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Mike V.
Mike V., Technician
Category: Kia
Satisfied Customers: 25193
Experience:  I have 25 years experience working on cars. I am also a factory trained Subaru and Nissan Tech.
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Kia sephia: the rear brakes and a diagram..brake shoes..cylinder

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I have a 01 kia sephia and I would like to have a step by step procedure to change the rear brakes and a diagram of the brake drum with components to install correctly new brake shoes,wheel cylinder and new hardware on this vehicle. Any help? thanks. Chuck Varner p.s are these cars known for brake calipers in the front causing drag or should I look to the rubber brake hose that installs to the caliper? This car has no retaining screws in the rotor. Somebody must have left them out. Would this cause a drag problem? Should I buy the screws and install them?

HiCustomerThank you for choosing JA, I will do my very best to assist you with your concern.

1.Raise and suitably support rear of vehicle.
2.Remove rear wheels and release parking brake.
3.Using an impact driver, remove two mounting screws holding the drum and remove the brake drum.
If brake drum is difficult to remove, thread two 8 mm jacking bolts into two threaded holes provided on drum face and tighten evenly.
4.Remove top return spring.
5.Remove front and rear shoe spring clip and hold down pins.
6.Remove anti-rattle spring and adjuster spring.
7.Note position of operating lever while holding front shoe, then remove bottom return spring.
8.Disconnect parking brake cable from rear shoe by removing clip and washer.
9.Remove front and rear brake shoes.
10.Clean parts with a brake vacuum or solvent and inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace as necessary.
1.Using white brake grease, sparingly lubricate all brake shoe contact points:
A.Shoe-to-wheel cylinder contact points
B.Anchor sliding points
C.Backing plate-to-shoe contact points
2.Rest operating lever behind and on hub in approximate position as noted above in Removal.
3.Place rear brake shoe in position and connect parking brake cable to rear shoe with washer and clip.
4.Position front brake shoe in place and connect front and rear shoes together with bottom return spring.
5.Hold brake shoe assembly on backing plate, with operating lever between front and rear shoes, and insert hold-down pins through rear of backing plate and into each shoe.
6.Secure front and rear hold-down pins with spring clips.
7.Make sure operating lever is in place and install top return spring.
8.Install anti-rattle spring and adjuster spring.
9.Mount drum and install two mounting retaining screws.
10.Adjust brakes as required.
11.Install rear wheels, and tighten four nuts.

Tightening torque: 65~87 lb-ft (88~118 N·m, 9~12 kg-m)

1.Raise and suitably support rear of vehicle.
2.Remove rear wheels and release parking brake.
3.Using an impact driver, remove two mounting screws holding brake drum. Remove drum.
If brake drum is difficult to remove, thread two 8 mm jacking bolts into two threaded holes provided on drum face and tighten evenly.
4.Inspect wheel cylinders for brake fluid leaks.

5.Measure lining thickness. Replace both linings if either is less than specification.

Minimum lining thickness: 0.04 in (1.0 mm)
6.Inspect lining for cracks, uneven wear or oil contamination. Repair or replace as necessary.
7.Measure drum inside diameter. Replace drum if diameter is greater than specification.

Maximum diameter: 7.87 in (200 mm)
8.Inspect drums for cracks, grooves or uneven wear. Resurface or replace as necessary.

9.Verify new or repaired drum-to-shoe contact.

1.Remove the brake shoe assembly.
2.Disconnect the brake line using a flare nut wrench. Be prepared to catch escaping fluid.
3.Remove two wheel cylinder mounting bolts. Remove the wheel cylinder.
4.Remove dust boots from each end of the cylinder.
5.Remove all internal parts by pushing them through the cylinder body.
6.Remove the rubber cap, bleeder screw and steel ball.
7.Thoroughly clean the cylinder bore inlet and bleeder ports with isopropyl alcohol. Inspect for corrosion, scoring or ridges.
Replace the entire wheel cylinder assembly if a problem is found.
1.Make sure that all parts are clean and all cleaning solvents have been removed.
2.Coat all internal parts with clean brake fluid.
3.Install internal parts as shown in diagram.
4.Install steel ball, bleeder screw and rubber cap.
5.Install dust boots over each end of the cylinder.
6.Mount cylinder on backing plate and install the two bolts.

Tightening torque: 7~9 lb-ft (10~13 N·m, 1.0~1.3 kg-m)
7.Connect brake line. Tighten the brake line flare nuts.

