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Drcool, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 2086
Experience:  i have been an A/C tech for the past 12 Years. working on window types, split type, and package
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I have a Mod# XXXXX=E 12K BTU A/C. The issue is that the

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I have a Mod# XXXXX 12K BTU A/C. The issue is that the unit cools as if the temp control is set at 80 though it is at the lowest setting, 66. The compressor just does not come on immediately when the unit is powered, and shuts off too early (after 5 or 10 min) when it does. This leads me to believe that the control module or thermostat need replacement or calibration. Is there a way to calibrate or trick out/bypass the temp control for a better diagnosis? I'm confident that the problem is not the overheat breaker on the compressor motor, or the 3 min delay. I've also searched parts dealers for the control mod and therm on the web but found the control mod N/A, and the thermostat (long tube w/small bubble on end) not listed at all.I also tried holding the therm between my fingers to heat it,  but it had no effect.


I'm Gina, and I’m a moderator for this topic.

We have been working with the professionals to try to help you with your question. Sometimes it may take a bit of time to find the right fit.

I was checking to see if you had already found your answer or if you still needing assistance from one of the professionals.

Please let me know if you wish to continue waiting or if you would like for us to close your question.

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Thank you,


Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Hi Gina;

Y, I'd like to fix this unit if someone can help me. Bear in mind please that I'm a first time user for your service. Having said that, I don't mind waiting at all. I'd really hate to replace what I believe is a good, strong, working unit with another, only to learn later that it could have been easily repaired. How much time might I need to wait though?


Hello Brett,

Thank you, XXXXX XXXXX continue to look for a professional to assist you. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance while you wait.




Sorry for the delay.

May I know how old is the unit?

What is the ambient temperature in your area at the moment?

Do you have a current meter that you can use to measure the actual current the unit is drawing?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Wow! At first, I'd read your handle as Drool, w/o the C, and was thinking I'm glad that I don't need to let this guy in my home! Anyway, to business.....


As for your questions, I bought the unit 3 seasons ago (I'm in NY) secondhand, and that guy is no longer with us. There's no date of manufacture on the sticker, but I think I remember running across some EER ratings on the web that put the unit at about 7 or 8 yrs old. The ambient temp in the room right now is 73, but the outside wall faces west. It gets hottest in the late aft (about 80) and the compressor does not kick in often enough. But the compressor doesn't come on even when the unit is powered on after being completely off after several days, regardless of ambient temp. I don't believe it's overheating or drawing too much current. In other words, I don't believe it's popping the circuit breaker on the compressor motor.


I'm a residential finish carpenter by trade, and I suppose I could get a meter from one of my electrician friends, but that'll take time. I've also replaced more than a few control mods as well, especially dishwashers (they break down from the steam), but I can't find a control mod for this unit. Maybe you can. While I'm on that, the model # XXXXX XXXXX provided above. The part# XXXXX the side sticker (for the unit I guess) is 88020264021056E, and the serial # XXXXX I found one MAYTAG parts dealer on the web who at least acknowledged the model#, but the control module was discontinued.


My overall question to you is this: Do you know of a way to bypass the temp control to engage the compressor directly in order diagnose it alone? Or rule out one from the other. This 12K BTU unit kicks cold as ice when the compressor engages.I'd hate to scrap it, or pay any further to replace it.



Thank you for that detailed reply.

So I think it is the electronic controller as well that is the problem since it would not turn on the compressor even if the unit has been turned off for a long time.

Usually, the temp sensor is the culprit plus the fact that it is cheaper to replace rather than the whole board.

I would assume you would have two of them.

One located in front of the evaporator coil, ( the one that cools down) and one could be inside a soldered copper pipe on the upper portion of the evaporator coil. This is what we call the anti-freeze sensor. it senses that copper pipe and if it would freeze, it would turn off the unit.

Usually, we bypass these temp sensor by replacing them with rheostats.
Rheostats can be bought from local electronics supply. They have variable resistance and to simulate the resistance of a temp sensor, we buy 0 to 20 kilohms.

Normal resistance of temp sensor is about 12k-8kohms.

That is how you can bypass the temp sensor. But if still it would not work and the problem could be the board itself, then it is time to bypass the board.

I would suggest you get the help of your electrician friend, I would be mentioning some electrical terminologies of which they could be more familiar than you.

You would need to buy a rotary switch and a mechanical thermostat for window AC from your local HVAC supplier.

You will replace the electronic controller with a mechanical one.

If you think you can do this, let me know and I will send you diagram which you can follow and could solve your issue here.

