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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8608
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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Mitsubishi: 03 eclipse w/a 2.4 codes for crank and cam sensors

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03 eclipse w/a 2.4 codes for crank and cam sensors please help

When you see both cam and crank sensor faults, 90% of the time it is going to be belt timing related. This will cause temperature related running issues as well.

Is there any back story to the condition? For example it had a different issue then after repair it had this one, or it ran fine prior to X event occurring when this started happening, etc?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

this car was towed in with these symtoms,it looks as it ,or someone changed engines,although i am not sure.after i changed timing belt and crank and cam sensor i cleared codes and let car run for 15/20 minutes.died,hit key restarted me it seems heat related but?


How does it run when it is running?
Have you compression tested the engine yet?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

it runs good, and has good compression 145/160 all cylinders,this car does not have a distributor,does this thing have a factory theft derterant in it.honestly it starts right back up,runs for less than a minute than quits.

The only engine related anti theft is the immobilizer system, and its only action is that it grounds the injectors so that they can not fire. If you have an immobilizer issue, the engine will just crank and crank with no start ever.

You said you thought the engine might have been changed... there is an issue with certain engines that can not work directly in this vehicle and are often installed by mistake. Lets see if we can rule that out.
Look on the back of the engine, above the transmission but just below the cylinder head. You should see a VIN engraved there.... do your best to get the number for me as accurately as possible so we can see if this came from a compatible vehicle or not.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

im not at work now, im home what are your thoughts,give me a idea so i can deal with this in am.thanks alot Gary

No problem Gary.

There are two things to be concerned with on 2002-2005 Eclipses.
1) You can't use an Outlander engine (well you can, it doesn't run right though, ghost codes, etc)
2) You can't use any pre-2002 Eclipse/Galant engine without modification.

The second one is what we see A LOT. People will grab a junkyard engine from a "Eclipse" or "Galant" as the junk yards do not differentiate between them. When you get a 2000 for example though, the cam reluctor is very different between them. This results in an inaccurate cam/crank correlation fault and some odd side effects to the running condition as the fuel timing will be just slightly skewed from the spark timing.
If the 10th digit on the VIN of that block is anything other than 2 through 5 (for 2002, 2003 etc), then the cam reluctor will be incorrect. Further, if it is an Outlander VIN (starts with a J), I'd strongly recommend swapping it out with a proper Eclipse/Galant engine as there are lots of tiny differences that not only affect operation now, but maintenance later (water pump is a few millimeters different for example, which will cause a huge headache for the next guy in there not knowing, etc).

Apart from that, it would be a back to basics situation... cam and crank faults rarely mean two sensors failed, it is nearly always correlation issue. The belt was just set so not likely an issue that it is wrong now and before hand, but still worth a double check. Also the crank reluctor should be carefully inspected.... while this year is not typically an issue as the reluctor should be a one-way fit, if they put an older engine in with the dowels that hold the reluctor its possible they sheared allowing the reluctor to move, effectively giving incorrect timing report to the sensor.

Two other items I have to mention:
Aftermarket sensors.... especially cam sensors... do not get along with these computers and can behave abnormally causing stalling, false error codes (which when the sensor is new we are quick to dismiss), no start operation, and just poor running. And all randomly. If the sensor is aftermarket, I'd recommend putting the old one back in for your testing unless it is clearly aftermarket too. If you search through here you'll probably find a half dozen instances of people nearly tearing the engine apart on this model because a brand new sensor didn't work and it made no sense.
Second... while your compression is passable, it is very much on the low end (minimum spec is 140, ideal is more like 180-200 for a "healthy" engine, average usually 170s). It would be a good idea if you haven't already to warm the engine up fully them compression test it hot if you haven't already to make sure you aren't seeing any compression loss when hot (gasket beginning to fail, etc).

Let me know if I can help further.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

one last thing where is the serial # XXXXX the engine block? thanks for all your help. Gary

No problem.

You will want the VIN number, which is at the back of the engine, above the transmission. It is just below where the head meets.
You can see it if you remove the air intake hose and get creative with a flash light and mirror... the coolant hose/pipes are a bit in the way, but nothing making it impossible.

Here is a rough idea of the location:
Disregard the B, that's the balance shaft check hole, I have no idea why they marked that. There is also a serial number on the block below the #1 exhaust port, however it is of no use to us without the VIN unfortunately so we have to have that regardless.
Remember the VIN should be engraved, not on a plate even though it looks that way in the picture, so you may have to take a soaked rag and scrub the block a bit to get a good read. If you can't read all of it that is OK, just make sure the first digit is a 4 and the 10th digit is 2, 3 ,4 or 5.
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