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I have a***** Oil was going in the water, and I changed

I have a***** Oil...
I have a***** Oil was going in the water, and I changed the oil cooler. Oil still is going in the water. The truck now won't start without ether. Can you tell me what I need to do?
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Answered in 13 hours by:
6/8/2015
Technician: Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician replied 7 years ago
Jeremy
Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician
Category: Medium and Heavy Trucks
Satisfied Customers: 4,370
Experience: ASE Med/HD Truck Technician, NATEF Diesel Engines and Electrical/Electronics Technician, Network Engineer specializing in CAN faults, Aftertertreatment, and vehicle communications
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My name is ***** ***** I will assist you with your concerns.
What engine is in this?
Did you drop the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system to see where the leak is at, yet? If not, do this.
Are you sure the engine coolant was flushed and cleaned well and the oil isn't residue from the oil cooler job?
Depending on the engine with the miss, you could have a cup issue or even a head issue that is causing the miss and the mixing. Be ready to send the head out for a flux test. Drop the pan first and pressurize the cooling system and look for leaks.
Jeremy
Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician
Category: Medium and Heavy Trucks
Satisfied Customers: 4,370
Experience: ASE Med/HD Truck Technician, NATEF Diesel Engines and Electrical/Electronics Technician, Network Engineer specializing in CAN faults, Aftertertreatment, and vehicle communications
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
I did flush it out and the filled the water last night.....it may have been 1/2 gallon low, but it is clean. When I crank it and let it run, it has a slight miss. After it gets warmed up, it doesn't want to crank. When I drop the pan, how do I do the pressure test?
Technician: Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician replied 7 years ago
That added info just told me exactly the issue. The hard to no start after engine warms with mixing is bad injector cup. You have one or more that is cracked which causes all that you described.
That extra info definitely turned the light switch on.
You have water galleys at the cups and when they crack, the heat makes them expand and do a partial overlap, which allows oil from the engine to seep in. I bet if you check your exhaust pipe, you're going to see tiny spots on the top of the exhaust stack from the coolant that is seeping slightly. It's small, but just enough to cause a slight miss.
Macks are notorious for needing cup replacements. They finally got sued about 3 years ago and are now using stainless cups. The bronze ones are what they were using and making a ton of money replacing them.
I would get your cups done especially if you never done them before.
To answer the other question, to pressurize the engine coolant, you use a radiator pressure tester and build to 15 or 20 psi. If there is a coolant leak, you'll know it. It will show you where your coolant is getting the oil from. If you don't own one, you can get one from Autozone on their tool rental program for free to use.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Thank you so much!
Technician: Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician replied 7 years ago
You're welcome.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
We pulled the injectors out....checked the cups.....found no cracks. Going to do a compression check, but don't know what else to check. Any suggestions?One more thought.... We haven't mentioned it, but the motor is computerized.
Technician: Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician replied 7 years ago
What engine do you have? The E7? Is it a replacement engine?
Mechanical or electronic, the mixing still needs to be found. The injectors can be different with the electronic engine. For that, you might be able to get a code with PTT since it now pulls up old VMAC III codes as well as VMAC IV.
First, lets see what is mixing for that can be a factor of cups, sleeves, head gasket, or a whole new head/engine...
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
It is an E7 engine. If it is a replacement engine...it was replaced before I got it.....I have had it for several years. There is no water in the oil. I am pretty sure that the oil has stopped going in the water. We only see slight traces of oil in the water. I am just puzzled as to why it won't crank now. It all happened about the same time. Any more suggestions? And when it does crank and is sitting running it sounds like it has a slight miss. Before I broke it down and was driving it down the road, if I pushed the gas petal down all the way, black smoke would come out the exhaust for a couple of minutes. I don't know what PTT and VMACIII and VMACIII IV?
Technician: Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician replied 7 years ago
Those are the Mack programs used to connect to the truck.
Were the injector harnesses unplugged with the oil cooler? Recheck them just to make sure one isn't unplugged causing the no start issue.
Otherwise, if the missing was going on before, you may have a worn out injector or pump as Mack likes to call them now. I would have them pop tested to see if any are not spraying properly since you have them out to check the sleeves. If they are all passing as good, then do a real good look over on that harness. The E7 engines have a lot of harness problems for the injectors because of the heat they take. If it is the original harness, I can pretty much be certain that it is melted somewhere, usually the back of the engine. I tend to find a lot of them melted in that area at the last injector. Pretty common area to melt and break inside.
Also check the ECM for corrosion. They used poor grommets on them when built and moisture does get in and cause that type of issue as well.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
The O rings on the bottom of the injectors were split (all of them) but none on the top. Could this have been any of the problem? What would have caused this? They weren't split vertically....they were split horizontally.
Technician: Jeremy, Certified Truck/Bus Technician replied 7 years ago
Yes, that would cause it.
On the misfire... It could cause that as well because it is allowing the combustion by, but it could still be the injector.
I would replace the orings and see what you get. In the shop, we still pop test the injectors just to be safe. We can have it done for $15 per injector for pop test. Not sure what rate in your area would be. Pop testing tests flow and gives a flow chart, spray pattern, pressure test, etc. Well worth getting done. It's like a see through engine and you can see the injectors in action.
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