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I have a 1.1A battery drain coming from the 40A fuse in

Customer Question
I have a 1.1A...

I have a 1.1A battery drain coming from the 40A fuse in position #15 under the hood called Backup ACC. The majority of that drain is going to Fuse #7 on the driver's side fuse panel (7.5A fuse labeled Backup). Need help identifying what's going on and why it just started 2 days ago

Mechanic's Assistant: Have you checked the manual yet? Most vehicles have two fuse panels.

Yes, my vehicle has at least 4 fuse panels, primary under the hood, secondary under the hood. Then a driver's side panel and a small passenger side panel

Mechanic's Assistant: What is the model of your '15 Honda?

It's a 2008 Honda Odyssey EX-L

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Odyssey yourself? What have you tried so far?

Attempting to fix on my own. But I can't isolate this problem.

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

I've tried watching amperage on the battery while I pull fuses and that's how I isolated to the 40A fuse (Backup ACC) under the hood. That fuse protects 5 other fuses in the driver's side and I pulled each of those to find that the line share of the parasitic draw is #7 Backup (7.5A fuse).

Submitted: 9 months ago.Category: Honda
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Customer reply replied 9 months ago
Details: 2008 Honday Odyssey Ex-L
Battery Drain isolated to Under-hood primary box: Fuse #15 Backup ACC 40A
When I pull that fuse the drain drops to ~50mA
Backup ACC fuse protects Fuse Positions #5-9 in Driver's side fuse panel
Isolated the majority of the drain to #7 Backup (7.5A)
Answered in 43 minutes by:
7/28/2017
Mechanic for Honda: Mechanic01, ASE Certified Technician replied 9 months ago
Mechanic01
Mechanic01, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 2,655
Experience: Owner at Baltic investments
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Hello my name is ***** ***** I will be assisting you with all of your vehicle questions today. Give me one moment while I review your question and come back with a answer. Please be aware I do not know your skill level or abilities so I will be asking a lot of questions and in a lot of cases we will respond to each other quite a lot before we find a solution. As far as phone calls are concerned that is the system prompting you, not me, and they do cost more money, I prefer text but in some cases a phone call is required.

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Mechanic for Honda: Mechanic01, ASE Certified Technician replied 9 months ago

You seem like your pretty smart but I have to ask did you wait for the system to shut down and all your doors were closed....ect ......

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Customer reply replied 9 months ago
I waited for full shut down. I disconnected the negative terminal and completed the circuit with my voltmeter measuring the amps across the circuit
Mechanic for Honda: Mechanic01, ASE Certified Technician replied 9 months ago

cool, ill get you the layout of the circuit and then we can check each component, give me just a min or 2 ill be back with that info

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Customer reply replied 9 months ago
Sounds good
Mechanic for Honda: Mechanic01, ASE Certified Technician replied 9 months ago

I just went into my database and found 100+ problems with the sliding doors thats on that circuit

1. Remove the Red/White wires from the driver side fuse box that output from the #7 fuse one at a time and see which one has the current flowing to it and trace the draw down. If one of the sliding doors is having a problem, start by addressing that problem first.

Verify both sliding doors operate, fuse #7 is backup power to the sliding door control units and if there is an issue with any micro switches with the power sliding door, it can cause a battery draw.

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Customer reply replied 9 months ago
I'm not currently behind that fuse box at the moment. I've just pulled the fuse and isolated that as a big draw down.
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