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I was watching tv last night and my Rx-v371 shut down and…

Customer Question
I was watching tv...

I was watching tv last night and my Rx-v371 shut down and wouldn’t turn back on. I have tried the tone-straight-power reset, it clicks, but still won’t turn on

Technician's Assistant: Are there any lights on your RX-V371 that are lit or blinking?

Nothing

Technician's Assistant: Have you tried resetting your speaker?

Ive disconnected everything except power cable

Submitted: 6 months ago.Category: Home Theater-Stereo
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Answered in 11 minutes by:
1/8/2018
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago
Louie
Louie, Technician
Category: Home Theater-Stereo
Satisfied Customers: 13,429
Experience: Have been in the business 25+ yrs., down to component level.
Verified

Hi and welcome to JustAnswer. My name is ***** ***** I'll be assisting you with your question regarding your Yamaha RX-V371.

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Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Initially, other than the 'click', does it appear to be completely / electrically dead?

And as this almost always is an internal hardware issue, are you then considering a DIY (do-it-yourself) repair approach? If yes, do you have access to and familiarity with a multi-meter and even a soldering iron?

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Other than the click, there is nothing. I am comfortable with DIY projects. I have a multimeter, I currently don’t have a functional electronics soldering Iron, only a 700/800 W soldering iron I use for stained glass. I am guessing that isn’t so great for this
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
I can easily get a soldering Iron for this if need
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Yes, a lower wattage (30~40Watts) soldering would serve the purpose.

Great on the DIY!
When able, please post back with clear pictures of the internal circuitry/boards. Click HERE.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/help/how-do-i-send-photo-or-file-expert-hl
These pictures would then serve as common references allowing me to see what you are seeing.

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Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Check the squarish circuit board rear left. It would be the standby circuit.

Initially, let's try check and review the standby circuit/voltages. Proposed preliminary tries (if have not been done):

  • • presence and consistency of +9.9V at the emitter of Q1503 (if present);
  • • or at the cathode of zener diode D1501;
  • • then for +7.5V at the cathode of diodes D1508 and D1509;
  • • and +3.0V at 1 end of resistor R150 and then +1.2V at its other end when attempting to turn on the RX-V371.

Post back results / observations of the above once tried.

A friendly reminder: voltage measurements by its very nature requires that the unit be plugged in and turned on. It is therefore LIVE! Please exercise due care and caution.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Those elements aren’t on that board. There are diodes at 1503, 1504, 1506, 1507. There’s a capacitor, a jumper, and transistor at 1501 and no resistors that I see. There’s nothing labeled 1508 or 1509. This is the board labeled OPE3?
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Appreciate the clearer picture/s.

Have you checked the trace side?

And yes, that would be R1501.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
pop the board out?
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ok, they’re labeled on the trace side ... oops
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

This board has both hot and cold sides. It therefore has a LIVE circuit; i.e. directly connected to the mains. Always! as long as plugged in.

I'll check again a bit later for updates. Going mobile for field work.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ok
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
I need to go do family stuff. I hope we can continue tomorrow. Thanks.
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
One last question for tonight. What is the best/easiest place to put the com probe?
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

The last pin/wire of CB151.

Or if using an alligator clip with wire, the cathode of D1504 or D1507.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Q1503 - 8.9 V
D1501 - 8.9 V
D1508 and D1509 - 4.4 V
R1501 - 4.4 V both sides
Am I doing something incorrectly, or is are the voltage differences indicative of a problem?
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Those were taken from the cathode of D1507
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Appreciate the update.

On the above results:

  • Q1503 - 8.9 V and D1501 - 8.9 V - standby voltage is present even if a bit low;
  • hence check capacitors C1501 and C1503;
  • D1508 and D1509 - 4.4 V - too low...try use the anode of D1504 and/or D1507;
  • R1501 - 4.4 V both sides - only when attempting to turn on? ...or always? ...this is critical!
  • is the relay SW151 engaged?
  • thus, is there 120V AC at connector CB155 feeding the main transformer ?
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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
C1501 - 8.9 V
C1503 - 8.9 V; both are (-) 1/2 on the other side
R1501 is showing (-)4.4 V (oops) and goes to (-)4.0 V when the power button is pushed. It’s doing this regardless of side tested.
Read D1508 and D1509 from D1504, both read 8.8 V
There is no reading across the two pins of CB155 ; is SW151 the relay that is clicking when try to do the — tone control/straight/power reset?
There is ~117V AC running across the two right pins of SW151 (the two that are askew) of the relay and across the upper right pin of SW151 and CB155
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Yes; this relay with its contacts act as the 'switch' to turn on the main transformer. When engaged, there should be no AC voltage "...across the two right pins of SW151 (the two that are askew) of the relay ..."

It would appear that this relay is not engaging (consistently). Possibly:

  • failed transistor Q1501 (least likely);
  • relay / contacts faulty (likely);
  • an issue with the ...R1501 is showing (-)4.4 V (oops) and goes to (-)4.0 V... (most likely).

Are the voltages read at both ends of R1501 - Volts?

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
they are reading negative Volts at both end or R1501
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Bear with me, let's re-check but this time, try use the anode of D1504 and/or D1507 as reference ground.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
From the anode of D1507:
D1508 and D1509 are both at 8.7 V
D1501 is 12.7/ V
Q1503 is 13.3 V
R1501 is 0.0 V
From the anode of D1504 I am getting
D1508 and D1509 at 4.4 V
D1501 is 8.3 V
Q1503 is 8.8 V
R1501 is -4.3 V
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Sorry, confused...

