and remove the spark plug (5/8 socket). With the spark plug reinserted into the coil and the metal body of the plug grounded against the engine, crank the engine and see if you get a consistent/repeating spark from the plug while cranking.
Don't worry about setting up skype, as I don't have access to that on this computer (no audio). This will be something that will likely be easier to approach through text anyway as we may need to go back and forth with some tests etc.
No problem at all. I will be here throughout the day.
It shouldn't have shocked you, are we certain the plug was plugged in fully and grounded well (and the spark didn't arc through you instead of the electrode)?
Thanks, ***** ***** have spark that help a good bit.
Lets take the oil cap off and have a helper crank the engine while you watch through the oil fill hole. Can you see movement inside the head while cranking?
Great, that is good news.
So we have spark and we have most likely normal compression/timing, so lets get on to the fuel pump area.
Go to the back seat and pull the seat bottom out. There are latches roughly centered at the front edge of each seat position then it just pulls forward to remove. On the driver side there will be a access plate and under it the fuel pump. With your ear to the pump, have a helper crank the engine and see if you can hear the pump hum while cranking. Note it will only do this while cranking, not just key-on.
Please unplug the five pin connector and note the thickness of the wires. You should see two significantly thicker wires on the connector usually on their own row. These are the power/ground wires for the pump motor. Please hook up a DC meter to these two pins on the harness and read the voltage while cranking.
Let me pull up the schematic real quick
You are seeing 10.5V while cranking when measuring between the two pins on their own row, should be colored black on one wire and blac/blue striped on the other?
It sounds like you were right on the money.... you have good voltage at the pump motor while cranking but you are not hearing the pump run, that pump is likely shot.
The only thing I would do from here before replacing the pump are just two inspections....
First, I would take an old DC motor of some sort (fan motor, etc) and connect it to the pump power wires and crank the engine to make sure you have enough current to run the motor. It is rare, but every once in a while I will come across a vehicle that has 10-11V there while cranking but is very low current. Hooking up a different known-good load rules this out; if the fan motor or whatever you choose runs normally while cranking when hooked up there, you know you have adequate current to run the pump. If it does not, then you would be worried about a wiring problem or deteriorated fuse box etc. Very very rare, but in case you haven't figured, I like to rule out everything before investing in parts :)
Second, I would pull the pump module out and check the continuity between the connector on the top of the pump module and the wires on the bottom of it that run to the pump motor. The reason for this is that we do very rarely see these pump module housings fail where the power reaches the connector, but due to deterioration inside the housing the voltage doesn't make it to the motor.If you have good current tested at the connector and you have continuity between the top and bottom of the pump housing, then get a new pump motor and you should be good to go.
Bilge pump is perfect... you just want to make sure you have the current to go with the voltage. That pump runs, then you know you have good current to the pump. Just a matter of the connection on the housing or the motor itself. You can of course hook power directly to the motor (once removed you'll see it has wires inside for it) too.If I can do anything else for you just let me know, I'll be here throughout most of the day.
We use quick connect fittings on the pressure line. For an 04 there should be two buttons to push in on the side then it slides off, that was the most common fitting in that era for Mitsubishi. If you are unsure you can take a photo and I can review it.
The return line is just a hose clamp then slide it off.