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I have a Rheem A024JK heat pump, manufactured 2014,

Customer Question
Hi, I have a Rheem...
Hi, I have a Rheem A024JK heat pump, manufactured 2014, installed 2 years ago. The unit will not operate at this moment, even the thermostat setting seeks cooling. The unit gets electricity, all fuses are okay. When power is applied to the unit, LED1 and LED2 are alternatively flashing, which I am reading about, seems to mean normal operation. With the outside unit open, when pushing in the contactor with a screwdriver, the compressor turns on, but the house blower fan does not turn on (the compressor coil fan turns on with the compressor). Oddly, several months before, the house blower fan came on, on its own, without a calling from the inside house thermostat. More recent, the thermostat setting caused the unit to operate, but the blower fan did not come on. So I immediately turned off the thermostat. Now the unit will not power on, from the thermostat demand. What is my problem with my heat pump unit?
JA: Did you double-check the thermostat's settings? And what about the filters?
Customer: Thermostat is okay. I even went so far as to replace the thermostat itself with the same model. No wiring changes were needed. As for filters, the only filter, is inside the house, blower fan is outside the house. One should not affect the other, in my application.
JA: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?
Customer: Yes, I want to troubleshoot it myself. If an electrical part is needed, I can buy and install that part myself.
JA: Anything else we should know to help you best?
Customer: All-in-one heat pump unit, and all is outside, except thermostat of course. Newer unit, is clean on the inside of the outside unit. No apparent damage anywhere on or in the unit.
Submitted: 3 months ago.Category: HVAC
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Answered in 14 minutes by:
8/4/2017
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago
airheatman
airheatman, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 8,527
Experience: Furnace, A/C and heat pump specialist.
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Give me complete model and tell me if you have a multi meter for troubleshooting.

1. Will anything come on in heat cool or fan on modes?

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
It is a Rheem A024JK000, yes I have aq multimeter, and no, nothing happens when I turn the thermostat from off to cool, or heat, and nothing happens when I turn the fan from auto to on.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Rheem RQNM A024JK000 Heat Pump
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Nothing comes on, when thermostat is switvhed to different settings or modes.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

Lets start by checking power to transformer

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
there is power to the transformer, 240 volts
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I have good output. The transformer is giving me 27.3 volts.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

Is fuse good?

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
fuse is okay.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Okay. So, I do not have a green wire there. I have blue, red, purple, yellow wires, at the board. I jumped the red and the yellow together, and got aloud clicking sound, I think was fdrom the contactor. but nothing came on. I did not jump any other wires, just the yellow and red. I do have a green wire in the box, which goes to the fan, but is connected at a relay. I did not make contact with that particular green wire. I am unsure if I need jump either the purple or the blue wire, at the board, with the red wire which is there. So I did not proceed past the one jump, red and yellow wires..
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

Tell me what color wires you have at thermostat and what terminals on thermostat they connect to

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
At the thermostat, red, yellow, brown, blue, green, white/black. the circuit board is y,b,d,r,c.- which is yellow, blue, purple, red, brown. brown is the common. purple becomes a white/black. Interestingly, the green thermostat wire goes directly to that small black relay-type electric part. So, I jumped the red with the green, both from the thermostat wiring inside the house, and then from the red wire at the circuit board, to the actual green wire, within the outside unit itself. Nothing happened, either time.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

OK now check at the thermostat between the C brown and the red R for 24 volts

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
27 volts there, same as my transformer output
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

OK that tells us we have 24v going TO thermostat.

Now lets see if we have 24v coming back from thermostat on call for cool or fan on.

24v common is brown and goes to the time delay or directly to fan relay

Red is 24v hot going to thermostat

On call for cool or fan the 24v hot should be sent back through green to the tie delay if you have one or directly to fan relay if not.

Check between brown 24v common and green24v hot with thermostat calling for cool or fan

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
No, I did not get any volts. I went from the brown wire terminal at the circuit board, to the green wire terminal, located on the bottom of the relay. I checked and re-checked, no voltage between those two terminals.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

OK so we are losing it before it gets back to unit. Twist R and G together at thermostat and see if we do

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I get voltage when I put the red and the green wires together. BUT, I made my first mistake. I re-checked again, the brown and the green, with the thermostat calling for cool. and I got voltage. I told you I did not get voltage, but, as I checked the past step again, rubbing the probe for good connection, I got voltage. Sorry about that. I am confident you and I can proceed assuming voltage between the brown wire on the circuit board, and the green wire on the relay.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I seem to only get1/2 the voltage, about 115 volts. The other relay terminal, the red wires, they have about 149-150 volts, between them, and the orange wires at the capacitor top (one red splits of from the contactor to the capacitor. If i re-check, the voltage seems at 150, at the wires you wanted me to check. But when power first turned on, only 115 volts between the relay top wires and the capacitor top orange wires.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

Gotta go.Will check in tomorrow to se if you still need help

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HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

OK I am back it appears no one stepped in to help.Did you check last place I mentioned?

