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Having a issue with 2007 Lexus LS460L with air suspension

issues. Sending code of C1734 which...
Having a issue with 2007 Lexus LS460L with air suspension issues.
Sending code of C1734 which is:"RL Damping Force control actuator circuit" for Rear Left.
Have in Toyota dealer now getting worked on to figure out what the problem maybe. Mechanic said he will be testing circuit and component starting tomorrow.
I'm hoping it's not an air strut issue and it's some component that does not require replacing all the struts.
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Answered in 7 minutes by:
11/21/2017
Eric
Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager
Category: Lexus
Satisfied Customers: 32,946
Experience: 20+ yrs. experience as repair shop manager and technician.
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HI,

While possible that it is the electronic suspension ecu or the wiring, most of the time it is the dampening control actuator for the left rear.

If this is the case, the part lists for $205 and is 1.9 hours labor, about $250 at dealer hourly rates, total around $455

It will NOT be all the air struts.

If for any reason, you can't rate my answer OKAY, GOOD, or EXCELLENT/3 STARS OR HIGHER today. Please reply and let me know why, so I can help more/better. All follow up responses are FREE, after completing the required rating

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Here's a pic of the testing sheet he's showing me. I bought the car about 10 days ago out of state and didn't catch the tremendous bounce the car was experiencing when a bump was hit. Sometimes we hear the rear right side bottom out. Notice on the highlighted line in the pic that Damper step for RL it's stuck on 17 where the others went to 9 on value.
Does this also help narrow down the problem? Also I've done the old fashioned testing of pushing down on the rear right fender to get the car bouncing to see how quick the shock dampens the bounce and it seems to go for a couple of extra ups and downs.
One of the codes it had given in the last was C1762 which said it was continuous current to exhaust solenoid. Strut solenoid I'm assuming. Code reader said it was not a current issue but was in its history.
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Guy at Toyota shop said he had to do some testing of the circuits and component to make sure the voltage was correct etc.

HI,

Looking at the values, I suspect the dampening control actuator. It is mounted atop the air strut and is replaceable by itself.

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
I see. I've seen some pics of that part on the strut. I think the rear seat has to come out to get to it. So the other struts, if they were bad, would show up in this test he's running? Any idea about the history of the exhaust solenoid being powered up all the time? Anything else I should know about? Heard it's real expensive to fix if the struts need to be replaced.
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Just hoping the part in the other struts aren't role where the testing doesn't pick up. Parts that are not connected electrically.

HI,

The rear seat, and the rear shelving all come out to get to the top of the rear struts

If the struts are bad due to wear, which would not set a code unless they were actually leaking, you are looking at around $4500 in parts and $1000 in labor.

Have not seen issues with the exhaust solenoid valve on this model myself

Eric
Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager
Category: Lexus
Satisfied Customers: 32,946
Experience: 20+ yrs. experience as repair shop manager and technician.
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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Okay so the struts could be worn out bad but would not throw a code. I've seen where you can replace with spring struts retrofits. Want to do that IF the other struts are bad before I have this fixed. Is there a way to test the struts prior to playing the Damper fix? Is there a true way to verify they are good before moving forward that you know of?
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Side note,.. when we out tires on last week the guy said he didn't see any leaks, hydraulic I'm assuming, on any of them.
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Put tires on

Hi,

Bounce test with engine on and struts filled. Push down and it should go down, up and settle. If it goes down more than once, they are worn and need to be replaced.

Now on the Left Rear, the bounce test wont work, but will on the other 3.

Arnott Industries, Suncore and Strutmasters all sell conversion kits

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Okay thanks.
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Struts filled? Meaning time to air up?

