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I just bought a 1989 C60 Chevy dump with a 8.2 NA Detroit Diesel.

Customer Question
I drove it about 100...
I just bought a 1989 C60 Chevy dump with a 8.2 NA Detroit Diesel. I drove it about 100 miles without a problem. The headlights did not work but park lights did. I replaced the HL switch and dimmer switch and problem fixed. I started it up and it runs for 20-30 seconds and shuts off. No sputter, sounds electrical, restarts fine. Sometimes if you turn on the lights it stops, release the air brake, it stops, too coincidental. It will stop on its on as well. ALSO, the low air pressure alarm will not stop even after achieving proper pressure.I wondered about fuel flow but it will shut off in the middle of a full rev, not sputter, just switch off dead. Any thoughts welcome.
JA: Working headlights are essential for a safe drive. Luckily, the mechanic I'm going to connect you with will have just the tips you need for a quick fix. Are you hoping to fix this yourself?
Customer: Yes
JA: Great! What have you tried so far?
Customer: The lights work now.
JA: Is there anything else the GM Mechanic should be aware of about your GM?
Customer: no
JA: OK. Got it. I'm sending you to a secure page on JustAnswer so you can place the $5 fully-refundable deposit now. While you're filling out that form, I'll tell the GM Mechanic about your situation and then connect you two.
Submitted: 1 year ago.Category: Medium and Heavy Trucks
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Answered in 11 hours by:
4/25/2016
Technician: Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician replied 1 year ago
Jeremy
Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician
Category: Medium and Heavy Trucks
Satisfied Customers: 3,394
Experience: ASE Med/HD Truck Technician, NATEF Diesel Engines and Electrical/Electronics Technician, EPA 608/609 HVAC Certified, Steering/Suspension and ABS/Brakes Technician
Verified
My name is ***** ***** I will assist you with your question today. I'm an independent contractor and I don't get paid until a rating has been made. We can go back and forth as needed to help resolve the issue you are having. Follow ups are free after ratings, so rate in confidence! First, check the alternator output, but more importantly, the diode test. When the diode goes bad and the voltage back feeds, you get those issues that you have. You'll notice it with turn signals, headlights, brake lights, etc. Rule that out first and foremost.__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________You want a 5 star service and I want to provide a 5 star service. Please consider that I don't know your skill level as well as I can't see, touch, smell, hear the vehicle/machine in question. Please provide as much detail as possible and I will provide as much back. Once an answer is provided, you should see a rating screen. Please rate my personal service to you. The ratings are my personal feedback,they are not the site feedback. Thank you for allowing me to assist you through Just Answer! Jeremy
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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Thanks for your reply. Can you explain the diode test. ? on the alternator. I do have multimeters. The alternator is new BTW.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
OK the diode test is complete readings were 1 in one direction and 1036 in the other direction of polarity.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
The alternator test was acceptable. Adding a load in addition to the headlights ofter killed the engine but I did it enough that it maintained 13.8 with an increasing load but it did drop in the 12s briefly.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Any chance of further progress on this issue promptly?
Technician: Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician replied 1 year ago
I had to go to the hospital for a family emergency. I apologize in late responding. You are dropping to the 12s with the vehicle running when you turn the headlights on? You shouldn't be dropping below 13.6 roughly. Wit the engine running, you should be at 14.1. So the question is if the alternator is new and good, then where is the connection issue or is there a dash cluster issue since it sends the signal to the alternator. With the multimeter, while checking the output, wiggle the plug on the alternator and see if you are bouncing around indicating a possible short in that pigtail going to the alternator.
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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
No change in output when the wire was moved around. I talked to the former owner. This same problem prompted the installation of the new alternator and new batteries two months ago. The beeping stopped and the truck no longer died intermittently. Evidently the beeping started before the truck started dying.
Technician: Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician replied 1 year ago
I have to opt out. I'm at the hospital with a very close relative that is end life with stage 4 cancer. Please don't respond to me for it could lock me back on the question. Thanks.
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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
This is not going to work. Please refund my payment and I will move on. No bad ratings. Just take care of this now.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Your timeline for answering questions is totally unacceptable. Are you going to ignore my request for a refund as well. I took a chance with you and it did not work. Please refund and I will move on. I may be the wrong person to jerk around but I am certainly trying to be fair.
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Jeremy
Jeremy
Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician
Category: Medium and Heavy Trucks
Satisfied Customers: 3,394
3,394 Satisfied Customers
Experience: ASE Med/HD Truck Technician, NATEF Diesel Engines and Electrical/Electronics Technician, EPA 608/609 HVAC Certified, Steering/Suspension and ABS/Brakes Technician

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