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My mercedes 190e 2,3L 8v m102.982 engine wont start, no

Hello, my mercedes 190e...

Hello, my mercedes 190e 2,3L 8v m102.982 engine wont start, no spark, i have checked the coil and changed both coil and ignition module :/ still not starting

Mechanic's Assistant: Do you have the trouble code? Do you have a code reader or scan tool?

Nope :( i only have a simple multimeter

Mechanic's Assistant: Not a problem. You can work with the Mercedes Mechanic to figure that out. What year is your 190E?

Its a 1987 model :)

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your 190E yourself? What have you tried so far?

Yes i have! i changed the engine my self a year ago! i have tried diffrent changing coil, ignition module ,distrubutor and cap, also spark wires. i have also changed the main brain to engine located behind battery tray! and i have checked that the coil and ignition module gets power and ground!

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

Yes, the ignition system on my replacement engine m102.982 has an older kind of ignition system than the original motor. from original ezl ignition to Tzl ignition if i spelled it right! but my car worked fine all the time untill i replaced the K-Jetronic system, so i dont know what could have happen to the ignition system while i worked on the K-Jet system! thanks for helping me out!

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
the original motor was an m102.962 by the way. and new motor is m102.982 and ignition module serial number: 002 545 59 32
Answered in 9 hours by:
1/20/2018
Marty
Marty, Mercedes Technician
Category: Mercedes
Satisfied Customers: 54,742
Experience: Bosch Certified Master Tech. Over 35 years experience.
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Hi, my name is***** you explain what happened? Did the engine swap work fine originally until you performed some work on the fuel injection system? What exactly did you do?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
everything worked fine after the engine swap untill i performed work on fuel injection system! i had problems with high fuel consumption and little power when i floor it, so i started changing out parts on the engine, i tok out injectors and ke jetronic and disconected all wires that goes to the ke jetronic, then i wrapped wires in fresh tape so i was sure the wires was protected, then i mounted everything again with parts from a donor engine that ran fine! and when i cranked it over it would not start, i took out spark plugs, wires and rotor to check if i could find any problems, but everything look fine! then i got a new ignition module from a friend, tried it on, and no changes, same thing when i changed out the ignition coil and engine "brain" located behind the battery, but i cant find any problems! i also changed out the throttle body and sensor, i dont know if this could have something with this to do, because it is the original throttle body from this m102.982 engine W124 donor car since it only has 1 vacum nipple instead of 2 vacum nipples that is originaly on the engine i blew before the engine swap, but thats why i mentioned the engine swap because this engine has an older ingition system that pick up signal from the rotor and cap instead of flywheel as my original 2.0L m102.962 engine had, so i suspect it has something to do with the wiring or parts that does not fit with my original engine wiring harness! hope you can understand my poor English, im from Norway! thank you for helping!

Ok, you mentioned that you changed the ignition system over from a flywheel sensor system to a distributor pick up system but this was working fine after the engine swap, isn't that correct? If that is the case we need to find out what happened when you removed the injection system. Can you send me a picture of your engine compartment so I can get a feel for what we are working with?

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
nope, thats wrong. when i swapped the engine i had to put in a new brain and change ignition module because of the original motor M102.962 190e 1990modell has an newer ignition that picks up signal from flywheel instead of at distributor pick up system that my current motor M102.982 from a 1987 modell W124 230e.and yes everything was working fine untill i removed the injection system and installed it again!i can take more pictures in daylight, its dark outside now. hope this picture that i took some days ago will help!

So does the current motor use the flywheel sensor or the distributor pick-up?

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I see the green wire from the distributor pick-up. Disconnect the green wire from the ignition module and measure the resistance of the pick-up with an ohmmeter.

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Also, see if you can send me a wide angle picture of the entire engine compartment.

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Customer reply replied 1 month ago
current motor uses distributor pick up! i will measure the resistance in the morning! :)
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Just checking in. Were you able to measure the resistance of the pickup coil?

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Customer reply replied 29 days ago
Hello! Yes! I mesured 518ohm on my multimeter!

Do you have spark at the coil tower when cranking the engine? You can use a test light to check for spark. Ground the test light and insert the probe of the test light into the tower but don't let it touch anything. Just hold it in the tower and have a helper crank the motor.

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Customer reply replied 29 days ago
I have only tried a spark plug in the coil wire to se if something happend, but nothing did. ill have a friend help me in the morning so i could test it, is it something else i should check while i have a friend helping me? Easy with 4 hands instead of 2 hands :D

If you have no spark at the coil tower I will need you to check the voltage to each of the terminals on the coil with the key on. Also make sure that you have 12V to the ignition module.

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I will also need you to connect your voltmeter to the green wire and crank the engine. Set the voltmeter to the AC Volts setting and let me know if the sensor produces an AC voltage when cranking.

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Customer reply replied 29 days ago
okay! thanks, ***** ***** try! :)

Sounds good.

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
hello! i just tested now, i got no light when i tested the coil, and when i measured pick up point it shows 0.56 AC V...the coil and ignition module shows 11DC V when i test them both! :/

That would point to a bad ignition module. How did you test the coil for spark?

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
hmmm , weird since i tried a second ignition module! I when i checked i took a test light and grounded it in the engine block and tok the other end in the coil! I could try one more time since we now are suspecting the ignition module �� it could be i didnt get good point of contact when i tested the coil, would it be better if i tested for light with the sparkwire in the coil and measure on the other end of the sparkwire?

Don't let the test light touch anything in the coil tower when inserting it. Just suspend it in the tower and see if spark jumps to the test light probe when cranking the engine.

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Oooh! Ill try that as soon as i come home!

Ok

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Customer reply replied 27 days ago
hello! i still didnt get any spark :s

Ok, do you have 12V at both terminals on the coil with the key on?

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If you have 12V to the coil I'd say you either have a bad coil or a bad ignition module or a fault with the wiring between the module and the negative side of the coil. I'd ohm out the wire between the two to be sure you have continuity.

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Customer reply replied 27 days ago
i could! But do you have wiring diagram to the coil and ignition module? so im 100% everything is connected right too!

Standby

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Customer reply replied 27 days ago
Thank you ! I will look into it! Should i write down the values of the cables or do you know the values? I have a spare car so i could take parts from and measure the value of the cables !

The wire from the coil to the module should have continuity (no resistance).

Let me know what you find.

Marty

Marty
Marty, Mercedes Technician
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Satisfied Customers: 54,742
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Customer reply replied 17 days ago
Hello! sorry for long time between anseers and working on my car. i have checked, it has no resistance,but i have 1 wire thats black and red going in to the positive side of the coil that has no resistance between ground, doesnt that mean that the wire is shorted out? or am i wrong? this wire comes from the fuse box it looks like,but it is weird since no fuses has blowed?
Customer reply replied 17 days ago
but i do get 11.47v at the wire i get a continuty betweed ground as i wrote above here with key on acc!

That black/red wire should measure 12V with the key on.

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Customer reply replied 16 days ago
i think its 12V if the battery is fully charged with the key on

That's fine.

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Customer reply replied 16 days ago
what could be the next problem ? i have a complete spare 2.0 engine with the same style rotor and cap, i could take the whole "thing" out and try that? is it some way to check if the ignition module is working?

If you have no spark from the coil and the wiring is good I would try another ignition module.

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Customer reply replied 16 days ago
okay,so basic i need 12v at the coil, and the pick up on rotor is working and the ignition module might be default, so that is what i have to look more into?

Correct, you should also have 12V and ground to the module.

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Customer reply replied 16 days ago
ok! thanks i will try!

You're welcome.

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