Hyundai Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi Dom,When you turn the key,m does it crank but not start, or does the engine not even crank?
Thanks. And the cables (positive particularly) weren't disassembled at all where one lead may have come off etc, just loosened and removed right?
Can we hook up some jumper cables or a charger to it just to make sure the battery hasn't run down while it was sitting?
It really shouldn't if you didn't do anything related. Unhooking the battery in itself won't do anything to the security even if left a while.I remember the older ones (like 12-13) had issues with the transmission controller causing a no-start condition, but I think by 15 that should have long since been resolved.You didn't do anything that might be related while working on it did you (electrical work of any kind, unplugging things etc)? No risk of any fuses having blown? Do you have a different key to try just in case?
Only other thing I can think of would be to double check your connections... make sure your battery cables didn't corrode up a bit while being off or anything like that, double check the ground where it anchors to the chassis too, not just on the battery itself.
Thanks. If the cables are all tight and intact, none came loose while apart etc, ground is good, fuses intact and battery is assumed good at this point, the next stop is going to be getting a full code read done of all systems to see if the computer shows any faults. Again there isn't any real reason for it to do this from just having the battery unhooked; I actually have a 2014 Focus on my lot (that I can't give away) that's been here since early 2014... I've gone through three batteries including the original from just sitting unused and never had any issue with no crank afterward. Something must have happened either for the pats system to freak out (scan tool required at that point anyway) or something unrelated failed, if it wasn't anything you had worked on.
Yeah you need a full scan tool not an OBD reader. That will only tell you if there is an engine management issue, and since you have no crank the engine management doesn't even come into it yet.
Just what you've done.... battery was disconnected for however long it was disconnected, whatever repairs you made, and battery was reconnected to a no start condition.It's possible the pats system just freaked out from being unhooked a long time, but it isn't exactly common. In any event you would need the factory scan tool to correct it anyway.
Always double check your work! I couldn't help but think there was something related there :)
It's all good Dom. It's Friday :)
Hi Dom,The air bag codes are stored in non-volatile memory so there isn't any quick way to reset them like unhooking the battery. You will need a scan tool with Ford SRS support through at least 2013 in order to go in there and clear the codes out if they did not clear automatically when the fault was resolved (very few SRS codes will do that).
Sort of. Those companies are resetting hard faults... collision reports, crash data etc. If that is what you have, then yes. If you only have a circuit fault, bad sensor, bad bag fault etc, then a scan tool makes more sense to do. If you have a collision report (not just a circuit fault from a bad sensor or deployed bag etc), then you would have to send it to one of those places... dealerships can not even remove hard collision faults. The reason for this is that by design those faults are unable to be erased even via scan tool in order to protect the occupant. The point being, if a collision was hard enough to deploy multiple bags and even at dual stage, the drivers that fire them are no longer trustworthy. They send a ton of current all at once and often damage themselves in the process to insure the bags deploy. So the hard fault is set so that the ecu would be replaced to insure good drivers and no problems if the bags need to deploy again.
Sending the ecu to one of those places they manually erase the otherwise non-eraseable memory so it can be used again, regardless of whether it is safe or not.
That said... if you only need a circuit fault erased etc (or don't know what the fault is), it is more logical to take it to the dealer or someone with an SRS compatible scan tool to erase it first. If you determine there is a hard fault from a significant collision and the ecu needs to be sent out for repair, then it is your call whether you would want to send it out for erasing or buy a new one.
B0090 is for a left front sensor fault, B0095 is for a right front sensor fault.
These are not hard faults... if the problem (be it broken sensor or wiring issue etc) is resolved, it should erase with a normal SRS compatible scan tool. It would not need to be sent out for those codes.
The only data I have for front impact sensors on a 15 focus is CP9Z14B004A for both front sensors.
I would probably take it in to Ford and have them check it out... reason being we've seen a few of the recent Focuses having transmission issues similar to that which were covered under a recall. Best to make sure that isn't it first.
I believe it was a clutch pack kit they put in there.
We have had three of them traded in with the shuddering on accel and all three were resolved with the recall.... however I believe the first one they actually replaced the entire transmission as it was before the service parts were available.
I'm not sure if the wiring is factory equipped on those (Regardless of option installation) or not unfortunately... I only deal with them used :)
Start with your fuses/bulbs of course... if the tail lights didn't work at all (just didn't notice before), check in the rear area for any damage to wires, lamps being unplugged etc.
If the front markers are working, more than likely there is something unplugged or crimped etc, assuming no bulb/etc issues.