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Jared D
Jared D, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 1914
Experience:  Shop Supervisor at County Fleet
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Reverse jumper cables occurred. Battery is in good

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Reverse jumper cables occurred. Battery is in good shape...replaced. 100 main fused replaced...burned out. Nothing when attempting to start car. Dead silence. Only a few dashlights will come on...not much more. Where do I go from here?


Can you try to see if you can jump the starter and see if it will crank?

Make sure the shift lever is in N or P, then disconnect the starter subharness 1P connector (A) from the left engine compartment wire harness 1P connector (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the starter subharness 1P connector.

Try this and let me know if the starter cranks.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok....first thing in the morning when I have daylight.

Sounds good.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok. Haven't attempted car yet today due to unexpected company. But few questions: Check to see if starter will crank while on car? Remove starter from car? Do you have schematics locating the starter and solenoid?

This car has a sub-harness that is really easy to access since the starter is a little hidden on this engine.

If you jump power to the B connector in the picture I sent it should crank the starter.

You actually have to remove the intake manifold to get to the starter. It's a fantastic design. I changed one the other day though and it didn't take as long as you might think it would. I had it done in about 30 minutes even though it rates at about 1.5 hours.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
All the fuses were checked and ok. Took a jump wire from the positive battery terminal to point B in diagram with no results at all. Although battery was tested afterwards at 12.45v. Only dash light, ignition key placement warning and locks per key fob work. Dome light only worked for about 5 sec the other day. Everything else electrical is dead. Now where do I go?

It sounds like a battery issue. If you jumped power from the positive terminal straight to point B it should have cranked the starter. This bypasses every other circuit. If it didn't crank there are only two options, the starter is dead, or the battery is too weak. Since you are also having other electrical issues I would suspect a bad battery.

Or bad battery connections. The thick red cable that hooks up alongside the positive battery cable runs to the positive side of the starter.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
What would be my next step? Jumping the battery? Check the continuity of the thick red cable to the + end of the starter? Try and figure out how to remove the starter and have it tested at Auto Zone? And... is the solenoid attached to the starter?
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
What if I jumped power from a positive terminal on another running vehicle to point B?

The solenoid is attached to the starter.

Do you have some jumper cables? Try hooking up jumper cables from another vehicle to your vehicle and then try to jumper to that connector (pin B).

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
that I don't screw up. From a running vehicle, jumper cable to the car battery, then jumper wire from the red positive terminal to point B. Have someone turn the ignition? And that metallic pin within the point B being so small, is there an easy way to insure the contact?

Hook the jumper cables up to your car like normal. Check to see if the electrical systems that aren't working now start working. If not then we have a problem elsewhere if they do, that a good sign.

Then run a jumper from anywhere on the positive (jumper cable clamp, battery terminal, etc.) to the pin in point B. I use a thin gauge wire with an alligator clip on the end, but you can really use any type of wire that will fit in there. It doesn't have to be a good connection, this is just the trigger wire so only a few amps will be running through it. Also, keep in mind that you can't be shocked doing this. 12 DC volts isn't enough to overcome the resistance in your body so it can't shock you. That means you could even use a wire coat hanger as your jumper and hold it with your bare hands. Touch one end to the positive terminal and poke the other end in the connector. It won't shock you.

If the starter doesn't crank, then the starter is dead.

Also, If the jumper cables start to get warm a few seconds after hooking them up to your car from the other car then there is a short in your car somewhere and you should disconnect the cables. You will need to figure out what's causing the short.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok....I will give it a go in the morning if not later this evening. Ty

Sounds good.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Update: I decided to run through your suggestions now. Jumper cables car from my truck for about 10 min. Electrical did better but screwy. Dash lights on only when door open...not in turning ignition. Head lights yes, radio no, moon roof no, dome light yes, only half lights on the front dome, wipers and turn signals no, windows no. With the jumpers still on..was able to crank the starter with with a wire to point B. Took off jumper cables from truck...managed to get a quick crank from car poss terminal... but after a min no luck. That is the latest news to this puzzle.

Do you have a multimeter to check the voltage level of the battery?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
it was 12.45 before the jump.
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Still only key warning when place in ignition and turned. No brake lights and gear in P and not movable.

This thing is acting so weird. Maybe we need to get the BCM to reboot. Maybe disconnect the battery and leave it overnight and see what things do in the morning.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Just read your last message. I will disconnect for 8 hours then see what is up. I'll open up with a report then.
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I reconnected the battery... at 12.45 volt strength and nothing has changed from the previous note on which electrical items turn on or not. Ignition from turning the key = dead.
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Why would the electrical activity be so varied and selective?
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Where should I go from here?

Sorry, I was out and about all day saturday and I don't get on here on sundays.

There is still an electrical issue somewhere. I think from here you should check each fuse and fusible link (the big fuses) with your multimeter to see if they are bad. Use the ohm setting across the fuse pins to check for OL or high resistance.

Next try forcing a reboot of the BCM by disconnecting both battery cables and holding them together for about 1 minute. Then hook them back up to the battery like normal.

If all of the fuses look ok and the BCM doesn't reboot then I think the PCM or BCM might be fried.

Please let me know if you need additional help.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok.. car was towed into the shop. Next Friday I will report back findings either way.

Sounds good. I'll be eager to know what it turned out to be.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Turned out to be something simple. The 80/50 fuse was bad. Or more so the 50 side of the fuse was very weak. Replacing that fuse.... started right up. So both the 100 and 80/50 got burned with a reversal of jumper cables. Thanks for the direction in solving this problem!

Wow, ok. That makes sense. It's crazy that it was just weak and it was causing the problem. It must have just barely lost connection.

Please let me know if you need help in the future.

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