Tightening torque: 9~16 lb-ft (12~22 N·m, 1.3~2.2 kg-m)
8.To install brake shoe assembly.


To address the front brake issue. Normally what happens is the front brake pads get hung up in the caliper frames,this causes the front brakes to drag. Take the pads out and clean up the brackets so the pads can move again and this should resolve any drag you may have.

As for the screws in the front rotors. These are only there to hold the rotors on during the cars ride down the assembly line and don't matter once the brake calipers and brackets are installed. Hope this helps!

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Great explanation. I couldn't open the images though. Could you please send them again and I'll get you paid. Thanks. Chuck Varner

OK, I am going to try and send just the images in the order they appear. They really aren't that great and I think the one image I did get to you will probably help more then these:





Mike V. and 2 other Kia Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Got em. Thanks again. Chuck Varner
You are very welcome and thank you for the accept!
Let me know if you need further assistance!
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Hello. I just got a call from my brother about his Kia again. Same symptom. He said it feels like the front wheel is dragging it takes more acceleration than normal to get the car to move. I have replaced everything On the front brakes. New rotors,calipers brake pads, both rubber brake hoses,new pads, new hardware. On the back I replaced both drums,new shoes, new hardware, new wheel cylinders. I wonder if he has a bad wheel bearing in the front. I just spoke to him on the phone. He says when he is driving down the road and applies the brake it feels like it grabs real hard then it quits. Next time he puts on the brake it might not do it again. The dragging problem I described earlier is causing his gas mileage to be cut in half. He also described another symptom that he hadn't told me about before. If he comes to a stop. Then turns the wheel hard then in either forward or reverse he hears a clunking noise. He might have a few problems going on hear. He drives this car to Pittsburgh PA. every day to work about 90 miles round trip. It has about 175000 mile on it. I told him that's an awful lot of miles for a Kia but he likes it. The brake problem is still driving me crazy. I didn't put a new master cylinder on it. Do the kia's have proportioning valves on them. If so where would it be located. Any help would be great. Thanks. Chuck Varner
Does the car pull when he is braking or does it stop straight?
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Stops straight.
Ok, I would check the brake light switch for starters. It may be applying the brakes on him if it is out of adjustment. This will cause the front brakes to grab and over heat.
With the banging sound turning the wheel, I would suspect a possible ball joint or strut bearing plate banging.
I will see if I can find a diagram of the proportioning valve for you and reply with it.
I just don't think that is the issue if it is stopping straight.
Also, if there is no howling or growling noise, a wheel bearing is unlikely. I have also seen master cylinders cause the front brakes to overheat and lock at times. It is rare, but it does happen.
Mike V. and 2 other Kia Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Thanks for the diagram. I have been meaning to ask you. I owned a radiator a/c and automotive repair shop for 15 years but I had to shut it down 3 years ago because the steel mill in our town got bought out by a foreign company and he cut the workforce by 1200 men and I was one of them. I had 25 years in that mill. Any way I have a snap-on scanner that my cartridges are good up to 2000 and I was wondering if you knew of anybody that sells the updated cartridges? I don't need it to cover to 2010 maybe a couple years older like 2008. If you know of any place or anybody that does let me know. My email [email protected] And if you ever need cooling system advise or a/c advise let me know I'll do the best I can to help you. My grandfather started the first radiator shop in our little town back in 1946. So I have 38 years experience. Thanks again for all your help. If you email me I'll give you my cell number. I don't know how secure this site is. Thanks. Have a happy holiday season. Chuck Varner
I don't really know anyone who sells the cartridges,I would suggest ebay though, might just get a deal.
Personal contact is not allowed on the site.
You have a great Holiday Season as well Chuck. Sorry to hear about the job by the way.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Thanks. One more question about the kia. The brake switch you are referring to is the one under the dash that the brake pedal comes in contact with. Right? I don't know if this car has anti-lock brakes or not. If it doesn't This might not be the problem? I'm going to his house to check it out this morning. Thanks again. Chuck
Yes, it is on the pedal bracket. Make sure there is no pressure on it forcing the pedal on.
It should have an abs light on the dash if it has the abs.
If the brake switch isn't the problem,you may have to drive it until it gets hot, then back the nuts off that hold the master cylinder on. If the brakes free up after you do that, replace the master cylinder.
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Thanks again.
No problem at all man! Good luck with it and give me a yell if you need more help with it!