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2000 mazda mpv 2.5 lx starts for one second then dies

2000 mazda mpv 2.5 lx starts for one second then dies
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Answered in 6 minutes by:
10/14/2016
350matt
350matt, Engineer
Category: Mazda
Satisfied Customers: 22,472
Experience: Mechanical Engineer BEng Hons22 years experience
Verified

Hello

This sounds like a lack of fuel and could be a lack of fuel pressure from the electrical pump at the tank.

1st thing to try is to remove the fuel filler cap and then flick the ignition on whilst listening for the brief ‘buzz’ of the pump

If the connections to the pump are corroded or damaged then the pump could stop at any time or could not be running at full speed. Check that its relay switches in and out and the relay contacts are clean and bright – replace the relay if in any doubt and do the same for the fuse,

Ideally measure the pressure at the injector rail (should usually be around 3Bar / 45psi +) and if this is low check the pump as described and also consider changing the fuel filter as if this partially blocked this too will reduce pressure.

You can also get this issue with contaminated fuel , if there’s water or dirt in the tank then either the petrol floats on top of the water or the filter sock on the pump is choked up – so if the other things check out then I’d consider pulling out the fuel pump and cleaning the filter sock

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
The van start and runs with the throttle half way
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Rpms jumps up so you have to back of the throttle then you have to press it down again to were it stay running

Ok thanks for the extra information

This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out causing rough running.

As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

It’s also worth cleaning the MAF sensor wires, as they can get coated with dirt over time which then offsets the reading

Use some contact cleaner or brake cleaner to spray onto the wires to remove the dirt – on no account touch the wires with anything as they are very fragile

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Thank you for the info. will check . Also the van had no problems before I fix the exhaust leak at the flanges. It started and ran with no problems, all you heard was the exhaust leaks

OK

thanks for the extra info

I'd say it would be wise to reset the ECU to erase the learning its done with the exhaust leaks as this will have forced the ECU into an incorrect state

I'd try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery cables and clamping them together for 10 mins. Remove both battery leads from the battery then use a nut and bolt or G-clamp to hold both battery lead terminals together.

This discharges any capacitors / memory within the ECU and around the car so ensures all memory settings are wiped clear - back to the factory default.

This will reset all the systems on the car and you may need the radio security code to get it going again, and ensure that the keys are in your hand when you re-connect the battery as the car may lock and turn on the alarm

350matt
350matt, Engineer
Category: Mazda
Satisfied Customers: 22,472
Experience: Mechanical Engineer BEng Hons22 years experience
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350matt
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Category: Mazda
Satisfied Customers: 22,472
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