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HondaPlatinum
HondaPlatinum, A Technician
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 11334
Experience:  13 year honda platinum level
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2001 Civic 1.7 liter crank but no start. Let me give you the

Customer Question

2001 Civic 1.7 liter crank but no start. Let me give you the time line on this. the problem started as I was traveling down the interstate and the air conditioning clutch pulley came completely off and somehow caused the timing to be thrown. I didn't know this at the time but I took it to a mechanic who changed the timing belt and try to crank it and concluded that the engine continued to run after the timing had been thrown thereby damaging the head and that the cylinder head had to be replaced. It's an older car so I had to decide whether I wanted to invest more money into it or just take my complete loss. I decided that maybe I could replace the head myself with one that I got from the pull apart Place, so that's what I did. After all of the work involved with that I set the timing belt and put everything back on and the car was a hard start but it did start so I felt good about the head job and the timing being done properly. However, it started out that I had an intermittent no start problem where it would start every once in awhile and then at other times not start and then at times it would start and then mysteriously just stall out. From the beginning I noticed the check engine light was on so I got a scanner and got a code on the crank position sensor. So I replaced that at a cost of $80 and a lot of work getting the crank pulley off and cranked it but I had the same intermittent no start problem. Since then now I have a code related to the idle air sensor but it's my understanding that would not create a no start situation but I could be wrong about that, and I'm speculating that it's the result of a vacuum leak somewhere from perhaps a hose that I never got reconnected. Anyway now when I crank it it doesn't ever start. I have not begun any sort of troubleshooting to determine if it's a lack of fuel or a lack of spark or perhaps the ECM is not giving out the right signal to allow to allow a start. So I need someone to walk me through the troubleshooting phase of this so we can identify what exactly the problem is.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Honda
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

Hi Im David. first thing is a compression test. nothing else until that is done.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK here are the results:
1. 170psi
2. 160psi
3. 170 psi
4. 170 psi
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

ok. thats good. next up we need to make sure all 4 cylinders are getting spark.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK it's raining but I'll check as soon as possible
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

ok, sounds good. just let me know

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Not sure I can work on it until this weekend. Just letting you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Knows
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Know
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

ok.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK. Sorry if I'm a little long-winded but I'm going to try to explain what's going on. When I went to test for spark I noticed that when I turn the key to the on position the check engine light flickers rapidly and makes a little clicking noise. When I tested it for spark in this condition and I had no Spark. So I hooked up this little on board diagnostic tool I have and noticed that the check engine light went off and the scan tool registered no codes. I also noticed that as soon as the scan tool was disconnected the flickering check engine light would happen. So just to experiment around I hooked the scan tool up and tried to crank it and sure enough it cranked up. Moreover as it was running I disconnected the scan tool and the car immediately stalled and the flickering light came on. What do you think?
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

ohhh k.......time to check the out puts at the dlc......pins 4&5 should be ground. pin 7 should have 3.5 with key off. pin 16 should be B+

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK so I'm checking it where the scan tool plugs in? Can you send me a diagram on how to identify the PIN numbers and you say pin 16 should be b+? Do you mean 12-volt DC positive?
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

yes, pin 16 is battery voltage.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK I got continuity on 4 and 5 to ground. I got battery power on 16. Pin 7 had 3.9mv
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

did you check pin 7 with the key off?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
All of the above readings were with key off
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

ok, then there is a problem with the k line

Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

i need to pull a print to see whats keeping that voltage down

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

havent forgot about ya

Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

disconnect the abs module to see if that lets voltage comeup

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No sir. Still in millivolts.
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

http://84.22.143.158/files/%D0%A0%D1%83%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B2%D0%B0/%D0%98%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%BC%D0%B0%D1%80%D0%BA%D0%B8/Honda/civic%202002-2003.pdf

go to 11-109 it gives you all the info on that connector

Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

itll be the same for 2001

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK . Just to be clear are you suggesting that I perform all this troubleshooting?
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

yes. i cant do it for you. hope fully you will run across a test that fails to lead you in the right direction

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
David,
I'm beginning to think it's the ecu. Here's why. I started the car with the scan tool hooked up (the only way to start it) and watched as the temp gauge climbed almost to the top. The fan never came on so I cut the motor and tested the fan with direct voltage and it worked and tested the relay the contacts closed the way they're supposed to. I tried it again and put the meter on the coil of the relay to see if it was getting voltage and it's not so it's not getting a signal from the ECU. Do you think a bad ECU could explain all this odd behavior?
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

very very much so

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Okay I'm going to go down to pull apart and see if I can get one and let you know
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

ok brother

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I just noticed something in the manual. If I switch the ECM out for another one from the junkyard am I going to have an issue with the immobilizer?
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

probably need to grab the immobilizer too.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK sorry but not sure what you mean:. What is it and Where it's at ?
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

the immobilzer is a little black box probably behind the center console. ill try to find a drawing

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thank you that would be great
Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

actually on your car its built into the ignition switch assembly

Expert:  david craig replied 1 year ago.

and you'll need the key that went to that ignition switch asembly. or have the computer reprogrammed to your VIN, that way you wouldnt need the immobilizer or key.