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I'm replacing a furnace blower motor and assumed it would be…

I'm replacing a furnace blower...
I'm replacing a furnace blower motor and assumed it would be plug and play. Old motor had 5 wires; white, brown, black, red and blue. The brown and white went to the cap, with another white wire coming from the furnace power box to the cap. The black went to the control panel, the blue was spliced to another wire from the power box and the red was taped. New motor is 1/3 hp, 1075, 3 speed, 115 volt Dayton motor and was the recommended replacement. It has more wires than the old one; white, brown, brown/white, black, red and blue. I wired it the same as the old one, except browns to either side of the cap and white to white. It hums and only starts when I finger flick it. Any ideas?
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Answered in 13 minutes by:
4/25/2017
Daniel Plourde
Daniel Plourde, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 455
Experience: I've been in the HVAC buisness since 2008 working on residential, commercial, and industrial buildings
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hi I am dan I can help you with this. first is the white wire connected to the capacitor? if it is then remove it. also did you install the new capacitor or using the old one

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Old white wire attached to the old cap is now spliced to the white wire in new motor. New cap for the motor is installed.

ok does it work now

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
No, that was the original way I hooked it up. Still hums, but starts with a finger flick.

ok is the capacitor the correct size for the new motor?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Motor is a Dayton model 4M098 and the cap is the one paired to it; 5/370. I also tried a 7.5/440 and nothing.

ok try reversing the rotation and see if it works

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Not sure that will work. When I start it with my finger, it starts up no the correct rotation no problem.

that will not fix the problem it is just to test if it is a problem with the motor or the jumper plug. also make sure the plug is connected all the way

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
It threw a pretty nice spark and tripped the breaker. Switched it back and it is still trying to run.

ok what is the model number of the furnace

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ok and the furnace is 115 volts correct?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Correct.

ok next put the jumper back the way it was, set the thermostat to fan on and disconnect the blue wire from the motor and test the opperation

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Nice spark and tripped breaker.

ok any further troubleshooting will require using a multimeter to trace out where the problemis

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Let me dig through my boxes. If I find it, I'll shoot another note.

ok let me know

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Not sure if you are still on, but I have a multimeter in hand

ok next can you take some clearer pictures of the wires and where they are connected and leave the blue wire disconnected so just the black white and capacitor are connected

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ok next disconnect the black and white and connect the white to one meter lead and the other meter lead to the relay terminal and make sure you are getting 115 volts and then measure from the relay terminal to ground and make sure you are getting 115 volts

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Terminal and white = 0v, terminal and the old blue connection = 26v. Checked the multimeter in a socket and got 120v.

ok just to confirm the thermostat was still set to fan on and from the black wire terminal to the white wire from the furnace you had 0 volts? did you test from the black wire terminal to ground?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Correct. Relay to ground was 124v

ok there is a problem with that white neutral wire it is broken or disconnected somewhere. check that wire next

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Screwed that up. I have a new fangled thermostat that takes a while to kick in. 124v terminal to white.

ok now while the motor is disconnected ohm the motor between the black and white wire

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Not sure how to read resistance readings, with power on 0.0. Power off is 0.L.

power has to be off for continuity testing. disconnect the black and white wires for the motor. set the meter to ohms or continuity, attach one lead to the black wire from the motor and the other to the white wire from the motor

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
3.9 for resistance, 4.6 ohms continuity.

ok now reconnect the black wire to the terminal and the white wire to the white wire. leave the blue disconnected. the motor should run

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
It wanted to start up, but I had to spin it to get going.

ok then since you already tried 2 capacitors and it didn't work and then by reversing the rotation and it tripped the breaker then I would say the motor is bad. even though it is a brand new motor it must have something wrong inside it. everything is wired correctly and assuming the capacitor is good there is no reason why it shouldn't work.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Got it. I'll try a new one. Thanks for the help. How do you get credit for this?

ok good luck with it. let me know if you have any more questions about this. the only way I receive credit is by you rating my service by selecting one of the 5 stars on your page. thank you for using this service

Daniel Plourde
Daniel Plourde, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 455
Experience: I've been in the HVAC buisness since 2008 working on residential, commercial, and industrial buildings
Verified
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