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I drove through a big puddle yesterday and my car is having…

Hi, I drove through...

Hi, I drove through a big puddle yesterday and my car is having trouble staying on now. It's just stuttering and turns off after about 10 seconds.

Mechanic's Assistant: What is the model of your '10 Honda?

It's not a 2010 it's a 2002 Honda Accord 4 cyl

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Accord yourself? What have you tried so far?

Yes I will be...I haven't tried anything as this happened last night and I had work first thing this morning.

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

The car was running perfectly fine before I drove through the big puddle

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Answered in 5 minutes by:
3/7/2018
Pete
Pete, Auto Service Technician
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 33,359
Experience: Over 17 years diagnosing and repairing automobiles various makes and models with some training and certifications.
Verified

Hi, my name is ***** ***** I will be happy to assist with this today.In some cases, I may need more info to assist better.I apologize for any delay.
I am here Sundays through Thursdays from around 5 am to 2 pm Mountain time.If you respond and I do not respond back right away I will do so as soon as I can.

It sounds like water has entered an electrical connection or electronic component of the engine causing this fault here.I have seen this occur before.Unfortunately, it is difficult to say for sure from here which component this is for sure.

What needs to be done is you need to either have the fault codes checked with a compatible scan tool that can read all computers in your model to see what codes are set as this will help to locate the component at fault then that component needs disconnected and dried out to correct this issue or replaced.Or you would need to manually go through all connections on the engine ( lowest on the engine connections first ) to locate any connections with water in it and then those connections dried out.

I have seen this occur before and had to go through searching for the connection that had water in it and had to dry it out to resolve this fault.

Make sure the engine air filter isn't soaked with water as it will cause this issue and would need to be replaced.

If more help is needed, use the reply tab to continue our conversation. If no further assistance is needed, kindly rate my service, your 5-star rating is appreciated ( should be a link to click on here or above).You can rate at any time and we can continue to work on your question as this will not close out your question.I work on delivering the best answer and help here but in some cases, it can be difficult to do without seeing the vehicle.

Thanks Pete

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
I will take a look at everything when I return home tomorrow Pete. Thank you very much for you prompt response. I will let you know what I find.

Your welcome

Let me know if you need anything else and feel free to rate my help here or above ( should be a link to click on ) as this is how I receive credit for my time, this can be done at any time and you can still come back here and reply if needed.Your 5-star rating is appreciated

Thanks Pete

Pete
Pete, Auto Service Technician
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 33,359
Experience: Over 17 years diagnosing and repairing automobiles various makes and models with some training and certifications.
Verified
Pete and 87 other Honda Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Pete,I was not able to get the car up and start checking connections. However, I was able to use my OBDII scanner and got the following trouble codes: P0107 (MAP/Barometric Pressure - Circuit Low Input), P1457 (I know this is the EVAP Canister Shut Valve-questions to follow on this later since this has been an on-going issue and several mechanics still haven't been able to solve this for me), and P1106 (Barometric Pressure Sensor Range/Performance Problem - I read this can pop up due to the MAP sensor having issues). I look forward to your response.

If the map sensor has an internal issue this will cause the fault your seeing here with the running issues.It is located on top of the intake area as shown below.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4qyewo731o95hev/map-03-08.png?dl=0

I would check the connections and wiring to it for any issues.Check for any air filter restrictions or water in the air filter box.If this is all o.k. I would replace the map sensor.

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
I replaced the MAP sensor a few months ago trying to tackle the P1457 code that has been coming up for over a year now. I will check the MAP sensors connection though and get back to you. The air filter was dry when I checked it last night and there was little water anywhere when I looked around last night. We’re having such great weather here in NJ (I’m being sarcastic or course haha), but each week we don’t know if we’ll be enjoying a nice spring day, pouring rain with crazy winds, or a snow storm.

I live in Montana so I know how you feel.Were at the stage of mother nature thinking about spring but the next day deciding its still winter haha.

Let me know if you see any issues with the connections.

Thanks Pete

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Pete, I didn't see any issues with any connections. I turned the car on and it ran for almost a minute and then turned off. My guess is that MAP sensor that I purchased has gone bad. Let me know what you think.

It does sound like the issue is with the new map sensor.It sounds like it may have failed prematurely causing this fault.

Make sure there are no restrictions in the exhaust like water blocking flow as this can cause map sensor codes to set

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
That will require me to lift the car and that's just not possible right now. Hopefully when the weekend rolls around I'll be able to poke at it. I looked into the exhaust last night and it seemed clear to me. Why did I have to be so stubborn and drive through that damn puddle (SMH).

Let me know how this turns out when your ready.

Thanks Pete

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Is there a way to test the MAP sensor before I go get a new one?

Here is a diagnostic procedure I have found that should be followed to help pinpoint the sensor as the cause:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mxms6hsi13k94qm/map-03-08.pdf?dl=0

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Pete, replaced the MAP sensor and the car stays on now and I was able to drive around the block. However, after the car warmed up it’s been idling a bit rough at around 500rpm. I hit the gas to about 5000rpm and held it there for a few seconds and let it go and the rpms went down to 1000 and slowly back down and the car turned off. Do I need to clear the DTCs or disconnect the battery and reconnect it? Please advise.

I apologize for the delay.

I would try to clear the fault code with a scan tool and see if it then operates properly.If this does not work let me know.

Thanks Pete

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
No worries Pete. I appreciate your response. Could a bad EVAP Canister Shutoff Valve cause a more than usual rough idle? I got a replacement on Friday night and will be installing it today. I've had an issue with the EVAP P1457 DTC for over a year now. 3 other mechanics couldn't figure it out but I think I stumbling onto the answer last week when I was doing some research on the MAP sensor issues. Let me know what you think. Greatly appreciated!-Sly

Yes it can.If it is stuck closed this will create a vacuum in the tank which can cause this fault.

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Ok, I will replace it later this evening and let you know how it runs after that.

Sounds good

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Pete,I wrote this to another mechanic the other day but never got an answer since you weren't available, but if you could help that would be the best.2002 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl - Recently, we've been having great weather in NJ and there's been warm spring weather, flooding the next day, and then a snow storm the day after. I live near a bay and duringthe high tide there's a huge puddle that forms 2 blocks from my place which I usually go around but this time I drove through it on Sunday and Tuesday night...so twice this past week. After Tuesday, I started having a number of issues. First, my MAP sensor seemed to go bad after only 3 months (I guess that's what happens when you order a $75 part for $14 from eBay). I was able to get a replacement yesterday after narrowing down the issue and now we're back in business. Once replacing the MAP sensor and letting the car warm up, the engine started idling a bit rough as it settle down to 500rpm. I hit the gas to almost 4500rpm and held it there for a few seconds and let it go and the rpms went down to 1000, 600, 500, 300 and the car turned off. Do I need to clear the DTCs or disconnect the battery and reconnect it? Next, I've been hearing a progressively louder noise that sounds like a wheel hub/bearing going bad. I can't narrow down whether it's coming from the front left or front right but it immediately started after I went through that big puddle after Tuesday. Additionally, when I'm driving and that winding noise gets louder, as I make a left turn it gets a bit louder again, but when I make a right turn the winding noise decreases. Could that mean it's an issue with the steering gear box possibly or CV axle? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I found it and will reply to that question on the wheel noise since it is a new question I have to post to it on your new question.They re opened it for me so I can help you on that wheel noise issue.

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Sounds good to me. I will wait for your response.

Done.If you cant access it let me know.

Thanks Pete

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