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airheatman, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 8164
Experience:  Furnace, A/C and heat pump specialist.
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I have a Rheem furnace model number RGRM-10EZAJS. the control

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I have a Rheem furnace model number RGRM-10EZAJS. the control board is not the problem. I can not get the blower motor to start. I do not want to replace the motor with out confirmation

Hello.My name is XXXXX XXXXX I will do my best to help.Troubleshooting often requires meters and test equipment.Let's get started and see what we can do!

Your issue is most likely the bell controller on the end of the motor. However the only way to accurately troubleshoot to verify is with a special DC motor tester like this.You can purchase at any hvac supply house if you do not have one.graphic

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi Tim! My name isXXXXX sorry I do not have DC motor tester. Just a multi-meter. If the problem is in the bell housing that means replacing the motor anyway?

Ryan, you can replace the controller only, but in all honesty, you can get the motor and bell controller complete for just a few bucks more. Since you have already replaced the board and know we have the constant 120v, I would replace the motor with the controller already installed.
Most of these units had a 10 year parts warranty.If you had it installed by a contractor, it may still be covered.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

The furnace was installed in 2009. So the warranty is still in tact. I would tend to agree that it is in the controller. the motor never got warm or smelled funny, like a traditional motor failure. Once you have verified you have 120volts to the motor, the only thing left is the 16 pin DC connection from the motor to the board. Its about the only thing it can be right?


That is correct. It would be rare that you had two boards bad(not sending the dc volts to the controller).
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

What would the DC tester have allowed me to do? or how would it have worked?


You disconnect the 16 pin connector from the motor and plug the 16 in connector on the tester to the controller.Then you apply 24 volts to the tester to activate it. That guarantees us that the dc current is going to the controller. If we have dc volts to controller and 120v to motor but motor doesn't run, controller or motor is the issue.It really just eliminates the board as being the issue. It is rare that the motor itself fails,and like I stated earlier, motor with controller together is just a few dollars more than just the controller. I have never replaced just the controller. Especially since they have been warranted anyway.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Thank you for your help!

Thanks for allowing me to work with you. Hope this info was helpful
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