How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Andrew Fraser Your Own Question
Andrew Fraser
Andrew Fraser, Landscaper
Category: Landscaping
Satisfied Customers: 57
Experience:  B.S. Landscape Horticulture, Master Pesticide Applicator, 27 Years Green Industry Exp.
Type Your Landscaping Question Here...
Andrew Fraser is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

What do i do if one of my zones on my sprinkler system just

Customer Question

what do i do if one of my zones on my sprinkler system just stays on after the timer is shut off
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Landscaping
Expert:  Andrew Fraser replied 1 year ago.

Hello there, my name is Andrew. How long has the zone been stuck on? Have you tried turning on a different zone to see if that stuck zone stops? Worst case, you can turn off the physical water valve until you can get the controller serviced.

Expert:  Andrew Fraser replied 1 year ago.

Unless someone was recently working on the valves, it is likely the controller or debris in the valve. The attached article doesn't take into consideration controller issues, but it does happen. This may help if it is debris.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

i opened the valve and cleaned everything and im unsure of the plunger on the soleniod

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

what about the solenoid would it make the zone keep running if it was bad

Expert:  Andrew Fraser replied 1 year ago.

Likely air in there now from cleaning...

Try this,

Air Trapped in the Valve:

The valves may have air trapped in them. A small bubble of air becomes trapped in the tiny water ports of the valve, this stops the water from flowing through the port. Since the water flowing through the port is what holds the valve diaphragm closed, the valve stays open.

1. Turn on the main water supply.

2. Now go to the individual valves and using the manual open & close control on the valve. The manual open & close control is either a lever on the valve (most often it is under the valve’s solenoid), or it may be a screw on the top of the valve bonnet. If it is a screw don’t fully remove it, just open it until water starts squirting out. Set it to open, wait a few seconds, then set back to closed. If the valve doesn’t close within a minute, try it again. It may take several tries to get the air bubble to “burp” itself out. Try tapping the valve to dislodge the air while the valve is open if needed. Note: old plastic valves may become brittle and crack when tapped, so if the valve is plastic and old don’t tap on it except as a last resort if the air doesn’t come out.

3. If that doesn’t fix the problem, you can almost always force the air out using the manual flow control on the valves. Unfortunately, some inexpensive valves do not have a flow control. The flow control is a handle, similar to what a manual valve has, that is on the top of the valve. It works just like a regular faucet, turn clockwise to close. Most flow controls have a hand operated flow control, others have a cross handle that is turned using a tool (pliers will work if you don’t have the special valve opening tool.) A few valves have a screw for the flow control that requires a screwdriver to turn. Try completely closing and then reopening the manual flow control on each valve. That should force the air out and fix the problem.

If not there, likely controller/wire issue...

Another common problem is lack of electrical signal (voltage) to the valve. To determine if the valve is receiving power, use a volt-ohm meter. From the irrigation controller, manually turn on the station you are troubleshooting. With the volt-ohm meter, check the voltage between the ground and the controller-station terminal. Your reading should be 24 volts AC (VAC). If it is not 24 VAC, you need to determine the cause-which is usually a blown fuse in the controller or in the controller's transformer.

Expert:  Andrew Fraser replied 1 year ago.

Just checking back... Any luck?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

where is the fuse ??? i have a kwikdail kd6 irritrol

Expert:  Andrew Fraser replied 1 year ago.

I'm not familiar with that one, but from what I can find it doesn't have a fuse but rather an internal breaker.

Here is some related context that may help. Now you didn't say your controller was showing a fault "fuse", but it it may be worth checking the following. Sounds like the the issue is the solenoid. Consider zone 5 your troubled zone...

the kwik-Dial controller or the KD6 has and internal circuit breaker that will skip the zone if there is a short detected. It does this to protect the circuitry. The reason it says fuse 5 is because it has detected a problem with valve (zone) #5. There is no fuse to replace. What you need to do is determine if you are having a problem with the wiring to valve #5 or the solenoid is shorting out on valve #5. Simply find your valve #5, and disconnect both the wires from the solenoid. Now turn on valve #5 and see if it still gives you the "fuse" display. If it does, then the problem is in the wires. If it doesn't, then you need to replace the solenoid. A solenoid is easy to replace, it simply will un-screw from the top of the valve, and you screw a new one on. Go to and this website will show you how to replace a solenoid.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

where do i rate you at

Expert:  Andrew Fraser replied 1 year ago.

How did you make out?

Thank you for sending in your question, and let me know if you have additional questions.



Related Landscaping Questions