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Pressure switch error on my trane xl14c unit. Looking for a…

Pressure switch error on...

Pressure switch error on my trane xl14c unit. Looking for a reset button but can't locate it

Contractor's Assistant: How old is the appliance? Have you gotten error messages before?

No, think it's about 10 yrs old

Contractor's Assistant: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?

Yes, I've been inside the unit. I cleared the valves, tried sucking on the tubing and made sure no obstructions

Contractor's Assistant: Anything else we should know to help you best?

Blower seems to run fine, just not igniting

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Answered in 1 day by:
11/21/2017
Webb-Guy
Webb-Guy, HVAC Mechanic
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 3,318
Experience: maitenance tech at casto
Verified

Hello, and welcome to JustAnswer. My name is ***** ***** I will be the one to assist you. Sorry to hear that you are having this trouble. I apologize for the extended wait time you experienced, I've only just come online now and would like to assist you with your question if you are still needing help that is?

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
please, I described the issue already. Only update is that I replaced the pressure switch but it still won't ignite. Blower comes on but no ignition and error code says it's a pressure switch issue

have you tested the ignitor yet?

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
How would I do that

do you have a multimeter?

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ok ​so I need you to test the ignitor to see if it has continuity?

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Please give detailed instructions rather than just a sentence at a time. Please provide a series of steps.

My apologies I am not trying to be short I was just dealing with a few other things as well. This video should certainly help you with testing this part to see if this is where the issue lies.

https://youtu.be/GYG7kA5uqjk​

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
I searched for the ignitor, please see attached as it looks very different from the one in the video, also it did not have two terminals, but when I put both ends of the meter on the single terminal I did not get a read of anything more than an ohms or two.
Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Please reply
airheatman
airheatman, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 9,209
Experience: Furnace, A/C and heat pump specialist.
Verified

My name is***** you are getting a pressure switch error, the igniter has not come into play yet.Disregard earlier comments and lets see why pressure switch is not being recognized as closed..Give me complete furnace model from label on inside of furnace so I can give instructions specific to your unit.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
At work now, will do that this evening.

Sounds good. What we will do is allow the inducer motor to start,then verify whether pressure switch is closing or not.Could be that it is closing but board is not recognizing it closed. As soon as board recognizes pressure switch closed ignitor should start sparking.Until it does we will get no igniter.

You can test continuity on the switch after inducer starts to verify if it is closing.

If not closing you can take a jumper and bypass the pressure switch to see if error will go away.(Just for testing purposes).Note :we have to allow inducer to start first as inducer will not start unless switch is "open"

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Can you tell me how to do the continuity test? I assume use an ohmmeter, and what should I see?

If your meter has sound it should beep.If not give me model on meter and I will look it up

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Try bypassing pressure after inducer starts

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Sorry, not sure how

Take a jumper wire and connect the pressure switch terminals together,That will simulate it being closed.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Ok will need to get a jumper wire. Will let you know

If you have a couple of alligator clips you can make one

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Ok and the wire would just connect the terminals on the pressure switch

We want to actually connect the wires If you can partially unplug from swicth you can place jumper on terminals.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Here is a picture of jumper wire connected along with wires to terminal. The blower did not come on this way. When I removed connectors and just had the jumper wire on the cables the blower comes on but get the same error and no ignition.
Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Any thoughts?

Jumper has put in place AFTER inducer starts.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
start system and blower then connect jumper....that correct
Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Just to be clear, before I try again......the set up should be the same as I sent in the picture, with the wires on the terminals, but just add the ends of the jumper wire to the terminals AFTER the blower has started, correct?
Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Progress, I jumped it. Ignitor lit and blinking led was constant, which I believe means normal call for heat.So gas and ignition work, what should I do now?

Next we have to decide if pressure switch is bad or inducer is not pulling suffiocient vacuum to close it.Remove hose from inducer housing and leave it attached to the pressure switch. Power off and back on to reset board again, Then call for heat at thermostat. Allow inducer to start then suck on the end of hose still attached to pressure switch and see if switch will close and burners ignite.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Ok, yes, did what you said and got it to ignite. First had to reset the flame rollout switch, but once I did it ignited.
Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Also, I just went to trip the pressure switch to get some heat into the house. Ignition was successful but after a couple minutes the flame rollout switch opened....not sure if this gives you ideas on what is wrong

While the furnace is running, watch the flame and tell me if the characteristic of flame is changing like blowing around or rolling out and getting close to the rollout switch.Id sounds like a bad heat exchanger

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Would fixing the heat exchanger likely also fix the suction to the pressure switch?

Absolutely.If heat exchanger is allowing the burners to fluctuate, that would also effect the vacuum on the pressure switch.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
OK, I work now, but will look later, where is the heat exchanger...what should I look for (I'll look at the flame again, but when I've done it I haven't seen the flame move blowing around or rolling out, but I'll check again).....pretty solid gas smell.If it needs replaced, do you know where I can get one and estimate how much it might be?

If issue is heat exchanger, you may want to check and see if it might be covered under warranty.If you had to pay to replace, you can buy a new furnace cheaper.

