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Blower stll not working despite new motor, resistor, relay,

contols, and all fuses good...
Blower stll not working despite new motor, resistor, relay, contols, and all fuses good kia spectra 2007
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11/21/2017
Dan
Dan, Technician
Category: Kia
Satisfied Customers: 25,969
Experience: Independent Shop Experience, 2 Year Automotive Diploma, & Access to Information Database
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Hello, my name is ***** ***** I'm here to help get your problem solved.

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This is going to require some testing. AT blower motor the blue/orange wire should have power and the black/red wire should have ground with switch in high position. Let me know which one is missing, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
red and black not showing continuity when i place other probe on metal
Customer reply replied 8 months ago
showing 12v on orange and blue

Check to see if black wire going to transistor has ground.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
good ground there

G​round the brown wire at pin 1 of connector going to controller with key on, that should turn on blower motor. Also check to see if yellow/black wire has voltage with key on. Let me know, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
yellow has voltagegrounding brown wire does activate blower

Check resistance on brown wire at pin 19 of other wire going to controller between controller and transistor, wire should have under .5 ohms resistance between the two points.

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It is a brown wire at controller and changes to a green/blue wire at transistor.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
don't see a green blue wire at transistori have red blue, black, and green

It is brown at controller and switches to green at transistor. So you need to check resistance between brown wire at pin 19 of controller connector and green wire at transistor, wire should have under 5 ohms resistance.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
showing 0 with key on and off

You need to check resistance, not voltage. Or we can do a more simple test...Unplug transistor and unplug controller. Jump green wire to red/blue wire at transistor then check to see if brown wire at pin 19 of controller has voltage. Let me know, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
do not see voltage on brown wire at pin 19 after jumping the two at transistor.may be a silly question but can i just run a new ground from brown

The brown wire is pin 19 on connector right? Now the same brown wire at pin 1 I had you originally ground.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
im just curious if i run a ground from the original brown wire not the pin 19 will that make it operational?

No that won't work, but now that I know you actually did use pin 19 run new wire from pin 19 to green wire at transistor and this should solve your problem. Let me know if you have questions, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
ok i was on wrong pin.4 ohm at pin 19 and green transistor

Hmm...sounds like we are running to a dead end, wiring seems to be fine so it sounds like either new transistor or controller is the problem. The green wire going to transistor is the control wire but manual doesn't say how it controls transistor, it would either be a power/ground variance. Monitor power while changing speed settings. Let me know if it has any voltage, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
green wite shows 12v at all settings

that sounds like a problem, how about with controller unplugged?

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
with 4wire disconnected at controller still shows 12v with the 20+ unconnected shows 0v

I think controller is the problem, it shouldn't show 12v at all times and we have proven wiring is good with testing. Let me know if you have questions, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
i have replaced the controller.is there a way to jerry rig it even if it just works on one speed? a bypass?

There is no bypass, closest thing you could do to a bypass is ground the brown wire at pin 1 which would force blower motor to stay in high position any time car is turned on. I think the new controller is the problem, you have replaced everything and we just proved wiring is the problem. Controller should not be sending 12v to transistor on green wire at all times.

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There is another test we can try. Unplug transistor and jump the red//black wire to the black wire, then blower should run with key in on position. Let me know, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
there were a few times in the last year it went out and banging on it lightly got it going.I will order another controller, and not doubting you, but i think the old one snd new one both good

Banging on controller?

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
definitely runs when i do that

I found some information on what the brown wire at pin 19 should be putting out. On low it should put out .5v n on high it should put on 4v, so fact it is putting out 12v at all times backs up my original thought on controller being problem. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
banging on blowerruns when i jump red and black with transistor out

That proves ground at transistor is good and wiring between transistor and blower is also good. But like I aid, brown wire at pin 19 shouldn't put out over 4v so fact it is putting out 12v would mean the controller is the problem. Sometimes new parts are bad off the shelf which doesn't make things any easier but seems to be the case here.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
Ok i will try that and get back with you.let me know if you think of anything else.could i also do a bypass for high speed just by leaving transistor out and bridging red and black?

Yes that would work too but blower will still come on any time key is turned on. Let me know if you have questions or how it turns out. Please do not forget to rate answer, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
can i still ask questions after i rate you or should i wait to rate when i put in new controller?

