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I have a 1998 Honda Accord that runs well, then quits and…

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I have a 1998 Honda...
I have a 1998 Honda Accord that runs well , then quits and starts after allowing it to cool down. Actually, it may take longer to start or at times starts up right away. The fuel pump was replaced and the spark is not present and fuel pump does not run if it quits. Could it be the distributor igniter?
Submitted: 2 years ago.Category: Honda
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Answered in 1 minute by:
1/26/2016
Mechanic for Honda: Jared D, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
Jared D
Jared D, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 2,219
Experience: Shop Supervisor at County Fleet
Verified

Which engine does your accord have? 4 cylinder or 6?

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Mechanic for Honda: Jared D, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago

How much diagnosis/repair are you going to do yourself?

Do you have a multi-meter?

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
It has the 4 cylinder engine and I checked for fuel operation; found out the fuel pump had been replaced by someone else, when it starts, I can hear the fuel pump run and when it does not start, the fuel pump does not run. I do not have a multi meter; no spark when it does not start.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
at the moment,it will not start, cranks over, but no start
Mechanic for Honda: Jared D, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago

It's most likely a problem with the distributor assembly. To be sure you would need to check the following with a multi-meter:

1. Verify that the coil and igniter have good battery voltage on the Black/Yellow wire.

2. Next, verify that the Yellow/Green wire from the igniter to the Engine Control Module (ECM) has 6.0 volts or higher. This voltage is sent from the igniter and the Engine Control Module (ECM) will pulse the voltage to ground to create spark. If the voltage is OK, use a dwell meter or a lab scope and backprobe the Yellow/Green wire. Look for 10 to 12 degrees of dwell, cranking on the 4-cylinder scale or a nice square wave signal on a lab scope.

3. If the dwell is correct or square wave signal is correct, check the coil negative and it should have the same dwell reading or a primary ignition pattern. If there is no dwell on coil negative, the igniter is faulty. If there is low dwell on coil negative, the coil and igniter are faulty. Always inspect for a faulty distributor cap and rotor.

If you don't have a multi-meter, or don't want to mess with electrical testing, I would just replace the distributor.

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Mechanic for Honda: Jared D, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago

Do you think this is something you will tackle on your own?

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I removed the distributor cap and see a coil that goes into cap and a module beside coil. The wires are worn out and probably lost their color. Can you send a pic of inside parts of distributor so I can locate correct wires for testing?
Mechanic for Honda: Jared D, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago

Here is a breakdown of the distributor parts. Let me see if I can find a wiring diagram. It's rare that technicians replace parts inside the assembly due to the ease of replacement of the entire distributor.

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Mechanic for Honda: Jared D, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago

Here is the wiring diagram.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Okay, looking down on the distributor, with the dist cap off, I see a black/yellow wire next to a solid yellow /black wire on the coil.
The black/yellow wire has battery voltage; is the wire next to it (yellow/black) has battery voltage, too. Where is the yellow green wire from igniter to ECM located? I need to check for 6.0 volts or higher.
Mechanic for Honda: Jared D, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago

I just wanted to check and see if you need any additional information.

Please rate if you no longer need any assistance.

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