I have a 97 jaguar xk8 that changed the coolant on my low coolant light is coming on every now and then didnt no if im

Hello and welcome, Super mechanic here. Thank you for trusting us with your concern. I will do my best to help you with your question.

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****You have the hit happy face or a high rating for me to get paid for the answer.*****

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If you need any more on it just let me know. Thanks

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About your vehicle.

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There has been a service bulletin for that type of concern. Here is what it states.

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Cooling System - Low Coolant Warning Lamp ON

303-14

DATE
2/98

V8 XJ Series/XK8

MODEL
1997 MY-ON XKB Range
1998 MY-ON V8 XJ Series VIN
001001-ON
812256-ON

Low Coolant Level - Warning Lamp Illuminated

Issue:

When a new vehicle is factory-filled with antifreeze solution, small pockets of air may remain trapped in the cooling system. On a new vehicle, these pockets of air may take some considerable time to be purged, resulting in a gradual drop in the coolant level. This process may eventually lead to illumination of the coolant warning lamp by the low level sensor located in the coolant reservoir.

Once the coolant level has dropped, it is also possible that the captive float which actuates the low level sensor may stick in the down position, leaving a warning on even after the cooling system has been refilled.

Action:

When investigating a customer complaint of low coolant level warning light remaining on proceed as follows:

A.	TOPPING-UP THE COOLING SYSTEM.

The following procedure assumes that only a minor top-up of the coolant is required - a maximum of 1 quart of coolant. Any causes of major leakage must be repaired before continuing.

1.	With the engine cold, remove the pressure cap from the coolant reservoir. Check the pressure cap seal - replace if necessary. Visually check the coolant level. If low, continue with the procedure below.
2.	If the coolant level is below the bottom of the filler neck, top up with Jaguar Antifreeze D542 (diluted 50:50 with clean water) until the coolant rises to the bottom of the filler neck.
3.	Start the engine and allow it to run at idling speed. The coolant level may fall in the coolant reservoir. With the engine still running, immediately top up the coolant to the bottom of the filler neck.
4.	Before the coolant temperature has a chance to increase, fully tighten the pressure cap on the coolant reservoir.
5.	Before stopping the engine, check that the coolant warning lamp is off.
B.	Coolant level sensor - FLOAT STICKING
1.	If the coolant warning lamp remains on after the above procedure, stop the engine but return the ignition switch to the "run" position. 2. Check if the captive float, located at the right hand rear corner of the coolant reservoir, is stuck in its lowest position. The float is captive on a tube, which houses the level sensor, attached to the bottom of the coolant reservoir. 3. Use a light to illuminate the interior of the reservoir, and use a long probe to carefully check that the float is free to move. 4. If the float is stuck, or does not move freely, fit a replacement reservoir. Always perform procedures A and B above before replacing the level sensor or complete reservoir. If the warning lamp remains on with the reservoir full of coolant, check that the float is free to move, then proceed with normal diagnosis for an electrical fault in the warning lamp circuitry.

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****You have the hit happy face or a high rating for me to get paid for the answer.*****

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That would not make the low coolant light come on.

Normally there a few follow ups but I'm not sure of what they would consider questions that are much different in the original posts, that may qualify as new ones. You can follow up at anytime.
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Let me post the steps for a drive cycle, which will reset the paramiters for the emission systems anyway. Thanks



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Completing the Drive Cycle successfully one (1) time should reset most drive cycle monitors to a "Ready" status. However, there are "two trip" monitors, which require that the drive cycle be successfully completed two (2) times, to achieve a "Ready" status. Furthermore, systems which use averaging, may require the drive cycle to be completed more than 2 times.

Verify the status of the readiness monitors with the appropriate function of your scan tool.

NOTE: Certain vehicles have known OBDII Readiness issues. Please be sure to review TSB's for special circumstances and or exceptions to readiness monitor resetting procedures.

Before Beginning the Drive Cycle
Check the status of the Readiness Monitors, check for DTC's, correct faults, clear DTC's before beginning the Drive Cycle.

Begin Drive Cycle
The vehicle should be driven approximately 7.5 miles within a period of approx. 23 minutes (1372 seconds) from a cold start. However, due to manufacture variations, it is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a "Ready" status. Operate the throttle smoothly to obtain best results. Do not turn the ignition off during the drive cycle.

CAUTION: Obey all traffic laws and drive in a safe manner!

NOTE: Extreme driving conditioning such as very high/low temperatures, rough roads and high altitudes may prevent some monitors from attaining a "Ready" status.

Step 1	(Engine Cold) Start engine, idle 20 seconds. Accelerate gradually and drive at 20-25 mph for 1 minute, varying speed.
Step 2	Accelerate gradually to 32 mph within 35 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 40 seconds.
Step 3	Accelerate at part throttle to 25 mph in 10 seconds. Cruise at 17-25 mph for 15 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 57 mph in 45 seconds. Cruise at 50-56 mph for 1 minute. Decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 40 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.
Step 4	Accelerate at part throttle to 36 mph and maintain for 10 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.
Step 5	Accelerate to 30 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 20 seconds.
Step 6	Accelerate to 36 mph inXXXXXat 35 mph for 20 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle 5 seconds.
Step 7	Accelerate gradually to 26 mph and decelerate to 0 within 40 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.
Step 8	Accelerate to 27 mph in 40 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 25 seconds.
Step 9	Accelerate to 26 mph in 15 seconds, maintain speed for 10 seconds, decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.
Step 10	Accelerate to 23 mph in 20 seconds, decelerate to 0.5 mph in 10 seconds (no complete stop). Accelerate to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 35 seconds.
Step 11	Accelerate gradually to 34 mph in 45 seconds. Vary speed between 34 and 19 mph for 2 minutes. Decelerate from 25 to 0 mph in 25 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.
Step 12	Accelerate to 29 mph in 15 seconds, decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 45 seconds. Idle for 30 seconds.
Step 13	Accelerate gradually to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 50 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 27 mph and back to 0 mph within 55 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.
Step 14	Accelerate to 24 mph and back to 0 mph within 18 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 22 mph and back to 0 mph within 50 seconds. Idle for 8 seconds.
Step 15	Accelerate gradually to 30 mph within 50 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 25 seconds.
Step 16	Accelerate to 23 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds.
Step 17	Repeat steps 1 - 16 once again. Recheck the status of the "Readiness Monitors".

NOTE: Remember, clearing DTC's or interrupting power to the ECM after the readiness monitors have been reset to "Ready" will require that the Drive Cycle be repeated.

Completing the Drive Cycle successfully one (1) time should reset most drive cycle monitors to a "Ready" status. However, there are "two trip" monitors, which require that the drive cycle be successfully completed two (2) times, to achieve a "Ready" status. Furthermore, systems which use averaging, may require the drive cycle to be completed more than 2 times. It is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a "Ready" status.

End Drive Cycle