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I have a 4 year old central heating/air unit (gas/electric)

Customer Question
Hi, I have a 4...
Hi, I have a 4 year old central heating/air unit (gas/electric) that's not working quite right. During the hottest part of the day and into the late evening (around 1 pm - 9 pm) the unit only works intermittently, but doesn't cool the house below 77 degrees (set at 72) and won't come on until it's 78 or warmer. Overnight and early day it works, but it constantly resets the clock. Power transformer in the attic shows 19.x vac while the thermostat shows 27.x vac.Changed the thermostat (from digitial programmable to digital programmable wifi capable) but it's doing the same thing all over again.One more oddity: late at night the thermostat display will essentially disappear, but then the unit begins working.A/C mfg: Amana, 3.5 ton
Submitted: 6 months ago.Category: HVAC
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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Also, I had my brother in law, who completed HVAC school a couple of years ago, check the voltage transformer. It was 19.x next to the blower and 27.x volts at the thermostat
Answered in 1 hour by:
8/5/2017
HVAC Technician: Daniel Plourde, HVAC Technician replied 6 months ago
Daniel Plourde
Daniel Plourde, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 430
Experience: I've been in the HVAC buisness since 2008 working on residential, commercial, and industrial buildings
Verified

hi i am dan i can help you with this. one possibility is a safety switch is turning the unit off. the first one i would check is if it is in an attic there should be a large pan under the unit in this pan there is a water sensor that will turn off the unit if any water leaks into that pan. i would check to see if any water is in the pan during the times when the unit is not working.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
No water in the pan. At all.
HVAC Technician: Phil, Mechanical Engineer replied 6 months ago
Phil
Phil, Mechanical Engineer
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 6,938
Experience: Retired HVAC/ Electrical & Boiler contractor. Industrial
Verified

I see that you have requested a new professional, if that is correct, tell me if you think I will be able to help you or not.

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I am a retired mechanical engineer and HVAC/electrical/ refrigeration and boiler contractor... with 56 years in this business. The last 20 of those years consulting for major firms nationally..

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All I ask is please select the***RATING LINK***at the top of your page, that is the only way I am credited through the site. Rating does not affect your charges nor ability to refund if not satisfied.

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If you need to be coached through a full diagnosis/repair,and wiring etc. for up to two days, and wish to be trained to use test instruments...... that goes well beyond' Just a simple Answer' of course, and goes beyond what most other experts here offer.....rate my simple answer so far positively.. and I will deliver that training and coaching to you All on the same dime so to speak.

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Attach a close up photo of the wiring diagram glued to the inside of the blower access door and I will mark it up with troubleshooting instructions then follow up with step by step training and coaching until you have a solution.

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Photo must be exceedingly well focused. Use the 'add files' link next to your send button to get the photo to me.

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Phone call offers:

If you wish to accept the companies $25 phone call offer,if indeed they send you one, this will go a *lot faster, but it IS 100% optional... or we can continue here in this dialog box at no additional charge.

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Regarding the issue with your amana unit. Here is a list of things that will cause the problem, we can address each one id detail if you choose to continue with me:

1. Older unit that has not had its condenser coil cleaned in some time.

2. A service person has recently worked on it and added refrigerant that it did not need so now it is

over charged with refrigerant

3. As the previous expert suggested, there may a float switch in the condensate line shutting the system off

as the condensate drains too slowly, that would be the hidden drain pan, inside the box with the cooling coil in it, not the back up safety drain pan visible under the entire unit which normally runs dry

4. Unit is newer, and is undersized for the home,

5. If the system worked well before you changed the thermostat, you may have made a wiring mistake, or

programmed the thermostat for the wrong type of system. or with too great a differential,

Let me know on each of those points, we can go from there

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Phil
Phil, Mechanical Engineer
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 6,938
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Experience: Retired HVAC/ Electrical & Boiler contractor. Industrial

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