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I checked the voltages as mentioned. However, I seem to only have 1/2 the required voltage. I have been trying to determine why all this is happening.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I have my owners manual, with the schematic in it, in pdf on the computer. Plus, I have been studying your highlights on the same wiring diagram.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

You do have the 230v at contactor from breaker right?

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
from L1 to L3 on the contactor, is 240 volts.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
As for components, I seem to have RC1, the main capacitor. But not RC2, which I interpret as the IBM capacitor. I am supposing that is integrated into the motor housing (covers off, cannot see or feel capacitor on or near the blower motor
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
when I check the voltages, I have been using the contacts which are on the relay itself, and on the contactor itself.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

Not sure what you mean

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
from BR2 to CC L1 is 1/2 voltage. and then also from BR 4 to cc L1, same voltage, is 1/2 required voltage
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I probe only from contactor to relay. On the schematic, shows RC2. which is not here on my unit (visible anyway). The orange wire from the fan motor goes straight to the contactor L3. Long wire, from the motor, to the contactor pin
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Anyway, all that aside. I hear you, about the voltage should be 230.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I been lookinga t what it is, and what it is not, wrong with the unit. I have yet to explain the alternating flashing ds1 and ds2 leds
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Seems the thermostat is sending the proper signals to the unit. And even if it was fan motor-related, seems to me that would not stop the unit from operating.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I am suspecting those smaller components, such as seems called time delay. I not understand them really.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
But I will recheck and retrace what I am doing, and try hard to get the 230 volts at the locations where you say that voltage should be.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

Troubleshooting is just a process of elimination to find what component is failing to do its job.The simple side is the fan side so if nothing is happening we start there.

AS we have done :

1.Verfiy 230 to transformer

2.Verify 24 out of transformer

3.Verify fuse is good.

4.Verify we are getting 24 to thermostat

5.Verify thermostat is sending the 24v back to fan relay

6.Verify fan relay is supplied high voltage from contactor

7.Verify on call for cool the relay is sending the hot leg through to fan.

If all are correct fan or cap would be bad.

If we are losing the 24v anywhere along the way that component would be the culprit (fuse, thermostat,time delay or relay)

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I am not 100% sure, just yet, about steps 6 and 7.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
L3 to br4 is 63 volts, and br4 to cabinet ground is no voltage, 0 volts.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
proper voltage red to black, and each leg to ground. 240, 120, 120, as required.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
it is reading at 117 volts
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

OK earlier it read 0?

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
br4 to cabinet ground is 0. I seem to always have had this 1/2 voltage reading
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
what I mean is, l3 to br4 is 1/2 of 230 volts
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I know all this seems strange. I just cannot get the req
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
required 230 volts, anywhere on or near the relay. 230 volts only l1 to l3 on the contactor
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I agree. The black on the relay br4, it goes to something seems could be a time delay device. (3 wires on its bottom, then 2 wires on sides, and 2 addtional wires at its top. br4 does not go directly to l3, it goes to the device as mentioned.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Not to make complicate, but the br4 relay post has black to that device, and also a green/black wire, that is the green going to the fan motor. Probably not our issue, that green/black wire.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Just a small fyi, the wires, they look good, not weathered or split, anywhere. I realize you cannot see the condition of the unit I have here.It appears very much like new, inside and outside.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
In fact, this unit has less than 10 hours runtime. I have had it for several years, but always ran house fans, to save on electricity.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

Problem may be as simple as the time delay is bad. Can you send pics? WE can bypass the time delay

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I will work to get some pics
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

OK, Sorry for delays .I run a retail shop on weekends so working on this between customers

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Thanks for taking time with me
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
oh, I did infact send one to you
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I,ll send another also. As you see, left to right, circuit board, capacitor, relay. then bottom, left to right, those 2 black small devices. The left one has 6 wires total.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I might could send larger pic. Just let me know if you need more
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

I could figure out if onsite, but tracing the wires and troubleshooting through this method is going to be almost impossible for me.I am going to open to other experts at this time.

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HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

I have opted out of the question to see if perhaps other experts may have more information and can assist.Please do not rate or reply as that will send question back to my desk and delay getting assistance..Please stand by to see if another expert can assist further.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Thanks. And thanks for your time. You have been very very valuable to me, and I greatly appreciate your time, and the steps you have brought me through.
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I am quite willing to bypass one or both of those lower devices. I feel as though I need just slightly more guidance before I make a bypass. I am well aware the circuit board is delicate and expensive. But I believe what we were looking at was some sort of a time delay. In fact, each time I applied powrer, when I went to check a voltage, after about1 minute I believe I heard the faint click of the relay. I am hoping anyway, so as to prove that the relay is not the problem. Hoping!
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Thanks again for your time.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 3 months ago

No problem, just wish we could have solved the problem

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