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Phil, Mechanical Engineer
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 6022
Experience:  Retired HVAC/ Electrical & Boiler contractor. Industrial
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I have a Triangle Tube Excellence that I had installed about

Customer Question

Hello, I have a Triangle Tube Excellence that I had installed about 6 years ago and it has been running pretty good after having to have a few small adjustments made to it right after it was installed, however my children came to me the other night complaining that their rooms were really cold and sure enough they were only 59 degrees. When I checked the furnace the readout was blinking a E04 error code, I hit the reset button and it kept showing a E02 error from that time on. It would fire up an run to heat up the water, but then it would not heat up any of the heating zones. Instead it just kept failing to stay on during burner start ups and it would go into hard lockout error code E02 after five failed attempts to start every time I would try to reset and restart the burner.
I had the gas company send out a service tech and he checked the inside and outside gas pressures and such, he said al was well and then he looked into many other possible issues. His conclusion was to replace the igniter and to possibly change out the circulator. I had another tech pull off the circulator and he said that is was clean inside and showed no evidence of failure as far as he could see. He then swapped out the old igniter with a brand new one that I just bought ( another 67 dollars spent on this boiler ). Before the burner would stay on until the water temp met it's proper temp and only shut off after five failed attempt to stay fired up to meet the home zones for heat ( with that E02 error ). Now the furnace shuts right off every time right after ( about 10 second after igniting ) the new igniter ignites a blue flame and it keeps fading out and the flame shuts off never showing any type of error code at all, instead the burner just keeps trying to restart non stop on it's own.
What can this problem be? Please help if you can, I am a single father of four kid's just trying to make ends meet and this problem is the last thing that I need right now on top of the many other expenses that I have.
Thank you so much in advance.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: HVAC
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
This site is misleading, you show the tech Phill online and ready to answer my question and communicate with me, so I paid the $45, and then your site sent me to some BS page trying to get me to do some trial for monthly rates and info, what was that all about?
Please DO NOT rip me off, just give me the CORRECT answers to solve my problem or DO NOT charge my credit card anything at all. Thank you.
Expert:  Sean replied 1 year ago.

Hey eric are you on currently?

Expert:  Phil replied 1 year ago.

Hello, the whole thing is automated to a large extend, if you do not want something offered just do not accept it.

I am an expert here, there are dozens of us. Most still working in the trade, we all come and go, I can possibly help you ... your billing questions need to be directed to 'customer service'. I have answered over 30,000 questions so far i the last 5 years.

We work here at our own expense, we loose our shirts if we stay with you too long with coaching, trouble shooting, running tests and training and you do not rate us (the expert, not the company that are upset with positively)... Let me know if you would like to continue or not.

I will be here for another hour or so tonight, the back in the morning.

Expert:  Phil replied 1 year ago.

So far it sounds like you ran into some novice service people. The symptom of firing for 5 or 10 seconds then going off points directly to a dirty flame sensor rod, or a bad printed circuit card that is is wired to.

Let me know if you a multimeter with Micro Amps on it to run a few tests or not,

We can go from there.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hello Phill, I received your reply and you mentioned the problem may be a dirty flame sensor rod. The techs at the supply house here and the one of the techs that I had here said that the flame sensor rod is part of the igniter and as I wrote, not only did we clean off the rods using the factory instruction ( this did not fix my fire up problem ), we also properly installed a completely brand new out of the box igniter ( flame sensor rod ) and my burner flame still ignites with a FULL and BRIGHT flame only to peter out after approximately 5 to 10 seconds. As I mentioned the gas in pressure is showing a healthy 7.5 in pressure to the gas valve. The techs said that the printed circuit card that you mentioned could possibly be bad is part of the whole mother board and it would cost about $800 to purchase and that in most cases has proven not to be the problem with these systems and that they think that I should check out every other much less costly avenue before considering to replace the whole board. I tell ya phill, these manufacturers truly do know how to screw us little people, LOL. I mean to make a product that can't be dissected to replace specific trouble components instead of making the products so you need to replace an entire costly assembly of smaller parts, wow, such poor design I would say and I did take engineering classes for years in my youth and I would never design anything in such a fashion.Phill, I am going to have a tech showing up here in the early afternoon around 1 pm or possibly a little bit sooner. He has a multi meter as you asked me about and I think it would be better for you to describe any trouble shooting solutions here for him to read about and preform, especially since I am not a tech and I am more mechanically inclined than electrically inclined.The tech / sales personal at the supply shop mentioned that it could possibly be an exhaust of air intake problem or obstruction including water or slime build up in the lines that might be tripping a sensor to shut down the ignition as a safety caution because some water or something else is causing the obstruction of exhaust or air. It is weird, because I do get the healthy full blue flame and then nothing right at the point the burner goes to fire up.Please leave further suggestions or test / trouble shooting spots for my tech to follow your instruction in order to check and / or rule out possible causes. I really can't afford to keep dumping more money into this fairly new boiler, especially since I am struggling to make ends meet as a single father with a dead beat mother for an ex wife.Phill, your help is appreciated much more than you could imagine. Looking forward to hearing back from you.Regards,
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Phill, as for that tech at the supply house, the plate switch with the baffle and two small tubes coming out of it with possible slime build up, my eldest son and I looked where he said they would be and there is nothing like what he described that we could even find., Just wanted to let you know that we looked for it, thanks.Eric.
Expert:  Phil replied 1 year ago.

Hello again, tell me please if this is what you have or not

We can do a heat stress test on the control module.

Use a hair drier to slowly warm the printed circuit card up to 120F or a bit warmer, but not over 140F... take 15 minutes to do this in order to saturate heat the entire module. if there is any change in the error codes or other behavior... the card has a cracked micro circuit that opens and closes as the card expands and contracts... that proves a bad printed circuit card.

The company has not published the wiring diagram or even just the connection diagram, There should be one glued to the inside of the units front cover, take a photo of that for me please, close up, straight on, well focused and well lit... use the paper clip icon at the right end of your tool bar or the 'attach files' link to the left of the send button, I can mark it up with specific tests.

No change however does not prove the card is good however... but a change proves the card is definitely bad.

Expert:  Phil replied 1 year ago.

Clarification, by 'printed circuit card' I meant to say the entire control module.