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Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Lexus
Satisfied Customers: 14422
Experience:  Lexus Expert
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I had to remove the intake manifold to get to the back 3

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I had to remove the intake manifold to get to the back 3 spark plugs. In doing that, I broke a couple things. I broke the vsv vapor switch trying to remove one of the hoses. I put the car all back together anyway and it wouldn't start. I'm banking that no having that hose on would cause the car not to start?Finally, there's a hose barb with no hose and I cant find any hoses that match the barb. I have a video of 1) a loose hose coming out of the intake manifold. 2) the open barb that I don' t know whats supposed to be hooked to it.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
here are pics and video link

The large hose that you don't know where the end goes to and is laying freely behind the manifold where is it attached to on the other end?

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
1996 Lexus es300.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
That goes to the intake manifold. It's the first part of the video.

First of all from watching a video clip see the attached illustration you have the ground wire altered to the intake manifold stay. That is not a good idea. Ground wire needs to be bolted to the and a intake manifold there should be an 8 mm threaded hole that a 10 mm headed bolt goes to and secures that wire are usually two sets of wires. That being said click this link and download illustration the valve with one hose on it is the power steering idle assist and should have intake manifold vacuum on one side and the other hose goes to the throttle body. As far as that large hose it seems too big to go on that PS switching valve but it is either that or the brake booster hose that goes directly to the intake manifold over on the passenger side of the intake.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I don't see what you mean about the ground wire altered? For that diagram you gave. Is there anything that tells me what that number that the hoses point to IS?

In the photograph that I attached is a red arrow pointing to the ground wire to the black intake manifold bracket. It has to come off of there and bolt to the aluminum intake manifold.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Right now that's not attached to anything, but yes I do know that should be bolted next to the brace that holds intake manifold in place.

You have it all straightened out now?

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I want to keep this open until I put it together. I have parts coming so it might be the 10th or 11th til I'm ready to put it together. Is this ok?

yes that is fine

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
If this vapor switch hose wasn't hooked up (because it was broke)---- would that prevent the car from starting?


Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Would not having that grounded correctly that you mentioned a couple responses earler make the car not start?

Yes those intake manifold grounds are computer grounds.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Wow, that was a great thing that you noticed that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great job. I'm pretty worried though now, because there's a few more vac hoses that fell off while I was working on it and I'm going to have a hard time putting this back together I think. Now I've ordered new injectors (remanufactured ones) because I figured I'd do everything while I got it apart.Ted

You are welcome. Let me know how it goes.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I've replaced the injectors, and I'm thinking if I don't clean up the intake manifold where it bolds on to the car and the manifold itself I'll just clog up the new injectors? I'm also thinking that if I try cleaning with wire brush and some carb solution that the stuff will fall into the car or into the manifold itself. Plus, I can get all the way into the manifold itself anyway. What do I do here before putting back together.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
OH AND should I put a new intake gasket or can i reuse the old?

I do not recommend reusing the old gasket. As far as the varnish buildup on the inside of the intake manifold unless you know someone has a hot tank that can totally submerse hot tank the inside just leave it go you will only be able to get part of that with a wire brush and carb clean then you could disturb was left in their you're better off just leaving it. It will not heard anything.

Customer: replied 7 months ago. shows a way to clean it. Not worth it?

Agreed. Not going to make any difference for all the trouble to do.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
i get it all back together, and im pretty sure i got everything right but it sorta starts sputters and dies wont keep going. I do have a diagnostic tool Can you guide me on what to do next or is this a new question now? I want to deal with you.

are you getting any codes set in the computer? Do you have fuel pressure when it quits? Does it loose spark when it quits?

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I've not hooked the code tool up yet. I need to know the procedure. Do I just turn the key on? Where do i plug it in? theres the one thats in the car and another thats on the pulley side of engine. I don't know how to detect fuel pressure. I don't know how to tell if it looses spark.

You need to start with Hooking up a code reader to the port in behind the coin box on the driver side. It is a standard DLC three connector. Turn the key on and check for codes in the engine control computer.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
again, im not experienced at running the code tool but heres what i did i plugged it in and it fault 01 and p1300?

P1300 code means that the igniter circuit has failed this explains white starts then shuts right back off. Normally you're dealing with an elliptical problem possibly in the igniter itself or one of the ignition coils or in some cases I have seen a crank sensor signal or cam shaft sensor signal screwed up and sends the wrong information causing a false 1300 code to set. Basically what happens is the computer sends out an IGT or trigger signal to the igniter the igniter then grounds one ignition coil which fires two cylinders at the same time one on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust stroke. Once the ignition coil fires the field coil collapse causes IGF or ignition confirmation signal to be triggered in the igniter and returned back to the computer. This code will only set because the computer does not see the ignition confirmation or IGF signal. It therefore then shuts down the injectors and the will start for a second or two then shut off. This is a very complex circuit to diagnose and inspect especially without an oscilloscope. Double check all of your connectors to the ignition coils and to the igniter make sure that the harness is not damaged and the connectors are intact if the problem was not there prior it's possible it could be a bad connector or pin fit.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I did put in new coils. wheres the igniter?

Is located next to the mass airflow sensor and brake master cylinder mounted to the strut tower. If you have the old ignition coils I would stick them back into confirm that you did not get a bad ignition coil.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
can you get me a pic to know what it looks like? again, should we open another question to you so you get paid again?

I have not gotten paid for the original question. You have not applied a rating. We can continue and you could just leave a bonus but keep in mind this type of circuit is very difficult to diagnose in this format. The igniter is about 3 in.² by about three quarters of an inch thick. It has 10 pins approximately in the connector going to it and is mounted directly on the vertical portion of the strut tower. I do not have any pictures of one.

Skyvisions and 3 other Lexus Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
how do i leave a tip, when i gave you 5 stars it didn't give tip option?

Not sure how looks on your end usually there is someplace to add a bonus. Let me know how it goes

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Hey its fixed! I had remote start put in a month ago and a wire coming out of the igniter was spliced and it had separated. Thanks for all your help.

Your welcome glad to see you got it resolved without having to replace a bunch unnecessary parts. I would be careful tapping into or splicing into those igniter wires if you get any kind of feedback or voltage spikes you could damage the igniter or computer depending on what wire they spliced into.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
It was the gray wire and i had the battery unhooked. I sodered everything together and tapedit up

The only completely gray wire is the ground side of the number two ignition coil they could be using at is a RPM signals hard to say for sure. As long as you got it cleaned up and soldered securely you should be fine if it's running fine