I re-checked the schematic diagram and the anodes of D1504 and D1507 are both tied to the same common ground hence the above re-checked readings are conflicting.

Please click HERE (if have not viewed).

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ok, rechecking, probably messed something up
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ok, I am going to have to put this on hold. I am being called for dinner. Thank you for you pr patience and help so far. I’ll be back later or tomorrow, depending.
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

I understand; likewise would have to play husband and father.

And when conveniently able, please click HERE.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ok, had D1504 completely wrong. New readings...D1508 and D1509 are both at 8.6 V
D1501 is 12.5V
Q1503 is 13.1 V
R1501 is 0.0 VFrom the anode of D1504 I am getting
D1508 and D1509 at 8.6 V
D1501 is 12.5 V
Q1503 is 13.1 V
R1501 is 0.0 VJust to make sure, the three resistors R1503, R1502, R1501 run left to right from the left edge of the board, then the labels R1503 to R1501? All three of those resistors are cold
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

It would appear then that there is no voltage driving R1501/Q1501 to enable relay SW151 hence the RX-V371 is not fully turning on.

Possibly; low or missing secondary voltage(s) and/or CPU is kicking in auto-protect mode.

With the unit unplug, trace/follow the 4 black wires from this standby power supply board to where it connects to. Check solder points and wire continuity.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Solder point are conducting through to the board labeled OPE2 with all the capacitors on it
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

On OPE(2) board, check:

  • +7.5V @ the base of transistor Q1301;
  • +9.9V @ pin 1 of regulator IC131;
  • +3.4V @ pin 2;
  • +1.5V @ pin 4;
  • then follow the black wire connected to R1501 of OPE(3) through OPE(2) thence to DIGITAL_CB262;
  • this wire is critical as it is from the CPU telling the standby power supply board OPE(3) to energize the relay, switch on its contacts and power the main transformer.

As before: voltage measurements by its very nature requires that the unit be plugged in and turned on. It is therefore LIVE! Please exercise due care and caution.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
I have voltages for IC131:
Pin 1 : 13.3 V
Pin 2 : 3.3 V
Pin 4 : 1.5 V
Pin 3 is cold
Now, do you have a suggestion on how to get the board out to find that transistor? Three of the screws (the ones holding the metal clips) are frozen
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Have you considered / tried a lubricant? ...WD40?

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Yeah, it’s soaking right now. I keep reapplying and letting it penetrate.
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Yes please.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
It’s Friday evening. If you’re around, great, if not, understand.
Q1301 is at 8.7 V
So, I have voltages for IC131:
Pin 1 : 13.3 V
Pin 2 : 3.3 V
Pin 4 : 1.5 V
Pin 3 is cold
From R1501 to board OPE2, 2 of the pins are hot. Going to CB262, some of the connectors at at the end of the ribbon are at 3 V some are at 0.3 V and some are cold.
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 6 months ago

Of particular interest would be pin 13 of 52151/CB262. This is the CPU trigger +3.0V through R2368 when attempting to turn on the Yamaha. This +3.0V is then sent to R1501 of OPE(3). Absence of this +3.0V would indicate that the CPU is not providing this trigger.

If confirmed absent, then we would have to shift our next checks to the presence/absence of voltages and conditions of the output transistors attached to the large heatsink.

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Hi. I have not abandoned this project, been under the weather.Pin 13 (PWR-RY?) is cold.
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 5 months ago

I understand and hope that you are feeling better.

Still and as posted above, the absence of this +3.0V (PWR_RY) would indicate no trigger from pin 84 of the CPU.

Check for +3.3V @ pin 15 of CB101 of the OPE(1) board.

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
The two screws next to each other (p19 tech manual, labeled #10) holding the left side of OPE1 (as oriented in the picture) refuse to budge. WD40 from both side multiple times. Would it be really bad to drill them out? Or, should I just keep working at loosening them?
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 5 months ago

Drilling the screws is acceptable/doable.

The major concern would be slipping and inadvertently causing drill hole/damage on the board itself.

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Technician: Louie, Technician replied 5 months ago

Please see p. 81, grid location B9 (bottom left), last pin on the left; # 15

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
Ok, turns out I am a moron. You wrote OP1 board. My brain translated that to the main board; it’s not on the main board.Anyhoo, pin15 of CB101 is cold.
Customer reply replied 5 months ago
OPE1 no OP1
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 5 months ago

Hi again,

I understand.

On OPE(2) board, the finding was "...have voltages for IC131...Pin 2 : 3.3 V..." which is +3.3M (p.82/B-8)

On OPE(1) board, the finding was "...pin15 of CB101 is cold..." which is also a +3.3M (p.81/B-9)

Somehow, the +3.3M volts is gone missing!

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Customer reply replied 5 months ago
if there is a loss of current that isn’t obvious, wha5 is the next step?
Technician: Louie, Technician replied 5 months ago

The next step would be to check/trace where the +3.3M has gone missing.

Follow / trace the connection of pin 15 @ p.81/B-9 to where it leads to; i.e. to the Digital board 2/4 p.78/B-2.

This +3.3M was supplied to this board through pin 11 of CB262 (p.80/F-10) from IC131's pin 2 through CB131 (p.82/B-8)

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