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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8594
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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Mitsubishi Lancer ES: How difficult/expensive is it to remove

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How difficult/expensive is it to remove and replace engine mounts for a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer?
There are four total mounts on this vehicle:
Front engine mount (near drive belts) Rear transmission mount (below battery area)
Front roll stop mount (near center bottom of radiator)
Rear roll stop mount (near center lower firewall area)
The engine and transmission mounts are both about $125, and the two roll stop mounts are both about $70. You can purchase these aftermarket (NAPA, Autozone, etc) for a decent savings over Mitsubishi prices of course. Additionally, if you prefer genuine parts, you can order them from, they sell genuine parts for 25% off list price.
Installation time is just a bit over 3 hours to replace all three (figure about $270), however realistically it does not take this long to change them. Replacement of two of the mounts can be done yourself fairly easily, and the other two are a bit more difficult, but doable for a seasoned DIY person.
Starting with the easiest:
To replace the front roll stop mount, loosen the cross bolt in the mount, then remove the four bolts holding the lower front/rear crossmember to the frame. Slide the cross bolt out and drop the crossmember out of the car, and unbolt the roll stop mount from the crossmember and install the new one.
Second easiest:
To replace the front engine mount, put a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan and support the engine. Remove the bolts holding the mount to the frame and to the engine, then remove the mount and install the new one.
For the more difficult ones:
To remove the transmission mount, put a jack and block of wood under the transmission to support it. Remove the intake hose, battery, and battery support bracket. Remove the bolts/nuts holding the mount to the frame and the transmission then remove the mount and install the new one.
To remove the rear roll stop mount... you really need a vehicle hoist for this one, as this is very difficult to do on the ground. You will need to remove the cross bolt by putting a wrench on the right hand side and accessing the left hand side through multiple extensions through the wheel well. Remove the mounting bolts to the K-member and ... this is the fun part... fish the mount out of the engine bay. The mount will only come out if it is negotiated around everything in the way, which will take numerous flips and turns to find a smooth way out. This is why it is good to have the vehicle well over head so you can comfortably move and view it's position.
Doug and 3 other Mitsubishi Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Also has a heater problem NOT blowing warm. The air blows cold and no hose leaks under the hood.
Are these problems related in any way?
If not, any idea of what the problem may be along with a cost??

These problems are definitely not related in any way.

With regards to your heat... do you have any difficulty turning the temperature knob?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
not at all

Can you look under the driver side of the dash, at the AC box in the center of the dash, and verify that when you turn the temperature knob the linkage on the other end of the cable is moving?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
wow - too dark to see!! So one plan is check to see if the cable is moving. Ok Is there a plan B???
No problem.

The concern with the cable and linkage moving is we see a large number of these vehicles having the blend door jam. When this happens usually the knob will get stiff, but eventually the cable will either break, pop off the linkage, or even the knob can break. This, while common, is the worst case scenario, as repair requires removing the dash to replace the blend door.

If the cable and linkage are moving smoothly, then you will have a coolant issue with your heater core.
This can be one of three things... an air pocket in the cooling system trapped in the heater core, a blockage inside the heater core, or a bypassed heater core.

Air trapped in the heater core is the most common of the three issues, and can come about from age as the coolant is consumed over time, or from improper refilling of the cooling system after a repair that required draining the fluid.
One quick way to verify if this is the case is to bring the engine up to operating temperature (needle centered on the gauge), then turn the heat on, fan on high speed, and rev the engine to about 3000 rpm. If you feel a change in the air temperature (not necessarily hot, but significantly warmer than at idle), you definitely have an air pocket. Bleeding the system would be required at this point, which is a series of running the system at upper rpm with the radiator cap off, topping off and repeating. "Radiator funnels" can help make this a bi less messy and faster.
It is possible for this to be the issue and not see an increase in temperature when revving the engine, but it usually will be a bit noticeable at least.
Obviously you would want to check for leaks just in case if it is determined to be an air pocket.

A blockage in the cooling system is not too common, but can happen, particularly at higher miles if the cooling system has not be serviced regularly. The best way to verify this is again bring the engine up to operating temperature, then locate the two heater hoses going into the center of the firewall in the engine bay. Grab both hoses... if one is hot and the other is cold, there is no flow going through the heater core. Now this can also happen from an air pocket, however revving the engine usually will not correct this issue if it is a blockage, so that is how you would differentiate here.
If this is found to be the case, you would want to remove both heater hoses from the heater core in the engine bay, then try to blow out the heater core in both directions either with compressed air or pressurized water spray. If you can not get flow going through the core smoothly in both directions, you will need to replace the core. This requires removal of the dash, and again is a rather expensive repair because of that.

Lastly a bypassed core is not terribly common, but does happen particularly when a previous owner gets a leaking heater core and does not want to spend the significant cost of replacing the unit. What is done instead if the two hoses going into the heater core in the engine bay are removed from the heater core outlets on the firewall, and connected into each other, 'bypassing' the heater core... no coolant goes through the heater core, so of course there is no heat.
Again, not real common, but possible and easy to check the hoses on the firewall to verify.

If the blend door is operating smoothly, odds are you will simply have an air pocket in the system that needs to be bled out; it is a very common issue particularly as these vehicles get older.