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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8612
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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Mitsubishi Eclipse GS: Hi Doug... I own a 2006 mit eclipse

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Hi Doug...

I own a 2006 mit eclipse se and I just recently began having a similar problem with one door not locking/unlocking with the remote or with the power lock inside the cabin on the door. My car is older ..i bought it in 05 with 11 miles on it now it has 115k still runs and looks great though so this is my only complaint. The battery in my transponder was dying and signal was faint but just yesterday, I had a new key cut and put the transponder into a new shell with a new battery. now only trunk opens and passenger door locks with the remote. Then when I go to press unlock, the driver door never unlocks, the passenger door unlocks maybe 1 out of 3 attempts. I haven't had any rewiring or alarm systems added, just my original system. Obviously my bumper to bumper warranty and my powertrain warranty are both up, so I'm trying to get some insight on whats wrong before i try to go to the dealership and get robbed. Any help would be greatly appreciated, i'm irritated because this just started happening out of the blue a cpl months ago. **fyi funny thing when i got my car inspected in july and the tech ran it on the machine, all that came back was that i needed a new gas cap since the rubber wore off of my factory one. But crazy thing is, after he took it off the machine..both doors worked with all of the remote functions so i'm sure that it must be electrical. please help :/

Thanks for your patience.

This is pretty text book failure of the lock actuators int he door latches. We are seeing these occur more and more on the 2006 and some 2007s as they are aging. When this occurs you will notice a few things like you describe:
Lock(s) will behave more or less the same whether you use the remote or the button on the door.
Lock(s) will sometimes favor one direction over the other, depending on how they failed internally
Lock(s) will sometimes work a little, then the next push a little less, then the next push nothing at all, etc. This is the actuator overheating.

What I would do first here is some careful situational inspections.... while these actuators are failing a lot right now, it is not necessarily a "sure thing", and access to them for testing.... well, it stinks.
The areas of concern here are possible water entry/corrosion, or failure of the wiring where it passes through the drivers door into the chassis (the rubber bellows area), as wiring can break here from years of opening and closing.
The first thing you should do is sit in the driver seat and try to operate the locks electrically while moving the door into various positions (only the drivers door... a failure here would affect both doors locks). If at any point you can get the lock to act normal, even just once while the door is in a different position, you know 100% you have brittle or even broken wires in the harness where it passes through the bellows. This is fairly common (more often seen on the Endeavors right now since they launched in 03, but the harness is the same set up).

If there is no noticeable change, look under the driver end of the dash at the fuse panel, make sure there are no signs of moisture, no green goblins growing in there, etc. Sometimes we will see sunroof drains leak in here and cause chaos.

If nothing is found there, then it is time to deal with the actuators. The theory here is real simple: Unplug the actuators and hook a meter up to them to test for voltage. If you see a full 12V or -12V when you press the button in either direction, the actuator is fried. If you don't, we need to look back in to the previous noted areas and further.

Now for the reality....this is a terrible terrible job, for as basic as the premise is. This is because this cars doors use "cartridges".... the door shell is just a U shaped frame with a skin on it, and the entire regulator, motor, window glass, etc are all one assembly that comprise the inner structure of the door. It stinks. You definitely want to have your afternoon cleared when you start this, and having a helper (simply for the second set of eyes) is infinitely helpful the first time. The cartridge is held on with a bunch of 10mm bolts primarily, but also 12mm and 13mm. The delta glass really needs to be removed or at least loosened to safely get the cartridge out, and the glass needs to be UP when you remove it, just to make it that much more precarious.
With the cartridge out you can get to the actuator (part of the latch) to remove it.
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