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I have a nordyne gas furnace model no. GL1RA 072C-12A that

Customer Question
Hi Tim So I have a...
Hi Tim
So I have a nordyne gas furnace model no. GL1RA 072C-12A that is flashing once, replaced the mother board (hooked up a digital multimeter to the gas solenoid and got no tone) and ensured the limit switch is good...out of ideas!
JA: Did you double-check the thermostat? And what about the pilot light?
Customer: yep. good
JA: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?
Customer: yep
JA: Anything else we should know to help you best?
Customer: no
Submitted: 1 year ago.Category: HVAC
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Answered in 3 minutes by:
11/17/2016
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago
BillyHvac
BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 22,765
Experience: Endorsed for unlimited heating, cooling, oil burners, boilers, refrigeration, hydronics
Verified

Hello,

When you shut off power and turn back on, does it go straight to blinking?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
No, blinks right before flue blower comes on and then once every 4 secs or so...
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

Thank you,

What all limits did you test and how did you test them

See here

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
just touched both terminals (of the gas solenoid) for resistance... got like 12 ohms, touched one lead to ground, got nothing, touched the other lead to ground got nothing (had the meter on sound).
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

when this first happened was the filter plugged?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
no, filter was replaced about 2 months ago (was clean when I pulled it) and has since been removed
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

Ok we are going to eliminate one at a time.

Number 11 on the chart I sent HEREPower oiff...remove the 2 wires, connect direct together (a small nail, staple or paperclip inserted into each wire end connector works well).

with wires connected directly together turn power on and tell me code.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
sorry, what page?
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

Look for the blue hilights

Like HERE

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
this is for the limit switch?
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

correct

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
stand by
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
status light still blinking once (I removed the limit switch from upstairs to the one downstairs a few days ago...no love, but then reinstalled the one from downstairs into the "good" upstairs and it worked just fine).
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

thank you....now we want to move to the rollouts......follow the wires from the limit you just checked. The wires will leapfrog to limits before returning to circuit board...we want to check all these...the roll outs by the burners have tiny reset buttons in center.

Also if you can post a pic of your furnace with doors off I can draw locations for you

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
red buttons (two dime sized ..near the burner assy) are good, they do not push in! Pics on the way!
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
keep getting an error message....let me resize (5.2mb now)
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

thank you,

If you follow the wires from the safetys you have found...do any of the wires lead to the blower (bottom) compartment

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
they do, checked the leads and wiggled, all good!
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

did you bypass the switch as described earlier?

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HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

yes...but have you been jumping each limit the same way to eliminate?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
no, so the house blower is a huge plug (at least 4 wires), do you want me to jump that the same way?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
i'll need 4 paper clips?
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

we will not jump anything except the limit switches...no blower wires..

Post pic of where the wires from phenolic go to blower section

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
btw, blower to house is turning on (along with flue blower)...still want pics?
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

Yes....when a limit is open the main blower runs by default

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
does that help? Or do you need another pic?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
does that mean it closes when hot?
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

ok imagine this...

The circuit board has a wire that leaves it on the the way to the "limit" loop. It goes through each limit leap frogging until finally the wire returns to the circuit board. Somewhere in the loop is an open contact.

I need to follow the wires safetys until you cover everything in that loop....

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
ok, do I jump anything along the way?
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

everything in that loop one at a time...until the light goes solid

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
roger!
HVAC Technician: BillyHvac, Journeyman HVAC Tech replied 1 year ago

have to sign off for a while, but will repsond as soon as I can.

Billy

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
ok, tried everything
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
no love on all the jumps
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago
airheatman
airheatman, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 8,516
Experience: Furnace, A/C and heat pump specialist.
Verified

Let's do this.SINCE WE ARE GETTING A LIMIT ERROR> Note there are 2 blue wires leaving the 9 pin plug on board. One leaves board and goes through all limits and then returns to board proving the circuit is closed. Unplug the 9 pin plug and stick the leads from your meter into the unplugged harness between pins 3 and 8 and see if we have continuity.That will tell us if there is an pen limit in the circuit or not.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I get no audible beep when I touch the dmm to the blue pins, but what is strange, when I test any sets of pins I get nothing! User error?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
meaning orange/orange and yellow/brown
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

Are you sure you found them all? rollouts near burners,main limit in furnace vestibule exhaust vent and on blower housing are likely places you may have them.I would start at board and visibly trace blue wire to verify all the way back to board.Most likely overlooked is one in blower housing.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
no, just the ones in the 9 pin plug... i'll check now!
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

OK the reason you get no reading on orange orange is because the pressure switch is "open".It does not close until inducer motor comes on. Yellow brown are low voltage out to gas valve.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
the two flame roll out switches are good (took the wires off, got an audible sound for both), the 4 pins going to the blower are good, flue blower is good... but can't get anything on the 8 and 3 pin nor the gas valve...
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

You have to have a break somewhere in the blue wire if you do not get continuity between the blues. Until we get continuity, board is not going let 24v go to the valve.

