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I'm putting 1inch oak tread on my stairs and 5/16 cortec on…

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I'm putting 1inch oak tread...
I'm putting 1inch oak tread on my stairs and 5/16 cortec on my landing so how should I cut my stringer
Submitted: 1 month ago.Category: Home Improvement
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Answered in 3 hours by:
3/26/2018
Home Improvement Expert: Thomas, General Contractor replied 30 days ago
Thomas
Thomas, General Contractor
Category: Home Improvement
Satisfied Customers: 33
Experience: Owner/ Vice President
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Hi and thank you for using JA! To be quite honest, this is one of those questions that may be easier to do than to explain. The basis for my statement is that there are some basic nuances to cutting your stringer that require some level of basic understanding and techniques to laying this out. The International Residential Code (IRC) requires minimum standards for your rise and run. The actual slope of your stringer and actual length and height of your run and rise will be determined by the distance from the top of your finished floor to the top of the finished landing. That said, the MAXIMUM standard for a rise is 7 3/4" and the MINIMUM standard for a run (tread depth) is 10". If you are using a 1" oak tread, you will cut you stringer with a maximum depth of 7 3/4" (1" on top of the bottom for the tread and 1" on top for the top tread). Your FIRST cut at the top will depend on how you finish your floor at the top landing. I typically butt my top riser to the top of my subfloor, meaning the top of my first tread (assuming 1" in your case) plus the thickness of my finish floor (let's assume 5/16" COREtec) would mean my top riser cut is 8 7/16" (when you add the 1" oak on the first step + 5/16" COREtec that gives you the 7 3/4" MAX standard). So, 8 7/16 - 1" is 7 7/16" plus the 5/16" COREtec gives you the 7 3/4" MAX. Depending upon how much "room" you have at the bottom of the steps (you need at least 3' from the bottom step to a wall, may give you some latitude to make a more gradual slope (less than 7 3/4" riser), but 7 3/4" is pretty standard. If you are tight at the bottom with less than 3' with a 7 3/4" riser, you may need to consult a building official for a code variance if necessary. Some jurisdictions will allow an 8 1/4" rise and a 9" run. Keep in mind, the "run" is calculated from the edge of the stair nosing, i.e. the overhang of the tread. You do not necessarily need an overhang, EXCEPT...treads that are less than 11" deep, according to IRC need a minimum 3/4" overhang and a maximum 1 1/4" overhang. For the most part, standard treads are 11 1/2" deep from end of nosing to back of tread. Your riser "cut" will depend on the type of tread you are using. Some treads are flush, a standard 1" thick from back to front. Some treads, retrofit style treads, are 3/4" thick to the nosing which is 1" thick. Form the back of the tread to where the nosing starts, will determine the "run" cut on your stringer. The 1" depth of the tread will determine your overhang. I know this might sound a bit confusing, but that is why I prefaced with saying it is easier to do than to explain. It is always good to start by taking your overall dimensions, length of stair run and total height from top of unfinished floor to your unfinished floor at the bottom of the steps, add in your tread thickness and cut your stringer appropriately. The cuts at the bottom and the top will be your different height cuts depending upon your finished floor height (thickness of your finished floor material, COREtec, tile, hardwood, etc.) at the top and bottom of the steps. The riser height for the rest of the steps should be standard, i.e. 7 3/4" since you are adding 1" on each tread. I know this is a lot of information, but I hope this has been helpful. Thank you again for using JA!

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