Toss a tablespoon of salt in blower and see if flame color turns all orange.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Good news, bad newsGood, heating exchange is under warranty (though I haven't looked at it)Bad news, I went to trip the pressure switch and the led on the motherboard went out.Ugh

Is there a fuse on control board?If so look and see if maybe it just blew little fuse.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
I'm not sure where the fuse is, here are some pics can you help me find it.I think at this point I'm pretty confident it is the heat exchanger, which is under warranty.Can you estimate what the cost...should be all labor would be to get it, and perhaps the fuse replaced.

Yours does not have a fuse on board doesn't look like but instead a round fuse.

Please remember to rate answer 5 starts so I am credited with assising you.

You may have to pay a couple hundred for the replacement labor on exchanger

Thanks again

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
FYI, just gave you five star ratingBut never ending saga continues. Had repairman come out, said the inducer motor was bad, showed me how the blades had come off, so that makes sense in terms of not creating enough suction to ignite. But would that explain the flame rollout when I did bypass the motor and sucked on the tube for the pressure switch?Also, they wanted to charge me over $800 to replace it, seemed high to me.If it is the heat exchanger, which they did not look at, that is under warranty but the motor is not.I feel like I can get an inducer motor and replace it myself for much less than $800, but if I do would that void the warranty to get the heat exchanger replaced if indeed that is the problem as well.

You can definitely save money by replacing yourself. AS for the warranty on heat exchanger they do not need to know you changed inducer yourself.Just tell contractor you are going to have to wait on doing the repair. Then order and replace inducer.If you ever need to make a claim on heat exchanger and they bring it up just tell them you had someone else do it.They don't have to know the someone else was you.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
having someone else doing it won't affect warranty on heat exchanger?Do you think a bad inducer might still account for flame rollout?Also, can you provide any help in finding the right motor on line. I'm looking now, and can't seem to find the exact part. Any help is appreciatedthis is a huge help, thanks

Give me complete model on furnace.

And yes fauty inducer could indeed effect the draft causing rollout trip

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Model # is 4YCY4024A1064A

My source is not listing part number for the inducer.Can you get the part number from the inducer itself?

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
D673963P01I put that into google and got this, looks about righthttps://www.amazon.com/Furnace-Inducer-7021-9396-C665662P01-Fasco/dp/B000NL7Z0Y
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
other numbers on the blower7062-5891CC16100380221

Yep that is about right for wholesale costs .A lot better than 800 bucks

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ridiculous, when I asked for the breakdown of labor vs the part....they didn't know.That was on top of a $100 visit charge and a $50 charge if they have to come back. For what seems to be removing screws

Ashamed folks take advantage of people like that

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Got the new part, pic is of the old....there is a lot of this fuzzy stuff along the edges...not sure if that was intentional....it is on the inside of the backplate as well just in front of the heat exchangers. Also a bit concerned. New part has a black and red wire, old one also had a blue wire going to the motherboard. Do I need to insulate the new motor....or can I just screw it in as is. Do I need to worry about the blue wire

THat appears to be from old hasket. Make sure to clean all of that off and install new gasket. There should have been instructions with new motor if changes were required.Double check the numbers on moto and make sure they sent right one.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ok. Need help with gasket. What material should I use?

New ones have always come with a gasket shaped to fit the housing as it has to be absolutely air tight.You might be able to use a high temp sealant if you can;t find one locally.I am about to walk out of office for weekend.Will check in Monday

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ok, here is the update. I checked the part, seems to be the right one. I've installed it using 3m fire block fb136 sealant. When I turned it on it runs, there is the pressure switch error for a second then led flashes slowly....signaling normal call for heat. But no ignition. When I suck on the pressure switch tube it ignited, but there is still roll back.Head is spinning- blue wire from motherboard is not attached to anything...is that an issue?- applied sealant in the cold- do I need to wait....and how long before sealant really works, an I just experiencing a leak?- going to check the wires tomorrow to make sure both speeds are enabled. Wondering if high speed isn't happening.Any insights would help
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ok, spent some time. Pretty sure I know the problem, not the solution.When there is a call for heat, inducer motor runs, while the led gives a quick pressure switch error it quickly goes to normal.After a few seconds of running, inducer stops, you hear a spark but then inducer starts again.The new motor is single speed, with only two wires, but old one had three connections. One to high speed on motherboard, one on low speed on motherboard, and one to common.The only combination where it will run is connected to high speed and common.I'm suspecting that the call for heat calls for high speed to close the pressure switch, but once closed slows down during ignition....but since there is no low speed connection, inducer stops, pressure switch opens and inducer kicks into high speed again.I'm hoping since you confirmed this is the right motor replacement that there is a wiring trick I can perform.

THat is my concern is that they sent right motor.UNless they sent special instructions for the changeover, the motors should have same wires.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ok....but they don't. So now what?!?;

Wow, I think I would contact the supplier and explain that you crossed referenced the part number on your existing motor and this is the one they showed as a replacement.Explain the difference in wiring as ask ten for their solution.Wish I could be more definitive but like I said, usually if there are changes they will send instructions for the adaption.

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