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MY AC IS NOT COOLING, 2 DAYS, YES, i HAVE replaced the cap,

Customer Question
MY AC IS NOT...

MY AC IS NOT COOLING

Contractor's Assistant: I'll do all I can to help. How long have you been dealing with this?

2 DAYS

Contractor's Assistant: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?

YES, i AM TRYING

Contractor's Assistant: Anything else we should know to help you best?

I HAVE replaced the cap, the fans are running, 240 V contactor seems to be working. Compressor is not running.

Submitted: 11 months ago.Category: HVAC
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Answered in 9 minutes by:
9/15/2017
HVAC Technician: Regan Land, HVAC Technician replied 11 months ago
Regan Land
Regan Land, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 768
Experience: Over 20 years of experience, NATE Certified, Licensed HVAC Contractor, Certified IAQ Specialist
Verified

Hello and welcome to Just Answer - my name is ***** ***** I'll be happy to assist you today. Does your meter happen to have an amp clamp?

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Customer reply replied 11 months ago
I have one of those somewhere around here. Purchased a new contactor. looks good. single pole sealed from ants.
HVAC Technician: Regan Land, HVAC Technician replied 11 months ago

Okay, turn off the high voltage at the condenser and turn the thermostat to cool. Put the amp clamp on the black wire that goes to the compressor and turn the power on. Watch the meter closely and see what it reads then let me know.

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Customer reply replied 11 months ago
The thing that concerns me most is that my old board does what the amazon reviewer pg318 says " I had to wire into a couple of the relays from that system, since I have a 240V reversing valve, and this one is configured for a low voltage valve coil, and I used the existing fan control contactor to prevent the full current going through the relay on this board, for better reliability."
Is this "Universal defrost controller" going to work for me?
Today, I have received this new defrost controller and would like to install it now. https://www.amazon.com/Rheem-Protech-Defrost-Control-47-102685-85/dp/B004W10H7O/ref=pd_sbs_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004W10H7O&pd_rd_r=RBW2S7KKZKERRP20J6XR&pd_rd_w=XE58N&pd_rd_wg=nQqPI&psc=1&refRID=RBW2S7KKZKERRP20J6XR I am attaching a picture of my old board which looks similar to this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rheem-Ruud-1157-***-**-****84-01-Defrost-Control-Board-NEW-Priority-Mail-Ship/351327526336?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D00e14b0a010c4a82b80ea81862ee2a11%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D291827823249&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Customer reply replied 11 months ago
on the new board , what do I select for the AB dip switch setting?
Customer reply replied 11 months ago
I am going to need you to draw me a picture using the photos so I can correctly connect the dozen or so wires.
Customer reply replied 11 months ago
I am going to need some directions on how to correctly position the two sensors onto my Heat Pump Unit. thanks.
HVAC Technician: Regan Land, HVAC Technician replied 11 months ago

Sorry, I just got your reply. Are you positive the board is bad? It looks like there's oil all over the suction line at the compressor. If the unit has a low pressure switch it's possible that the compressor isn't coming on due to an open pressure switch.

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HVAC Technician: Regan Land, HVAC Technician replied 11 months ago

If the board is bad then the second one (from ebay) is the one you want - however you will want the sensors that come with it. try this one:

https://arnoldservice.com/product/47-102684-83-rheem-ruud-heat-pump-defrost-control-board/

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Customer reply replied 11 months ago
I think the board is bad because I shorted the two pins on the corner and blew a 24V 3 amp fuse on the main board in the heating unit (inside). I have replaced it with a 5 amp fuse from a similar board for now. This unit is like 15 years old. I have not had regular (yearly) maintenance performed on it. So you are suggesting after a replace the board with a proper unit and get the Freon topped up, it will all be good. That sounds promising if I can add a little from a pressurized can and not pay someone 150 USD to do it.
HVAC Technician: Regan Land, HVAC Technician replied 11 months ago
Popping the fuse by shorting test pins does sound like a board issue - as long as everything else is hooked up properly. It looks like everything is from what I can see in the pictures - but I can't see the contractor. If you feel comfortable, you could try to use a piece of wire and jump the C terminal to CC (with thermostat calling for cool) and see if the outdoor unit comes on. If so then the board is definitely bad. If not, then we need to continue checking.
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Customer reply replied 11 months ago
yeah, I guess I can do that. I think you mean the HVac on the left side of the board. c and cc
Customer reply replied 11 months ago
nothing good to report , something got hot and popped.
HVAC Technician: Regan Land, HVAC Technician replied 10 months ago

Not sure I follow. All that jumping C and CC would do is bypass the relay that's built in to the board. Do you know what it was that popped? Can you take a picture of the contactor for me and post it here?

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Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 768
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