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George H.
George H., Hyundai Technician
Category: Hyundai
Satisfied Customers: 18829
Experience:  Hyundai Gold certified, ASE Master tech 15+ years
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The vehicle is aligned! Sort of. Carx could not move the

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Hi George, The vehicle is aligned!
Sort of. Carx could not move the bolts and misc needed to adjust the rear due to rust and didn't want to snap anything.
They were open to aligning if I brought it back to them after I free up the problem areas.
Is this going to be something I can manage to get "unstuck"
They said the back tires are just a bit angled in, but equally so.
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
This is for a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 4WD.

Great! one end down. If I remember the rears are through bolts, I would get a new set from Hyundai. You can soak them for a week in PB but with the rust you have on this vehicle I doubt that will do it Click here Plan on them breaking when you try to loosen them and be ready when they do. Mark the positions of the control arm before you start and work them tight and loose a little at a time to see if they free up. You might get lucky if you soaked them for a week or so before hand. Also I would have the rear raised so the tires are hanging free, many times the little flanges on the control arm will bend when you try to turn the bolt to adjust. Being free takes a little strain off them. If you get the nut off then hit the bolt to try and drive the washer out a little so you can put your impact on it and spin it in the tube to break it out.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Thanks George.
This vehicle continues to be an adventure.
I will have to stick my head under the back end tonight to take a look.
Where are these bolts located? Will I be able to swing a 2 foot breaker bar to get some leverage?
If not a breaker bar, what's the tool of choice?
I have not had the pleasure of working on the control arms on the back side, so I can't fully picture what I'm dealing with yet, why they're marked before hand, the flanges, etc.

It is not that they are tight so you won;'t need a breaker. You can snap them with a 3/8 drive wrench handle. That is why the shop didn't go further. You can feel them as you turn, if you have to put more torque on them before they will turn you know they will snap so you stop and be sure you have a backup plan. The bolts have large offset washers like in the link I posted and are at the inboard end of the control arms. Imaging a steering rack in the differential and these are the tie rods.

Once you see them you will understand why you want to scribe marks to be able to put them back in the same place once you get the bolts out. That link I sent requires you extend the adjustment slots by grinding them with a rotary file. The factory ones do not so you will need to get factory bolts unless you can make the slot longer.

Do you know what the rear readings are?

Do you know what the rear readings are?

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
I don't know how much things are off on the back, I was just told it was minor but equal on both sides.
I'm not sure I understand the part about modifying the slots.
The product listing you sent says something similar to what you said the slots will have to be adjusted.
This can be avoided by getting a genuine Hyundai part?
I was hoping to loosen (or break the current nuts), then slide in the part you recommended.
Sounds like there might be more to it. (something needs to be adjusted, something needs to be marked, something might move in the process, etc)
Maybe my best move is to go back to CarX with bolts and tell them to go ahead and break them if needed and then install these replacements.

Anytime you get an alignment ask for the before and after readings. They should be doing this on the repair order or printing them and attaching it to the order.

Yes the Specprod parts require that you elongate the slots to get full travel, they have additional adjustment along with a more robust design that the factory ones but a set of factory will work as well.

If you break the nuts off and drive the bolts out the control arm will move. This is why you mark the position of the arm on the frame so you can put it back with the new bolts and you won't be off more than you were to start with. The alignment shop will set the final position but you don't want to wear out a tire edge on the way to the shop. CarX will charge you to install the bolts. It is your call if you want to give it a shot, rusty bolt removal can be tough and if you don;'t have all the tools necessary and available to get them out it might be worth it.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
I have no experience with this part of the car so it's challenging to identify all of what you've said.
If I have a hyundai set of bolts, is my only concern marking the position of the control arm (and breaking the the bolt loose)?
After that slide in the new set, put some pressure on the arm to get it back to the mark, tighten it up and drive to the shop?