Yes you can continue to reply after rating but you can wait if you would like. Let me know how it goes, thanks.

Dan
Dan, Technician
Category: Kia
Satisfied Customers: 25,969
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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
no, you are great, Dan! Thank you. I'll go ahead and rate you then get back tomorrow after i source another controller. Think the dealer would have one on hand?Thanks so much,
Tim
Customer reply replied 8 months ago
New control did not get it working.

That is disappointing, are you still getting the 12v at all times to the transistor?

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To the yellow wire.

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Does it have voltage even if you unplug the controller?

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
no
Customer reply replied 8 months ago
everything else working perfectly. directional, ac, defrost, etc.

Diagram is saying wire that I'm telling you to test is green with a blue stripe, not yellow. Are you sure it is yellow? I just need to make sure we are testing the right wires.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
im testing the green one. fairly thin wire that goes into resistor

Things aren't making much sense at this point with the green wire showing 12v when it shouldn't go over 4v. Do you mind cutting the brown wire at controller so we can monitor voltage coming out of controller? It is the brown wire at in 19. Make sure to cut it far enough from connector so you can wire it together again if needed.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
can i do this in an hour or two? will you still be around? i need to take care of a few things and then get it in the garage out of the dark.

Ya that is fine, let me know how it goes. I'll be around, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
cut brown wire, reading about 5 volts.Thanks again!
Customer reply replied 8 months ago
maybe 4.5 or so volts

Good to hear, run a new wire from controller to resistor. Let me know how it goes, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
hahaha I just had a ah hah! moment and wast going for the wire to try that.thank you

Keep me updated, I think problem should be finally taken care of now.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
do i need to disconnect the green wire at the resistor for the bridge from brown?

Yes you do, so you will need to cut that wire also.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
thank you sir, ons moment

No problem, keep me updated.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
Still not activating.

Hmm...is the voltage at green wire going to transistor at least showing different voltages now when turning switch from low to high?

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
showing less than 1 volt let me check connections

It should be less then 1v in low and around 4v in high.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
now seeing spikes to 10v at brown wire. when jumped to the resistor does not come above 1v at the resistor or controller. have two resistors tried the other too.
Customer reply replied 8 months ago
1v even at high

Check pin condition on connector.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
connections at resistor are new. harness at controller seems to be in good shape.

Did you check female pin at connector going to controller? I feel like that might be the issue, try to wiggle around connector while monitoring voltage to see if that makes a difference.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
it definitely fluctuates as i move the brown wire at the connection. so try a new harness?

New harness or take a tiny screwdriver and try to push terminals together on connector so it makes a tighter fit with control panel. If that doesn't help then replace connector but you should be able to fix connection without replacing connector.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
tried pushing it in, could see that it was out more than others.still have 4-10v until i connect it to the resistor. then it immediately drops to less than 1v when connected.I pushed it in pretty snug. it doesn't seem to change anything.

That points toward a poor connection so next step would be to try and tighten up terminal where it connects to pin with a small screwdriver so it makes a tighter contact, I that doesn't help then replace connector. Let me know how it goes, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
Thank you so much again. I will get back with you after i replace the connector. Until I get another I will keep messing with this one.

You can also remove the pin from connector and replace he individual pin/terminal without replacing the whole connector. It can be a little bit of a pain but may be worth trying. Google "How to remove terminal from connector" and you should be able to find some good info.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
awesome, thank you

No problem, let me know how it goes. I'm getting offline, have a good night and happy Holiday.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
happy holiday to you too. talk to you soon and will have to compensate you again!

Thanks and don't worry about it. I'll talk to you tomorrow.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
I just wanted to let you know that I have MacGyvered it. I tried another harness and still got fluctuating voltage.I don't know if this will help anyone else, but I ordered a 40amp pulse width modulator and just drilled a little hole by the ignition for the knob.It is wired between the red and black wires that go into the resistor. I just left the green wire alone.With this pwm, I can turn it off or vary the speed with this new knob. All of the temperature, directional, and ac controls still work the same but now my blower final works and is adjustable.I rarely give up on anything like that but I'm curious what you think it may be since the connections on the brown wire are fine.

I was just thinking about you a couple days ago wondering how it turned out. This was a tough one, good to hear you were at least able to rig up a working switch. Thanks for update.

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