Hi,

yes. Give it about 3-5 minutes to air up and then do the bounce test at the corners

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
I see. Also I've never heard the air compressor coming on.
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Is that part on the strut something that could be changed by myself? There is not resetting by computer that would need to be done is it?
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Also could you provide a part number so I can see what to get?
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Would you know a part number?
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Like maybe this is it?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/122818281059

HI,

It is pretty quiet. The compressor is at the right front behind the bumper and behind the right front wheel well line which quietens the noise

Part number for the actuator is(###) ###-####

The fault code would need to be erased. This is done with a scan tool or 50 drive cycles of at least 10 miles in which same fault is not detected

Directions are attached

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that is the part

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Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Thanks so much. I thought it was a remote module.
Customer reply replied 23 days ago
Also thanks for the instructions.

you are welcome

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Customer reply replied 19 days ago
One last Hail Mary if I can. I had ordered a strut Damper actuator for the rear left strut since it seemed to not be tracking from the input from the service tech. Said it was stuck at “17”
I’m thinking and the service tech said that 17 was the softest setting and maybe since it’s stuck there and making the entire backend soft in the ride causing the bouncing.
As in the right rear was trying to carry the entire load but only doing it at 50% capacity.
Also if I install the pre-owned Damping actuator to the strut is there a indexing issue? I’m imagining they the actuator is like a stepper motor that just rotates the “spline” in the strut to a certain spot on its rotation travel limits. (Probably not the correct words to use but I’m trying ha)
Maybe the unit sets itself by rotation ccw until it stops and then knows where 0 is to start fresh. Guessing here. Ideas?
Customer reply replied 19 days ago
I’m assuming that there are 17 steps or increments in the strut itself and I’ve just checked the used actuator and see it has stops. Would full CCW or CW on both aligned work to get them in sync? I believe that must be it as it doesn’t rotate a full 180°
I’ll probably be more comfortable once I get inside just wanted to be able to move forward once there. Can I donate more to you for additional help like you are providing? Don’t want to wear out my welcome with you.
Customer reply replied 19 days ago
Only way I see to do that is to ask a new question.

Turning both full CCW or CW should get them in sync. I have never installed a used one before. The new ones come set to match up with the control rod turned 40 degrees as shown in previous diagram.

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Customer reply replied 19 days ago
Hey Eric while i'm still trying to analyze what the issue i'm experiencing is from i'm wanting to get up to speed on the way the air struts work with the actuator. It seems that the actuator has 10 increments when I rotate the shaft unpowered. I can see where this rotates the shaft and am assuming that it somehow reduces or increases the flow of hydraulic fluid from one cavity in the strut to another and back and forth. I ask because I'm thinking of doing some shock test by pressing down on the fender as we discussed earlier and see how the manual rotation from one extreme to the other of the strut shaft affect the "bounce" factor. I'm assuming that this would allow me to verify that the hydraulic side of the strut is working or not. Does this test seem reasonable or do you have another idea?

HI,

I have never cut one in half to see how the dampening works internally and Lexus doesnt publish that as it is considered propiertary information. Your supposition is probably correct on the chambers, but I cant confirm it

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Customer reply replied 19 days ago
Just got the cap off after struggling with the seats.
Pulled the cap off and the actuator was not engaged with the strut and the wire plug was not on it either. Plugged the wire back in and thought maybe there was a way to test it while looking at the shaft in the actuator. Running and pressing the “sport to comfortable” mode switch back and forth does nothing. Is there a way to test the old original actuator?
Customer reply replied 19 days ago
to ground all other tips should be within 12-12.8. Ohms? Does it matter what the tester is set to?
Customer reply replied 19 days ago
Tested the original and they all settle in after about 5 seconds to 12.8 even the newly purchased used one does the same. The original one is missing the side ss clips that engages the strut.

within specs then as far as resistance.

Unfortunately the only way to test if it responds to commands from the control module is with dealer scan tool

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Customer reply replied 16 days ago
I gave up and bought some used rear struts from a car with 34,000 miles that was in the Texas flood. I confirmed that I can get to the top of the strut. Any special tools to get the bottom worked out or should I take it to a service technician?
I feel I could work my wY through the removal and reinstall process but not sure if I need anything special for done below.

HI,

No speciality tools needed. I have attached directions to replace them for you. The directions give all the torque specs you will need

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Customer reply replied 16 days ago
Thanks again. I’ll attempt it and hope this solves it.
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Eric
Eric
Eric, Automotive Repair Shop Manager
Category: Lexus
Satisfied Customers: 32,946
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