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Reggie Whiddon
Reggie Whiddon, Auto Mechanic
Category: Hyundai
Satisfied Customers: 162
Experience:  Lead tech at river regions auto
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1999 accent stalling when at stop lights. Been chasing my

Customer Question

1999 accent stalling when at stop lights. Been chasing my tail. replaced fuel filter, fuel regulator, Throttle position sensor and crank position sensor. I had fluctuating timing. no codes have been triggered. noticed when the engine is off and key is on, I hear a solenoid chatter coming from transmission. In addition to this when you advance the throttle it stops. Only does this in Reverse and Drive no other positions. I have ensured that there was no fuel in the purge vent and canister.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Hyundai
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The IAC is operating normal and is clean(No carbon build up) Idle is smooth. there will be a short shutter and the engine stops. Fires right back up and drives fine. Does not matter what type of load you have on the engine. A/C or electrical.
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

Let me ask you when it shutters and stops does it feel like you were driving a manual transmission and came to stop and forot to depress the clutch pedal? If so the torque converter clutch is most likely sticking . Your description of the problem and your detailed inspection results only solidify this further, if you have a switch to disable overdrive or if your shifter has 2 D one with a circle around it in other words some method of disabling overdrive do so and test drive.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Not as violent of a shutter like forgetiing to depress a clutch pedal. what happens is you will be stopped, engine idling and car in gear. I will try disabling the OD by the switch on the shifter. What do you think the solenoid humming could be? Sounds like a electronic scribe used to etch metal. Stops when Throttle is moved off idle. The switch mounted on the throttle body is opened by this action. Will let you know about the OD drivability results.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Been chasing this for awhile. Is there a TC lock out solenoid that could cause this and is it associated with the throttle switch command?
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

Yes sir there is and that could be the buzzing your hearing, let me know what happens

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Well the saga continues. With the OD off it stalled . Keep in mind that it does not do it every time I stop the car. What are your recommendations now? Do you have the resistance values for the shift solenoids and a schematic? I could ohm them out from the transmission harness disconnect. really do not want to replace the shift solendoid assembly if I do not need to. Trans fluid looks good (not overheated). What are your thoughts about a fluid and filter change? Would that help this? Please advise. Thank you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I only want to open the trans pan once.
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

Transmissions should be flushed at least every 50k miles. I will get you those specs. And it is important for us to note that we cannot be certain you disabled the torque converter what about putting it in neutral before you come to a stop have you tried that? Are you setting any codes at all? If you can look at data what are the short and long term fuel trims

Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

TROUBLESHOOTING (CONVERTER STALL TEST)

The stall test consists of determining maximum engine speed obtained at full throttle in "D" and "R." This test checks torque converter stator overrunning clutch operation, and holding ability of transaxle clutches and low-reverse brake.

During this test, make sure that no one stands in front of or behind vehicle.

1.

Check transaxle fluid level. Fluid should be at normal operating temperature [80-90° (176-194°F)]. Engine coolant should also be at normal operating temperature [80-90°C (176-194°F)].

2.

Apply chocks to both rear wheels.

3.

Attach an engine tachometer.

4.

Apply the parking and service brakes fully.

5.

Start the engine.

6.

With the selector lever in the "D" position, depress the accelerator pedal fully to read maximum engine rpm. Do not hold the throttle wide open any longer than is necessary to obtain maximum engine rpm reading--never longer than is necessary to obtain maximum engine rpm reading--and never longer than 5 seconds at a time. If more than one stall test is required, operate the engine at approximately 1,000 rpm in neutral for 2 minutes to cool the transaxle fluid between tests.

7.

Stall Speed : 2,300-2,700 rpm

Place the selector lever in the "R" position and perform the stall test as previously described.

8.

Stall Speed Above Specification in "D"

If stall speed is higher than specification, rear clutch or overrunning clutch of transaxle is slipping. In this case, perform hydraulic test to locate cause of slippage.

9.

Stall Speed Above Specification in "R"

If the speed is higher than specification, the front clutch of the transaxle or low-reverse brake is slipping. In this case, perform the hydraulic test to locate the cause of slippage.

10.

Stall Speed Below Specification in "D" and "R"

If the stall speed is lower than specification, insufficient engine output or a faulty torque converter is suspected. Check for engine misfiring, improper ignition timing, or valve clearance etc. If these are good, the torque converter is faulty.

Portions of materials contained herein are sourced from the Hyundai Kia Automotive Group

Copyright 2011 - 2013 Service Repair Solutions, Inc.

Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

TROUBLESHOOTING (Rough Idle or Engine Stalls)

Case B: Rough idle or engine stalls (Figure 1)

Case B: Rough idle or engine stalls (Figure 2)

Portions of materials contained herein are sourced from the Hyundai Kia Automotive Group

Copyright 2011 - 2013 Service Repair Solutions, Inc.

Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

read this

Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

from what i see the solenoids in your trans were pretty commonly replaced, they dont cost a whole lot, i would put new ones in and flush fluid

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
it does not stall in N. It will have a quick shutter and rpm recovers with out stall and idle normal (Smooth). I will accomplish this test and let you know results. That PDF is for a different model and make. Any resistance values for the solenoids?
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

No sir I didn't see any listed, and you say it doesn't cut off in neutral? So far we've produced a pretty strong case for replacement. If this were my car I would price what a gasket, fluid and solenoids cost. Something else u stated that the rpm would drop but it would recover that's a good sign that your idle control valve is working properly.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Accomplished the stall speed test in D and R. In R I had 2400rpm and in D I had 2400rpm. This is within the limits of 2300-2700 range. This car only has 114000 miles on it. Can the solenoids be replaced individualy or have to be done as an assembly? The solenoid chattered is heard when engine off and shifter selected to R,D,1,2. does not do it in N. Does not matter if OD is on or off or economy selector switch engaged. Looks like a solenoid replacement is needed.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I found a solenoid kit MSKMA4AF3 and a schematic for resistance values. I will ohm them out tonight. Is this the right kit for a 1999 hyundai accent. It is the no frills model.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have no faults to note. My scanner will see short and long ft. What should it be?
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

Good morning on the fuel trims different makes will have a differ way of displaying them but in obd2 you would expect to see 0 to 5%

Fuel trims are in my opinion the most important piece of data and this is why. When an engineer builds and designs an engine and thr software is written it will be tuned and tuned for maximum benefit.

Now as thr car runs thr computer is programmed to achieve a certain level in other words clean air out pipe good fuel and power if thr computer achieves this and is able to do it without modifications to its program fuel trim would be 0. If it has to add fuel for some reason let's say worn component ljke spark plugs or fuel filter stopped up fuel filter fuel trims would be positive like 10% can even go up to 25 so if your looking at an engine a quick look at fuel trims Wil tel u if it's running lean or rich

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Going to order a solenoid kit, replace filter, flush and drain the transmission fluid. I will follow up with you in a couple of days.
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

I'm looking forward to that. Lets hope this takes care of it.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Here is an update: Went back and checked fuel pressure-36 idle with vacuum and 46 with vacuum disconected. I did find that the CTS was reading 25 degrees hotter than actual. Replaced sensor reading normal still dies. Solenoid chatter is no longer there but I did identify the solenoid that was doing it Blue wire pressure control B. Replaced fluid and filter shifts good and smooth. Still dies. Read that the Cam PS can cause stall at idle. Guess what after replacement still dies. So hear is what I have replaced. Crank and Cam position sensors, Coil pack, plug wires, Coolant temp sensor, fuel pressure good. no vacuum leaks. Stall converter test was good. Accomplished vigorous wire wiggle test looking for loose wires. All good.No codes. Frustrated. The IAC appears to work normal. Please advise I am financially commited now instead of chopping it up.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Any advisement?
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

Good morning didn't get on here much h over weekend let me review this

Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

Lol dont chop it up have you removed the throttle body cleaned it and the iac

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have cleaned the IAC. Have not removed the tb and cleaned it.
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

honestly alot of times that is the only way to get it truly done and then do the computer reboot after

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok will do that. will let you know.
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

please and good luck

Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

sir how did you come out on this

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
removed and cleaned IAC again was not bad. cleaned throttle body. Rebooted computer. No help. Thought it could be a vaccuum leak from the Evap system. Capped port on manifold and no help. I have no vacuum leaks it rock solid no fluctuations. Idle is smooth no shutter. FT was really close to zero. I noticed it will do the shutter and stall not long after the cooling fan turns on. It will stall when its in gear D or R shutter in N. No codes are present. Loosing faith. It died today when my daughter was coasting at 30mph this was the first time it has done that. I could not duplicate this during my drivability test.
Never crushed a car before this might be my first. lol
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

I understand that's weird I know you've wiggled wir e harnesses have uou took the ecm and slapped it flat handed? From what you've told me y ou ve checked and fixed about everything. I got one more place to look hold on

Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

Okay thr only problems frequently reported were thr transmission and you've addressed that, also thr wiring at the tps and maf sensor. And you have no codes? How strong is thr spark output?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I watched it idle this morning in D P and N. This appears to happen once it gets hot enough to turn the cooling fan on (using this as a reference point). I have to believe it is some sort of shift caused by temperature. When I tap the IACV it will rise in idle then return to 800. I can tap the IACV the opposite direction and it stumble like the one we are experiencing. Do you know if the gate valve in the IACV only spring loaded to the closed position and can open it with a pick? Should it be solid both directions like other type motor driver IACV I have seen.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Do you know what the maf is supposed to be reading while running?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
This is a good one isnt it
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Well I have not heard from you? Observed the IAT sensor was stuck at 115.7 deg f. Replace sensor reading correctly now still happening. The IACV is working properly. Replacing the MAF sensor tomorrow observed an anomolly when I tapped it. Do you have any other ideas? I think the machine attached to the radiator cap is a piece of crap. HAHA.
Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

Good morning I have been absent for couple days my apologies please alow me to study your question ne right bacj

Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

Okay please forgive my delay. The iac yes should be under complete control of thr motor tight in both directions. Thr maf g/s at idle should be 5 to 7 or so ck it at half throttle and snap throttle wide open u wanna see at least 90 or so. I would bet the maf fixes it.

Expert:  Reggie Whiddon replied 1 year ago.

Please let me know whst hapens

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Update. Changed mas. Idle smooth. So far so good. Resistance values where way different between the two sensors. Ft appears to me modulating now. Long ft -3.9 steady. Stft -.8 to 3.1 modulates between engine load and idle temp flux. Rpm 820. Iat 86. Mac .01 lb/s. Tp 11.8. O2 sensor values are way better and cycling normal. Going for the test drive.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Mas not Mac.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I drove it fo 20 miles under many different driving conditions. Absolutley no stalls occured. Think it is finally repaired. What a violation of my soul.

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