Hyundai Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Great! one end down. If I remember the rears are through bolts, I would get a new set from Hyundai. You can soak them for a week in PB but with the rust you have on this vehicle I doubt that will do it Click here Plan on them breaking when you try to loosen them and be ready when they do. Mark the positions of the control arm before you start and work them tight and loose a little at a time to see if they free up. You might get lucky if you soaked them for a week or so before hand. Also I would have the rear raised so the tires are hanging free, many times the little flanges on the control arm will bend when you try to turn the bolt to adjust. Being free takes a little strain off them. If you get the nut off then hit the bolt to try and drive the washer out a little so you can put your impact on it and spin it in the tube to break it out.
It is not that they are tight so you won;'t need a breaker. You can snap them with a 3/8 drive wrench handle. That is why the shop didn't go further. You can feel them as you turn, if you have to put more torque on them before they will turn you know they will snap so you stop and be sure you have a backup plan. The bolts have large offset washers like in the link I posted and are at the inboard end of the control arms. Imaging a steering rack in the differential and these are the tie rods.
Once you see them you will understand why you want to scribe marks to be able to put them back in the same place once you get the bolts out. That link I sent requires you extend the adjustment slots by grinding them with a rotary file. The factory ones do not so you will need to get factory bolts unless you can make the slot longer.
Do you know what the rear readings are?
Anytime you get an alignment ask for the before and after readings. They should be doing this on the repair order or printing them and attaching it to the order.
Yes the Specprod parts require that you elongate the slots to get full travel, they have additional adjustment along with a more robust design that the factory ones but a set of factory will work as well.
If you break the nuts off and drive the bolts out the control arm will move. This is why you mark the position of the arm on the frame so you can put it back with the new bolts and you won't be off more than you were to start with. The alignment shop will set the final position but you don't want to wear out a tire edge on the way to the shop. CarX will charge you to install the bolts. It is your call if you want to give it a shot, rusty bolt removal can be tough and if you don;'t have all the tools necessary and available to get them out it might be worth it.
Look at the offset washer on the bolt and see how it rides on the little flanges on the control arm. The washer fits between those and if you loosen the nut too much will ride up over them. If you decide to do this make sure the washer is between the flanges before you tighten the nut so you don't crush them. Also look at how the washer moving the flanges as you turn the bolt moves the entire control arm and pushes the knuckle in or out. You mark the current position of the inner end of the control arm on the frame with a metal scribe so you can line it up at that point after you put the new bolt in. You line it up by getting the nut snug then turning the bolt same as if you are setting the alignment of the wheel. You are aligning the control arm to the mark you scribed rather than number on a machine
Sounds like a plan. If you can get the nuts loose back them out til they are flush with the bolt end and see if you can drive the bolt through so the washer gets above the little flanges on the control arm then turn the bolt with a six point socket. Try not to strip the bolt heads. Work it back and forth to get the rust in the sleeve moving then you can be sure they will be able to use the bolt to move the control arm. If the bolt gets too beat up during the process drive it all the way out of the sleeve and install the new ones. You will probably need the new bolts in any case but after days of rust treatment they sometimes give use a surprise and work as designed.
Yes that will work. You only need one for each side plus a nut for each bolt.
Just one bolt with the offset washer per side. I don't understand top or bottom, it is the nut that is on the bolt with the offset washer.
One is for camber and the other is toe. I thought you were just doing toe but I see now you are correct. If they are all frozen then you do need four bolts.
That is the best you can do for now. Hope they come free like they lived in Arizona
I don't know of any source for these except the SpecProd ones that I linked. The washer is larger on those so the slot has to be elongated with a grinder so there is more range of adjustment than with the originals.
Make sure what you are ordering, you should not need the washer on the nut side and the one on the bolt head is permanent I think so it should not be a separate part number. The dealer should be able to provide a print with the parts and numbers marked.
I would try to see if the nuts will turn, sometimes they can be surprising.
I don't know if I would go to 70 ft lbs just tighten it a little then loosen it and work back and forth. If you can get it turning a little just keep working back and forth til the nut cuts new threads in the rust. The bolt is probably frozen in the sleeve so try turning the head, the washer is keyed to the bolt so it will move the position of the control arm unless you can punch the bolt out a bit to get above the flanges on the frame. Try not to move the position of the arm too much, if you can get the nut off then punch the bolt out a little then you can work the bolt head back and forth with a liberal application of PB from the nut side to get the bolt free in the sleeve. If you can do that reuse the bolt. Just put it back together using the marks you made to get it back in the same place.