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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8612
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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I've got a 2007 l200 animal, I've just had a gearbox fitted

Customer Question

Hi I've got a 2007 l200 animal, I've just had a gearbox fitted from a 2012 l200. The vehicle now will not change down from 4th to third the place we bought it from assured us it was a good box. Is this a serious problem or is it possible to repair thanks
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Expert:  Doug replied 2 years ago.
Before anything else I would get it to a dealer and have the transmission controller reset. The scan tool will have an option for learned value reset which will basically tell it to forget everything it learned about the transmission and start fresh. This way it does not try to apply its adaptations learned from the old transmission to the new transmission... that can cause a bunch of weird behavior with shifting, not the least of which would be refusing to down shift.
If the unit is known good and correct for the vehicle, that should take care of it. If there is still an issue, then I would want to take both chassis numbers (your vehicle and the one the donor came from) to the dealer and have them verify the transmission is the same between the two. There are many sub-level changes to the transmissions that will allow them to be cosmetically the same but operate in a different manner. This is identified by the last 3 digits of the transmission model number (for example R4A5A-J-LBZ versus R4A5A-J-LEZ).
If the transmissions are not the same... well then you know you have an issue there and need to find the correct one to avoid any anomalies. If the transmissions are the same... then their assurance it was good was likely just a guess. At that point you would want to get full line pressure tests performed on the unit to see exactly what is happening when you try to down shift from 4 to 3 (line pressure changes appropriately, meaning the basket is not responding correctly, or line pressure does not change correctly indicating a valve issue or pressure loss somewhere etc).
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hi thanks for the reply, the gearbox is a manual not an automatic does this make a difference
Expert:  Doug replied 2 years ago.
My apologies, the way out was phrased about it not changing I interpreted that as the transmission itself trying/failing.
For a manual transmission this changes pretty much everything. If you have a specific gear you can not down shift to it is most likely the synchronizer ring is hanging up.
The only things you can do really is check your gear oil level is correct (right up to the fill hole on the side), and check your clutch pedal for adjustment. Note if you have the late style clutch pedal (no adjustable clevis), this is out. If you have the adjustable clevis make sure your pedal height is correct and engagement occurs at a normal position, then bleed the system for air and recheck.
If everything is okay at that point and nothing seems out of sorts yet you still have the difficulty down shifting into third, your only expectation would be a synchronizer problem inside the transmission. From that point a tear down is in order... There is nothing external that can be done apart from what I described above.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Thanks for that. The strange thing about it is though sometimes it will go straight in without a problem & other times just won't go in at all. When it refuses to go in most of the time if you press the clutch twice it will go in. There's never any crunching or noise whatsoever though.
Expert:  Doug replied 2 years ago.
Yeah that is pretty unusual.... usually when you see a double clutch scenario like that you have a slipping clutch, and for some reason the second pressing of the pedal slows the shafts more allowing better opportunity to shift. This would be indicative of clutch disc wear or previously mentioned pedal adjustment.... but usually if this is the case it will affect multiple gears, not just one (or if it is just one, usually 1st or Reverse due to their ratio).
I would still go over the previous items...I'm assuming the clutch was new/verified OK when the transmission was out, so then just verify the oil level, verify pedal placement if you have the early adjustable style (and not the primarily plastic one), and bleed the hydraulics again. If there is no improvement, I can see going internal on the unit to check for damage. Hopefully it doesn't get to that point.