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Ask Doug Your Own Question
Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8594
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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How much does this cost?

Customer Question

How much does this cost?
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Can you help with multiple sensor error problems?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
In addition, I just replaced the engine in this car a week ago and ran fine with no problems. No error codes at all.
The car started to hesitate and threw a MAP sensor error nnd crank shaft position error.
Af the Crank shaft sensor err or the car stopped running.After waiting for about 1/2 hour the car would start and run until it dropped to idle.
I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the engine ran fine for a day or two and started to fail again.This time it not only shower Crank shaft position error but MAP sensor failure, Throttle position Error, Something about fuel pressure or level. not sure but 6 errors all together.This leads me to believe it is not the sensors but possibly the ground problem or something else.
The forum boards have suggestion but no one has a confirmed fix.Batter voltage is around 12.8 volts not running, have not yet tested voltage while running...
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Pardon my spellin...
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, Some more data.
Got the engine started and started to log some data.
Throttle Position(%) remained at 16.5% until TM 77.7 then dropped to 14.1
Engine Speed Remained constant at 1398 RPM no change until end. (Odd)
Barometric Pressure: Remained steady the whole time at 28.3 "HG as expected
Calculated load(%) quickly rose to 100% and stayed there
Mass Airflow sensor remained steady at 3.86 the whole time
MAP("HG) Remained steady at 11.4 until TM 69.9 then jumped to 28.6
Ambient Air Temp(*F) Started at 0 and dropped to 66 TM 24.5
Coolant Temp Rose from 102 to 131 throughout the running time.
Intake Air Temp matched the Ambient Air Temp above
Ignition Advance started at 24 and quickly dropped to 1
Short term fuel trim stayed steady at 0
Long term Fuel Trim stayed steady at 0
Vehicle speed was 0 mph
Absolute load value rose quickly to 100%
Fuel system Loop Status: Open
Relative Throttle position Jumped to 8.6% until TM 69.6 and dropped to 5.5
Command Throttle Actuator control started at 8.6 % and dropped to 5.5 at TM 77.7
Throttle Position B Started at 16.5 and dropped to 14.1 at TM 77.7
Accelerator Throttle Position D Started at 25.5 and dropped to 19.2 at TM 77.7
Accelerator Throttle Position E Started at 12.6 and dropped to 9.4 at TM 77.7
EGR Command = 0
EVAP Purge = 0
EVAP Vapor Pressure = 0
Commanded Equivalence Ratio (Rich/Lean) dropped to 0.841 and remained steady
O2S11 O2 Voltage Bank/sensor = 0
ST FTRM11(%) Fuel Trim Bank/Sensor = 0
O2S12 O2 Voltage Bank/Sensor = 0
ST FTRM12(%) Fuel Trim Bank/Sensor = 0
O2S13 O2 Voltage Bank/Sensor = 0
ST FTRM13(%) Fuel Trim Bank/Sensor = 0
Distance since DTC Erase = 0
Warmups since erase = 0
MIL DIST (mi) = 0 miles
Fuel level =16% the whole time
Control Module Voltage dropped to 10.54 when cranking, rose to 14.35 volts until TM 69.6 and dropped to 12.45 volts
Engine Run since start = 1 min 16 secondsHope this helps
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.


Before doing anything else I would try a new genuine Mitsubishi crank sensor in there. The fault code alone leading up to it is usually reason enough, and then having the unusual behavior after replacing it is a strong warning sign something went wrong there. These vehicles are extremely particular about their crank sensors (or any hall-effect type sensor) and can not use aftermarket sensors in any capacity (even ones sold at places like OReilly that swear they are Mitsubishi sensor... they are not). Using them will just about always produce unwanted results including a bunch of strange fault codes.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The replacement crank sensor was out of the original engine. There was no problem with the original engine before. but I will get a new CPS from the dealer to try.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Lets try that first, since the change in condition forming after it was replaced is a very strong indicator of something relevant. If no change, then I would be carefully examining the wiring to make sure nothing got pinched or stretched, that the ground wire by the alternator is intact, etc.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Alright I'll check the alternator and the wiring harness next looking for any pinched wires.I tested the socket on the CPS to see the voltage reading and the red wire on one side was 5.04 volts the center terminal was around .04 volts and the terminal on the other end (white wire with black tracer?) was 5.04 volts. I connected the sensor to the plug and had the same readings. Waving a magnet near the end of the sensor made the white wire drop in voltage. Sometimes around .5 volts sometimes only 2.5 volts. Depends were and how fast I moved the magnet.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

If the engine was recently replaced, I would pay attention to all wiring for damage. For example the crank sensor wire where it drops around the bell housing is common to get pinched there etc.