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Tim H.
Tim H., HVAC Professional
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 3971
Experience:  Experienced in all aspects of HVAC, both residential and commercial.
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I have a york Hvac system for my house and it s working and

Customer Question

I have a york Hvac system for my house and it s working and cooling the house. the blower wheel came loose from the blower motor and burnt the motor out. i got a new motor and blower wheel and replace them being very careful to mark all the wire and replace them as they orginally were. I start the system up and the blower wheel is turning in the right direction and I am sure all the wires are hooked up as they were orginally but the system does not cool. The cooling system was charged this spring and nothing was disconnected as the charge would be lost. What am I missing? Waht do I need to check?
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: HVAC
Expert:  Tim H. replied 4 years ago.
Please do not rate me until we have finished our dialog and you can rate me as "excellent" service. Thanks for the opportunity to help.
So, I'm sorry you are having trouble with your system. It sounds like you had some blower problems, but have corrected them and blower is working fine, correct? If it is not cooling (but air comes through the vents), the next step is to determine if the outside condenser is running. If it is, check the suction line (the larger of the two copper lines going into unit and covered with black foam) and see if it is "beer can cold". Let me know what you find.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Blower is working fine and air is coming thru the vents and the outside condenser is running and thebig copper line is not cold.

Expert:  Tim H. replied 4 years ago.
OK, if the outside unit is running, but the large copper line is not cold, it could mean that your compressor is a) not running, or b) running, but out of charge. You will need to determine if the compressor is running. If you have a clamp on ammeter, you can put it around one of the wires and see if you get an amp reading.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I do not have a clamp on ammeter but I took the side of the outside unit off and measured aross the terminal block on the inside and I get 36 to 46 amps depending on where I measure. I am not sure if this is right? However I still do not see how I can be out of charge when the system was charge two months ago and was working fine this time yesterday and the only thing thats happen is the blower burnt out and was replaced. The outside unit is 8 years old and the inside unit is brand new.

Expert:  Tim H. replied 4 years ago.
Yeah, that reading does not sound right. You could also take the cover off over the compressor terminals and measure from one to the other. If you have 240 volts, it means the compressor should be running.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I measured the compressor terminals and they measure 240 volts but I cannot hear the compressor running. If the compressor is not running that could it be burnt out. if its running it should feel cold right?

Expert:  Tim H. replied 4 years ago.
Yes, the line should be cold, correct. Check for a bad run capacitor. Inside the unit where all the wires come in, there will be an area where all your electrical components are. Find the compressor run capacitor and see if the top is bulging or there is an oil residue in that area.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

No further info is need as the answers were not able to solve my problem and lead me to no new ground to check. Very unsatified with service and request that I not be charged for the service.

Expert:  Tim H. replied 4 years ago.
Why did you rate me bad service? We haven't even began to get through the toubleshooting process. I specifically asked you not to rate me until we were through with our dialog. I guess I just don't understand. A bad run capacitor could keep your compressor from running and still allow your condenser fan to run.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I was asked to rate you by your system in a pop up so I did I thought you had no more answers. The capacitor has not bulge and no oil showing in the area.

Expert:  Tim H. replied 4 years ago.
A capacitor could be bad and not be bulging or showing the oily residue. It can be tested with a meter that has the ability to test capacitors. The compressor could also be "stuck". This happens frequently and the way to determine this is with a clamp on ammeter. You would see the amps go way up, then drop as it went on O/L.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Sorry for the confusion. I do not have a meter to check capacitors nor do I have a clamp on ammeter. However I removed the power from the outside unit and I can hear what seems to be a hum coming from the capacitor is this normal? And when I touch the compressor it is very warm to the touch not hot but very warm.

Expert:  Tim H. replied 4 years ago.
I understand that some of these checks may be beyond what the average homeowner can do which is why we always recommend a professional do repairs. We can help many people go through a lot of troubleshooting on this site and can help them narrow down the problem. But it may still come down to (with more complicated stuff) calling in a pro. The fact that the compressor is very hot could indicate that it is drawing high amps because it is stuck. A compressor can fail to start either from a bad run capacitor (as mentioned previously) or it is physically stuck inside either through a manufacturing defect or sometimes a piece of metal can get caught. If we eliminate the simpler cause and show the capacitor is OK, then we have the more complicated one of a stuck compressor. This can sometimes be solved by putting on what's called a "hard start kit". I'm sorry if some of this is over your head, but you asked why your unit is not cooling and I'm giving you answers based on what you've told me thus far. Unfortunately, it'd be nice if everything had a simple answer like "turn this knob" or "check this wire", but that's not always the case.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

First let me say that none of this is over my head. I understand what you are asking I simply do not have the equipment to do what you are asking me to do. I live out in the country and would need to go to town to purchase the items needed to make the test. Secondly I know what a hard start kit is it is a boost to help start for the compressor. It does not seem normal for a capacitor to hum after the power has been removed. It I was quessing I would say that the capacitor is bad I know a capacitor stores energy but should not normally hum with no power attached. Do you have any other suggestions before I travel to town to get the needed equipment to make the test. 20miles

Expert:  Tim H. replied 4 years ago.
Are you sure it's not the contactor that is pulled in and "humming"? Because that would be pulled in whenever you call for cooling. I have never heard of a capacitor humming, but with a capacitor check on a multimeter can easily be checked to see if it's the right microfarad reading. There are two capacitors, one for you condenser fan (the lower microfarad reading) and another one for the compressor (the higher one). Or sometimes these are combined into one "dual capacitor".
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I have a dial capacitor so I switched the fan lead with the herm lead the capacitor started to hum and the fan would just barely run. I think it is the capacitor.

Expert:  Tim H. replied 4 years ago.
OK, well I guess you could try a new capacitor first. They are inexpensive. Or they can be checked with certain multimeter's that have a capacitor checker. As I said, commonly when a capacitor goes out, the top will bulge or sometimes they even "explode" leaving an oily residue all over inside. But this is not always the case.