Look at the offset washer on the bolt and see how it rides on the little flanges on the control arm. The washer fits between those and if you loosen the nut too much will ride up over them. If you decide to do this make sure the washer is between the flanges before you tighten the nut so you don't crush them. Also look at how the washer moving the flanges as you turn the bolt moves the entire control arm and pushes the knuckle in or out. You mark the current position of the inner end of the control arm on the frame with a metal scribe so you can line it up at that point after you put the new bolt in. You line it up by getting the nut snug then turning the bolt same as if you are setting the alignment of the wheel. You are aligning the control arm to the mark you scribed rather than number on a machine

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
I'm going to order the Hyundai bolts and nuts unless the are crazy expensive.
I currently have some paper towels soaked with Evaporust wrapped around the bolts and kept from drying with saran wrap and magnets.
After a day or two of that I'll apply some PB for another couple days.
I think you said earlier that if the nut is going to move you'll feel it happening OR you'll feel nothing and it's a sign to stop or you'll break the nut.
If that's accurate, I think I'll have the new bolts in hand and give it a shot on the weekend so that I have time to deal with it of something unexpected happens.
Best case is that the nuts with rust disolved and lubricated move and I can just take it back to Carx to have them finish.
I'll try and find some vids on this on youtube so I can better understand the parts and process.

Sounds like a plan. If you can get the nuts loose back them out til they are flush with the bolt end and see if you can drive the bolt through so the washer gets above the little flanges on the control arm then turn the bolt with a six point socket. Try not to strip the bolt heads. Work it back and forth to get the rust in the sleeve moving then you can be sure they will be able to use the bolt to move the control arm. If the bolt gets too beat up during the process drive it all the way out of the sleeve and install the new ones. You will probably need the new bolts in any case but after days of rust treatment they sometimes give use a surprise and work as designed.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
I'm having trouble finding the genuine Hyundai Part #, is that what I want times 4 for both sides?
Part 55260?
Separate nut needed for each too?

Yes that will work. You only need one for each side plus a nut for each bolt.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
I thought I saw two per bolts per side when I was underneath, or is only one used for the alignment?
Before I start torquing on the nut this weekend, it is the top or bottom nut?
Nothing special with the nut, that goes with this bolt?

Just one bolt with the offset washer per side. I don't understand top or bottom, it is the nut that is on the bolt with the offset washer.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Isn't it something like this?
I've been working on two nuts configured similarly to the image, one above the other, (probably 21 mm) on each side of the vehicle.

One is for camber and the other is toe. I thought you were just doing toe but I see now you are correct. If they are all frozen then you do need four bolts.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Thanks for confirming.
I'll find out this weekend if the rust treatments were successful.
I don't know if the paper towels soaked in Evaporust is working, but the strong little magnets from harbor freight have held the saran wrap over it since last weekend and it's held during driving so it's had the best possible chance to loosen up.

That is the best you can do for now. Hope they come free like they lived in Arizona

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
I thought these parts would be easy to find (since it seems like they're rusted solid and would break a lot), but no they take 5 days to get here.
I'll try a couple more dealers.
If I can find an auto parts store that sells OEM, is that going to mean they are a duplicate of what I need?
I didn't quite follow why the Amazon ones which match the vehicle aren't ready to go in as is.
Their diameter is to large and requires the hole on the frame to be enlarged or something?
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
The dealer asked if I needed all the parts, I got a full quote for bolt, nut and two washers that go with each nut.
"Only" $145.62 if I use those parts.
Maybe the washers are just fine and it's just bolt and nut that could be junked if still rusted.

I don't know of any source for these except the SpecProd ones that I linked. The washer is larger on those so the slot has to be elongated with a grinder so there is more range of adjustment than with the originals.

Make sure what you are ordering, you should not need the washer on the nut side and the one on the bolt head is permanent I think so it should not be a separate part number. The dealer should be able to provide a print with the parts and numbers marked.

I would try to see if the nuts will turn, sometimes they can be surprising.

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
I think I'll see if they move.
If all I'm going it trying to see if the nut moves, I don't need to really do much do I? Just get a socket and ratchet and maybe some leverage and see if it moves with 70 lb or torque or not?
Will they spin if not held on the other side?

I don't know if I would go to 70 ft lbs just tighten it a little then loosen it and work back and forth. If you can get it turning a little just keep working back and forth til the nut cuts new threads in the rust. The bolt is probably frozen in the sleeve so try turning the head, the washer is keyed to the bolt so it will move the position of the control arm unless you can punch the bolt out a bit to get above the flanges on the frame. Try not to move the position of the arm too much, if you can get the nut off then punch the bolt out a little then you can work the bolt head back and forth with a liberal application of PB from the nut side to get the bolt free in the sleeve. If you can do that reuse the bolt. Just put it back together using the marks you made to get it back in the same place.

George H. and 3 other Hyundai Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 8 days ago.
Sorry, it got got busy, raining and cold here. I think I'll try and work those bolts next weekend when it warms a bit and I have more time.