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Juan Crespo
Juan Crespo, Tech Trainer
Category: Kia
Satisfied Customers: 1526
Experience:  A.S.E. Master Technician, Advanced Level, Emissions - Asian, Domestic, & European
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Im still working on my 06 sorento3.5 auto.It will not run.I

Customer Question

Hi,Im still working on my 06 sorento3.5 auto.It will not run.I towed it to kia on a mechanic from just answers advice because he said its probably the computer and it had to be programmed by kia.Come to find out 06 is last year for plug and play.Does not need to be programmed by kia.Anyway kia said they would change ecm and all 3 coils for like 3 grand.I said Id tow it home and replace ecm with a good used one.That was 6 months ago.I ordered 2 ecm and still have same problem.# ***** sensors,2 cam sensors,etcetc.I need serious help.Im a good mechanic and im relentless but im lost PLEASEHELP.Voltages to crank and cam sensors are correct.I think problem lies in the coil,ignition area.Ive only got 5 volts to coils and ifs.It should be 12 or battery voltage.Ive checked every fuse and everything else I can think of.Can a kia mechanic Ive got a hyundai santa fe with same 3.5 motor that runs perfect for inspection purposes.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Kia
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I think ive got a wiring issue.Can someone possible send me a wiring diagram of the ignition system so I can see where coil gets its 12 volts from or any other ideas.Also the cruise light on dash stays on untill I turn key off.Its not suppose to
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

Hi there. First of all I like to clarify the fact that I can give you technical guidance, but that guidance won't mean anything unless you have the necessary diagnostic tools to follow my instructions.

The IFS gets system voltage on RUN or START from the ENG fuse (10A) through the Blue wire. Having stated that, with engine cranking, please check voltage at IFS connector Blue and Red wires and let me know what you find so we can continue.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Juan. I've hot most everything I need to work with you. Anything I don't have I will get. I'm a decent mechanic but om lost on this SUV. Ok. Both blue and red wires have 4.8 volts When engine cranks goes to no volts. I know this isn't normal
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

OK. That means we either have a huge voltage drop somewhere in the ignition circuit, or the IFS is internally shorted and it's pulling the voltage down. Disconnect the IFS and recheck voltages with engine cranking;

  • If voltage still low, check cable terminals and load test the battery.
    If battery tests OK, check starter for excessive current draw.
  • If voltage now OK (>10.5 Volts), replace IFS and restest.

Please let me know what you find.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Voltage on the red and blue fluctuate between five and 6 V when I turn the key to start the engine turns over and the voltage go to zero I have a brand-new IFShere and it does not make a difference only have 5 to 6V coming in And 5 to 6 going to the coils so I think Ifs is working
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

I don't understand what you're trying to tell me. Did you disconnect the IFS and measure voltage at the Blue and at the Red wires while the engine was cranking? If you did, then refer to my previous post. If you didn't then please reply telling me why.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok sorry. With ifs disconnected blue has 6 volts at run. Half a vote while starting Redwire has nothing Either way
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

OK. l addressed that possibility in my previous post "if voltage still low, check cable terminals and load test the battery". Did you do that? If the battery and the cables test out OK, then you'll have to trace the voltage drop from Battery positive to the ENG fuse.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Battery is new. I just replaced it. The old battery was still good. Just wanted to rule that out. The terminals are tight , also new. No corrosion
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

Ok. Let's forget the IFS for a moment. Take your voltmeter and measure voltage across the battery cable terminals (not on the posts) while a helper turns the ignition switch to START (engine cranking). Is the voltage more than 10.5 volts? If yes, go to the cabin fuse box at the end of the dash and measure voltage at the ENG fuse also with the engine cranking? Is it more than 10.5 volts? Please provide answers with voltage values only.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Sorry Juan. Il be back In town tom and hopefully back working on the car on Wednesday. I will check what you suggested then and get back with you. Thanks
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

I look forward to it.

Best Regards.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi juan,good and bad news.I found the ecm fuse inside fuse box was bad.I originally tested it wit a test light and both sides were hot but with a meter i realized one side had only 6 volts.Now I have spark on all cylinders..Half way there.I have no injector pulse.12 volts to one side but I dont think ecm is grounding it.I went to auto store and got a set of noids and will check tom for sure.Is it the crank or cam sensor that controls pulse?Im also a little concerned because with starting fluid it wont start.I had to pull the intake to get to the injectors so im squirting into the manifold..It kinda wants to start but wont catch.Il check the pulse with noids and get back with you tom.Thanks
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

I don't like the fact that there is spark, yet the engine won't start on starting fluid - that's an indication of a much more serious problem like valve timing being off.

Before doing anything else, I suggest checking the timing belt to make sure it has not jumped timing.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I tore the whole front of motor apart. Agsin To check timing. It's right on the money. I can check compression ?
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

I would recommend a leak-down test as a better way of detecting any combustion chamber leaks. Anyways, I'm attaching a graphic showing timing belt alignment marks for your reference.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi juan,The compression is the problem but Im not sure how.It does have spark and pulse but when I spray starting fluid it backfires thru the intake???I replaced heads and timing belt before this all happened.Put 20 miles on it then had this current problem.The timing marks are right on and have been since I replaced belt.Timings never been off.I don't get it???compression was between 90 and 120.Is there anything else besides timing that could do this?Would you guess bent valves?I don't know how this couldve happened,any ideas or where I need to go from here?thanks David
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

Backfiring through the intake means one or more of the intake valves are not closing flush on the seat, most probably because they are bent.

The only cure for this is to pull the heads and disassemble them completely to identify and correct any damage to valves, guides and seats. At the same time, make sure the piston rings are not stuck or damaged from a collapsed groove and the cylinder walls are not gouged or scratched.

At this time, you might look at getting a low-mileage used engine from one of your local salvage yards as a more cost-effective alternative.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I just don't understand bc the heads were totally rebuilt,new valves etc everything was new and the engine run perfect for 20 miles and the belt was never out of time.what is the correct compression for the 3.5?I guess il be pulling heads
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

I'm old enough to know it's better to disassemble and inspect than to look at it and speculate. As I said before, you might be better off at this time getting rid of this engine altogether and putting in a low-mileage one from your local salvage yard.