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George H.
George H., ASE Certified Technician
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 18761
Experience:  ASE Master Tech 15+ years
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2000 honda accord: o2 sensor..hood..check engine light..the egr, cat

Customer Question

i have a 2000 honda accord, yesterday i changed the o2 sensor under the hood in an effort to get my check engine light to turn off so as to get thru inspection, well no luck the light went off for about 10 mins and came back on, the code from the inspection report tells me that its my primary o2 sensor for the heating system, is the "primary" sensor the one under theh hood or the one in the side of the cat? also i had several of the emmissions components come back "not ready" such as the egr, cat, and couple of others, is that from pullin the check engine fuse to try and reset the light and not giving the car enough time to rebot before the inspection?
Submitted: 8 years ago.
Category: Honda
Expert:  George H. replied 8 years ago.

Hello I will help you with your question,

 

The primary O2 sensor is the one you can access from the top of the engine

 

graphic

 

You will have to perform two "drive cycles" to have all the I/M monitors set as ready. If a code sets before the monitors are ready they will stop running until reset and you start the process over again. The monitors will be not ready once you pull the ECM fuse and the drive cycle will have to be compleded again

 

There is a TSB for code P0133 if that is what set

 

00-017

December 17, 2002

Applies To:
1998-02 Accord DX and L4 EX/LX LEV - ALL

 

MIL Comes On With DTC P0133
(Supersedes 00-017, dated September 11, 2001)

 

Updated information is shown by asterisks and black bars.

SYMPTOM

The MIL comes on with DTC P0133 (primary heated oxygen sensor slow response).

PROBABLE CAUSE

*Some brands of fuel and/or fuel additive packages may create deposits at the fuel injector tips. This build-up may cause slight air/fuel deviations between each cylinder. Build-up of these deposits, when coupled with very specific driving conditions, may cause the MIL to come on and the PCM to store DTC P0133.*

CORRECTIVE ACTION

Replace the primary heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) and the fuel injectors.

For 1998-2000 models only: Compare the vehicle's ECM/PCM part number to PARTS INFORMATION. If the numbers do not match, replace the ECM/PCM.

 

Let me know what help I can provide to get you ready for inspection

 

Thank you

 

 

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
<p>the code was p1167 primary heated o2 sensor heater system malfunction, could that have been caused by tryin to reset the system? or is that the o2 sensor itself giving me that code? prior to replacin the o2 sensor i did replace i was getting a p1166 code also but that one cleared after replacing the sensor. i wonder if the sensor in the cat is giving me the p1167 code. the repair manual dosent distinguish the two sensors with diffrent codes and thats why im having trouble figuring out which sensor is giving the code. once i complete the drive cycles the "not ready" errors should go away correct?</p>
Expert:  John G. replied 8 years ago.
Hi, have you checked any of the fuses?
Did you install a Honda O2 sensor? Those codes are both for the primary O2. The rear one would have a different code.
Expert:  George H. replied 8 years ago.

John G raises good questions.

 

Here is a copy of the drive cycle for your vehicle once we determine what sensor you have the issue with

 

Completing the Drive Cycle successfully one (1) time should reset most drive cycle monitors to a "Ready" status. However, there are "two trip" monitors, which require that the drive cycle be successfully completed two (2) times, to achieve a "Ready" status. Furthermore, systems which use averaging, may require the drive cycle to be completed more than 2 times.

Verify the status of the readiness monitors with the appropriate function of your scan tool.

NOTE: Certain vehicles have known OBD-II Readiness issues. Please be sure to review TSB's for special circumstances and or exceptions to readiness monitor resetting procedures.

Before Beginning the Drive Cycle
Check the status of the Readiness Monitors, check for DTC's, correct faults, clear DTC's before beginning the Drive Cycle.

Begin Drive Cycle
The vehicle should be driven approximately 7.5 miles within a period of approx. 23 minutes (1372 seconds) from a cold start. However, due to manufacture variations, it is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a "Ready" status. Operate the throttle smoothly to obtain best results. Do not shut the engine off during the drive cycle.

CAUTION: Obey all traffic laws and drive in a safe manner!

NOTE: Extreme driving conditioning such as very high/low temperatures, rough roads and high altitudes may prevent some monitors from attaining a "Ready" status.

Step 1(Engine Cold) Start engine, idle 20 seconds. Accelerate gradually and drive at 20-25 mph for 1 minute, varying speed.
Step 2Accelerate gradually to 32 mph within 35 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 40 seconds.
Step 3Accelerate at part throttle to 25 mph in 10 seconds. Cruise at 17-25 mph for 15 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 57 mph in 45 seconds. Cruise at 50-56 mph for 1 minute. Decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 40 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.
Step 4Accelerate at part throttle to 36 mph and maintain for 10 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.
Step 5Accelerate to 30 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 20 seconds.
Step 6Accelerate to 36 mph inXXXXXat 35 mph for 20 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle 5 seconds.
Step 7Accelerate gradually to 26 mph and decelerate to 0 within 40 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.
Step 8Accelerate to 27 mph in 40 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 25 seconds.
Step 9Accelerate to 26 mph in 15 seconds, maintain speed for 10 seconds, decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.
Step 10Accelerate to 23 mph in 20 seconds, decelerate to 0.5 mph in 10 seconds (no complete stop). Accelerate to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 35 seconds.
Step 11Accelerate gradually to 34 mph in 45 seconds. Vary speed between 34 and 19 mph for 2 minutes. Decelerate from 25 to 0 mph in 25 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.
Step 12Accelerate to 29 mph in 15 seconds, decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 45 seconds. Idle for 30 seconds.
Step 13Accelerate gradually to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 50 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 27 mph and back to 0 mph within 55 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.
Step 14Accelerate to 24 mph and back to 0 mph within 18 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 22 mph and back to 0 mph within 50 seconds. Idle for 8 seconds.
Step 15Accelerate gradually to 30 mph within 50 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 25 seconds.
Step 16Accelerate to 23 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds.
Step 17Repeat steps 1 - 16 once again. Recheck the status of the "Readiness Monitors".

NOTE: Remember, clearing DTC's or interrupting power to the ECM after the readiness monitors have been reset to "Ready" will require that the Drive Cycle be repeated.

Completing the Drive Cycle successfully one (1) time should reset most drive cycle monitors to a "Ready" status. However, there are "two trip" monitors, which require that the drive cycle be successfully completed two (2) times, to achieve a "Ready" status. Furthermore, systems which use averaging, may require the drive cycle to be completed more than 2 times. It is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a "Ready" status.

End Drive Cycle

 

Sorry but I have been busy today and have not had time to get this to you

 

Usually the heater code is the sensor itself, if you used a Honda sensor and not a "universal" sensor the code will be cleared from current once the monitor runs successfully

 

 

If you have a voltmeter to check the heater voltage supply we can move forward with this

 

Let me know