Next I would put one meter probe into one of the blues on socket.Then leaving it there. Go to every limit in circuit and check both sides until you find where we do not have continuity.(Note touch leads together first just to veirfy meter is working)

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
yeah I have a complex dmm isn't working so I touch the leads regularly to verify that it is...ok, I'll try that!
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

We have to find the break.If you want to prove this is the issue.(if you have a couple of wire nuts) cut the blue wires just outside the 9 pin and connect the ones from the plug together just for a test to see if furnace works. Of course this is only for a test and you will need to reconnect correctly.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I just noticed something, my blue 3 pin goes to the limit first then the flame roll out...did I just do a rookie move or does the logic from the board allow this?
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

It really makes no difference They are all in series.Remember the old Christmas bulbs where if one went out, they all went out? THis is about the same. That blue has to leave board go through all limits and come back.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
no, it has to go to the limit first, otherwise it only goes to one flame roll out (on top) then back to the board skipping the others. I'm thinking taking the blower out, that switch I can't get to...and the only other wires out of the blower are the one out of the motor!
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

AS state, it can go through any one first as long as it goes into one ,then out to next through each one,but I usually wires per mfgr diagram.Lets check the one on blower.They are known to fail.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
ok, this one is gonna take a while, removing this will be fun! Ya know, the blow only turned on once, every other time I flipped the switch for power the blower didn't turn on...only the flue blower!
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

Take your time. AS mentioned if you don't mind a wire connector you can cut the blue wires to and from and tie them together to see if that is the problem

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
got continuity across the blower switch and re-installed it and the system worked but the house blower did not come on...allowed the manifold to run like a minute before I shut it down, I was getting nervous the house blower wasn't turning on, was that premature?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
tried it again before your post, limit switch killed the manifold, blower did not turn on...took blower out inspected wires, re-installed and now it's working...thinking I need a blower this one is on it's last leg... do you want me meter the neutral and heat term?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
tried it one last time just to get repeatability and the flue kicked on then kicked off and did that in rapid succession multiple times (rev'ing faster each time) before I killed it, flipped the switch on again and everything ran perfect...any thoughts?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
is still running ok...
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
weird no?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
the flame cut out again, killed power to the furnace, then turned it back on again the again the flue blower would spin then cut off then spin again then cut off in rapid succession...any thoughts?
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

You could also have a board failing or loose connection from all we have done.Inducer should keep 120 all the time. Check and make sure wires are making good connection from inducer to board.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I just put in a new board, that was yesterday...thinking my old board was good!!! So checked all connections (including inducer)...all seemed good, flipped the switch...went back to one flask....muddered something I won't repeat...cut power, rechecked connections, flipped power back on and everything cycled correctly... I am clueless as to what is going on!
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

Well we know that switch you bypassed and made it work needs to be replaced.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I didn't bypass anything... and connections seem to be good!
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
gonna turn on furnace see what happens!
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

My bad, I thought you had bypassed the one on blower.Let me know if furnace works now

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
weird, flue blower did the same shut off in rapid succession thing again, flipped the power off and then on, got a one flash, re-checked wires flipped back on and all seems ok...again.
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

If inducer motor is still cutting in and out we need to determine if the power is being lost from board or not.If so, Try bypassing thermostat by connecting R and W (where thermostat wires connect)on board and see if it will stay on

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
the top red and the bot***** ***** correct? Also when all seemed to be running ok, I lowered the temp on the thermostat and noticed the big blower stayed on...until I killed power to the furnace...any ideas?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
thermostat no love...even though the thermostat is set below the desired limit the flue blower turns on...hooked up the leads from the dmm to the inducer with the wires connected and I got 18v...???
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

With R and W jumped at board thermostat is out of picture so it will make no difference what it is set to. If you do not get 120 out of board to inducer with R and W jumped, we should still get a code .

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
ok, so I can get it to run (seems like I have to play with the pressure switch wires every other time the furnace runs) but when the house gets up to temp the burner cuts out but then the big blower never shuts off and the system tries to start again with the flue blower turning off and on before I cut the power... I'm getting 120 volts btw... System just wants to re-start until flip the switch and "reboot" the system!
HVAC Technician: airheatman, HVAC Technician replied 1 year ago

This s sort of sounding like you may have another bad board.I am going to open to other experts to see if they have ideas.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
tomorrow I'm gonna switch out that board for my old one and see what happens
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
an update...I did switch out my old board and the furnace would run for one good cycle, then shut off, bypassed all switches by connecting the 8 and 3 blue wires and runs fine...so obviously it's a switch, thank you for all your help! Just can't wrap my head on why one good cycle and then no love, especially when I get tone at each switch!
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airheatman
airheatman
airheatman, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 8,516
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