It would help me a lot if you can send pictures of the board showing the wires connected to it.
a picture of the terminals of the compressor and the wires connected to it.
a picture of the capacitors with wires connected to it,
a picture of the wires of the fan motor with the wires,

then we can one by one connect each wire to its proper places.

This would take time but I am sure, it would work.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Ok. And thank you for your detailed response. Believe it or not, I am actually off to work today. I'm involved in the re-build after Hurricane Sandy down at the Jersey shore, and i'm looking at 4 12 hr days this wk, so won't b able to work on this untill after the holiday. Will it be possible to put this on hold w/you until then?
Sure...No problem.

You can reply anytime and I will be notified with your response by the time I log back in.

Take care on the job.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Relist: Other
I listed my initial question on 6/28. I was not hooked up w/an expert, w/Drcool, until late 6/29. At that point I needed to go back to work 6/30. Right now, i'm away for the holiday weekend. BotXXXXX XXXXXne, at this point, I won't have a chance to complete my repair w/Drcool's advice until 7/12. How do I contact him directly at that time?

Just go back to thjis thread anytime.

Just like what you did today, It was relisted and I was notified that you replied to the question.

Then we can continue where we stopped.

Have a great holiday weekend.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Thanks for your timely reply. I am going out today to get the parts you specified. When I've done that, I'll contact you again
Just post what happened and I will reply as soon as I log back in .

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I was unable to locate a 0-20kohm rheostat locally. Additionally, I was unable to find an HVAC supplier open on the weekend. What was obvious from the beginning is that this is a Fedders unit, and now that I've removed the front cover and accessed the control unit, I see the circuit board with Fedders stamped on the board, and part#s on stickers - one on circuit board, and the other on it's cover - I imagine are Fedders rather than Maytag part #s, which i will use when contacting dealers tomorrow. I am reluctant to remove the entire unit from the wall sleeve (which will req moving furniture as well ) and then remove it's cover unless and until I've determined that the thermostat is or is not the problem. If it is, I imagine it would be easier to just buy the dealer thermostat, plug it into the control unit circuit board and be done with it.

Having said that, I bought a multimeter yesterday. Can I determine if the thermostat is working propperly with just that? I imagine i need to make a connection with the lead wires coming from that bubble? I've already detrrnined the right setting on my new meter. Also, how do I load pictures from my phone so you can see the circuit board and thermostat for yourself if necessary? I know how to email or SMS them, but how do i send them 2 u in this " format"?

On this box where you type your reply, use the paper clip icon to attaché pictures.

make the picture file a little bit small so it can be up loaded to the site. Use jpeg format please.

To test the thermistor, un plug it to the board and insert the probes to the two wires, may have to use staple wires first because I know the pins are very small. set the meter to 20 k, then test the probe and record the measurement.

Then remove the probe and dip it in ice cold water. observe the reading if it will change and to where it would stop after a few minutes.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
9.14 at ambient and through 20 in the ice.

So the reading is 9.14 Kohms at ambient and went up 20 kohms when immersed under ice water? is that correct?

Seems to be out of calibration but I can not be sure. Different thermistor reflects different values. Mine decreases resistance but maintains a 10 kohms reading at 0C (ice cold water).
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Y. The readings I gave you are correct. It definitely read over 20Kohms at freezing. I'm going to stop by an HVAC parts dealer after work today. Are the probes all common? One size fits all? Do I need to look for my particular connection only? Or is it definitely specific to my model?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I think maybe this has gone on long enough for whatever piece of the $30 you get for your trouble. Like I said, I'm service pro as well. I uploaded a pic of the circuit board, for whatever good that might have done, but was denied access to the JustAnswer server when I tried to send it. Is the file closed again? Do I need to re-list?


Although I have not yet been able to bring this to a satisfactory conclusion, I would be happy to give you a pos rating, (so you can be paid?) if I could only figure out how!




Sorry I was not able to reply earlier to answer your last question because we went out of town for a day.

Anyway, The probes would have different fittings, try to locate one that is like the one that you have but not definitely for the same brand and still measure it so that it has the same characteristic as yours, meaning change in the direction as your old one.

I would post this as an answer so that you can rate me and I will get paid.

Thank you very much for paying even though we have not finished working with your unit.

Anytime you wish to ask a question regarding this unit, just log back in with the site, click "my questions" and click this particular question and you can post on it again.

Again, thank you for using this service.
Drcool, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 2086
Experience: i have been an A/C tech for the past 12 Years. working on window types, split type, and package
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