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lorunner, Auto Service Technician
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 1070
Experience:  13yrs honda tech, 18yrs in the business, ASE certified, honda school and training
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2000 honda accord how do check to see if vtec solenoid is bad

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2000 honda accord how do check to see if vtec solenoid is bad

Is it a V6 or a 4cyl?

What makes you think its bad?

Customer: replied 10 years ago.
Reply to lorunner's Post: 4 cyl.....recently changed out stock fuel rails to AEM high flow fuel rail car seems to bog down and wants to redline at 3500 to 4000 rpms went to advanced auto parts to run a dtc code and came up with P1259 advanced said its a fuel air metering however techs from says its the vtec solenoid

Have you checked the oil lately? low oil can cause this code. Check it and make sure its full first.

There is a resistance test. Disconnect the connector for the Vtec solenoid. At the Vtec oil pressure switch disconnect it.

Check for continuity between both pins of the switch. If there isnt than the switch is bad. If there is continuity than turn the key on and measure voltage at the Blue/Black wire and ground at the Vtec pressure switch connector and ground. If there isnt the vtec pressure switch is bad.

If there is 12 volts than go ahead and measure voltage accross the 2 pins at the Vtec pressure switches connector(harness side) If there isnt than isnt its possible its a bad PCM.

If there is voltage turn the ignition off. Disconnect the solenoids connector and measure for continuity between the wire that goes to the solenoid and ground. There should be between 14-30 Ohms. If there isnt than the Vtec solenoid is bad.

If there is between 14-30 Ohms. than we are goung to have to measure oil pressure.

Let me know if this helps or if you need more info.

Customer: replied 10 years ago.
what does continuity mean i have a volt meter is it supposed to be open or closed?
When you check for continuity Some testers have a function where have it so there is a beep when there is continuity. But if you set your meter to the ohms scale. Doesnt really matter which one and touch the red and black lead together. The reading should go from 1 . To 0.0000. Thats how you know there is continuity. If you place the black probe on the negative terminal of the battery and touch the red probe to the motor, or a ground wire on the motor it will show 0.000. That tells you that there is a closed curcuit from one lead to the other. If the motor was totally insulated from the body of teh car there would be no change on teh meters scale.
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Customer: replied 10 years ago.
ok so that didnt work all checked out fine could it be my mass air flow sensor?

What didnt work?

where did you conclude with the tests.

Did you check the oil level yet?

Customer: replied 10 years ago.
continuity check good, voltage check good, oil level good, ran fine for 8 mins or so, then loss of power bogging and car does not want to go past 4000m rpms then drops to 3000 rpms very quickly several times
Does it feel like its hitting the reve limiter?
Customer: replied 10 years ago.
yes at 4000 but it suppose to hit it at 6200

You could remove the vtec solenoid and there is a screen. Check to see if there is any debris in the screen. If there is clean it and try again. If not i would replace the vtec solenoid and the switch

Customer: replied 10 years ago.
is the screen inside where the solenoid sits?
Its actually part of the gasket that seals the Solenoid to the head
Customer: replied 10 years ago.
ok so if this is not the problem any idea on what else it might be?
If its not clogged than it could be the vtec solenoid. There is a valve that operated and opens to supply the raocker assembly with oil pressure to engage it into Vtec. It could be stuck.
Customer: replied 10 years ago.
1 last question before i close up shop for the night could this problem be cause by the new fuel rail?

Was it happening before you put it in?

I was going off of the code p1259 that you told me you have. Did the check engine light come on before or after you put the rail in?

Customer: replied 10 years ago.
no it wasnt but i had my car sit for 2wks with out my valve cover being painted and the check engine light has been on becauseof a bad o2 sensor that got messed up when i changed my exhaust over to my 4-2-1 headers
You could try to switch the rail back and see if it cures the problem. Does that rail have an adjustable regulator also ?
Customer: replied 10 years ago.
no it came seperate which i did not buy i have herd it causes problems but it is suppose to work with stock reg.
I highly doubt that replacing the fuel rail caused a problem.
Customer: replied 10 years ago.
i was just making sure i will have to check the problem tomorrow and play with the solenoid thx
Sure thing.
Customer: replied 10 years ago.
ok so i checked and cleaned that filter everything seems to look and all continuity is ok still same problem besides my valve knocking
Did you try puting the rail back the way it was? still dont think it matters but before condeming the valve its worth a shot.
Customer: replied 10 years ago.
i would but some 1 stole it off my porch yesterday so i cnt

Ok well from her on in is where it gets difficult. Basically we need to watch the oil pressure. But in order to do that we need a special "Y" fitting. The Y goes where the pressure switch was and the gauge and the switch screw into it. Now we need a scanner. Basically what we are looking for is at low RPM the switch will be on and the Vtec solenoid will be off. once the perameters are met the two will switch.

To be honnest. What i would do is clear the code and drive the car. See if you can get it to recode. If a P1259 comes back than i would replace the entire valve assly and the switch.

Customer: replied 9 years ago.
would i use a gague like a faze oil pressure gague because if i can use it im just goning to get the faze gague oil pressuer and the oil pressure gague as well

Doesnt really matter which gauge you use as long as there is a "Y block that both the switch and the gauge can screw into.