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Matt, Engineer
Category: Jeep
Satisfied Customers: 21625
Experience:  Honors degree in Mechanical Engineering, worked 8 years as a Formula 1 engine engineer.
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Wrangler: My jeep is leeching at low speed. 15 to 20 mph. It's

Customer Question

My jeep is leeching at low speed. 15 to 20 mph. It's like it's trying to go into 4WD. What could do this.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Jeep
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I think it's in the EBS.
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.
Hello do you have any check engine or other fault lights on?if not then I'd say that this sounds like a vacuum leak though to get the car to kangeroo like thisSo if you check for an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running. Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattenedpiece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
That makes sense except for the fact that the rpm is steady and it feels like the brakes are being applied on the right side front. I will check the vacuum lines anyway.
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.
OK thanks for the extra information I'd suggest pulling the ABS / ESP fuse ( J6 location in the fusebox) alternatively you can disable the ESP and leave the ABS as follows:1:put the Transfer case into the 4h position2: Turn the steering wheel until it is centered and the wheels are pointed straight ahead3: Cycle the Ignition key off to on4: Wait approximately five seconds for the system bulb check5: Turn and hold the steering wheel one half turn to the right(clockwise)6: press and hold the ESP OFF button for seven seconds(i believe a chime sounds)7: Turn the steering wheel back center, and turn and hold an additional one half turn to the left(counter clockwise)8: Press and hold the ESP OFF for seven seconds9: turn the steereing wheel back to center10: Press and hold the ESP OFF button for seven seconds11: Cycle the ignition key to offAfter performing the ESP disable procedure correctly, ESP OFF will be displayed in the odometer for app. 12 seconds each time the ignition is moved to ON. Repeating the ESP disable procedure will re-enable normal ESP operations
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I pulled the J6 breaker. Problem went away. Should I reinstall fuse and perform the ESP disable procedure to isolate the issue. I'm assuming if I perform the procedure and the problem persists it's the fuse causing it.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Reinstalling the fuse and going through the procedure once turned the ESP system back on. Did it again and the problem persisted so, I assume the fuse is the issue. But, it could be the wiring harness to the front brake? Thoughts?
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.
Hello pulling the fuse disables the ABS and the ESP systems so if re-installing the fuse and then disabling the ESP doesn't fix the issue then its likely to be an ABS fault with ABS systems 99% of the time its a problem with one of the wheel speed sensors and I'd first check the connections at all four corners first for any signs of corrosion or chafed wiring.The sensor is located in the wheel hub so you'll have to remove each wheel in turn to inspect them all.Also check that the toothed wheel that the sensor points to is clean and free of any can check each sensor's function by plugging the two output wires into an AC voltmeter and spinning the wheel quite quickly, you should get a voltage signal that increases with rev's. Its possible that the fault is only a bad connection to one of the wheel sensors.This may be remedied by removing each wheel in turn and unplugging each sensor and cleaning the contacts with a squirt of electrical contact cleaner. Then refitting.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thanks I will check those next.
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.
good luckjust get back to me on this post
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will.
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.
Hido you still need help?Bear in mind that the site takes a deposit from you at the beginning and this is held by the site until you rate my answer at which point the cash is split between the site and the expert. I am only paid for my work on this question if you rate my answer, using the star system at the top of the screen. Please do not forget! Thank you