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MsBabyD, Building Inspector
Category: Home Improvement
Satisfied Customers: 62
Experience:  31 years experience Certified home inspector with 34 specialty certifications.
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What is the correct type of paint to cover a foam roof with,

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What is the correct type of paint to cover a foam roof with, please?

I have an offer from my roofing company to pressure wash and then to repaint the foam roof they installed 5 years ago. The company wants $3500 to cover an area approximately 2000 square feet (1500 square foot house with overhangs of the roof). If I take the deal they will extend their warranty from 15 years to 30 years.

I thought $3500 was a bit steep, so I pressure washed the roof today.

Now I'm looking for the paint. Please, can you direct me to a brand name, type and supplier? I'm in zip code 94306.



MsBabyD :

Hello! I am here to help you with any questions you may have.

MsBabyD :

Hi J,

MsBabyD :

You have already spray washed the roof. But I want to go over a few things just incase you came over them while you where spray washing.

MsBabyD :

1.You will want to recoat your foam roof if you live in the Phoenix area in late March, April, May, early June, October, and early November. You don’t want it to be too cold (below 65 degrees) or your foam roof coating will not set up properly and can also freeze. You don’t want it to be too hot because it is very easy to get heat stroke and burns during the hottest months in Arizona. If the temp is too warm, the coating will set a lot faster and attaining an even application is more difficult. You will need at least a two man crew to coat your roof. One person will apply the coating to the foam, and the other go behind the first and backroll the coating into a nice, smooth, even finish. Also, it is always safer to have 2 people working together. Remember: please use extreme caution when working on your roof. It can be very easy to get distracted while focusing on the coating, and you could very easily fall off your roof!

2. Safety first. FACT: Roofing contractors pay the highest workman’s compensation rates in the world. There is a reason for this. Roofing is a very dangerous job! Be sure to set up your project properly before starting. Consider tarping your property around the perimeter of your building to protect it. Be sure your ladder is safely and securely placed and proper fall protection is in place. Proper fall protection could include a person on the ground guiding the roofing crew as to their whereabouts. Fall protection can also include safety harnesses and tie-offs. Be sure to bring lots of drinking water up onto the roof with you, and use a high SPF sunscreen on your skin. Most roofers prefer to wear light colored, long sleeve cotton shirts and a hat that shades well. Some people wet a rag and keep it around their neck for the cooling effect against the skin. Remember that whatever you are wearing is going to get Elastomeric coating all over it, and it will be ruined. Elastomeric coating does not come off in the washer! So be prepared to wear old work clothing while working. Sunglasses are a must, too- it is very bright up on your white foam roof.

3. Inspect your roof carefully for damage. If you see any yellow or orange foam showing through the white coating, this means you have waited too long to coat your roof. Moisture will have penetrated the roof. If you find any of these things, you really need to call a licensed contractor to do the job. Your roof may need special attention like a multi layer liquid applied system (4-layer), special caulking, primer or other preparation before the coating is to be applied. Your contractor may need to complete a moisture test, and may have to cut out any blisters he finds. If you try to fix these problems yourself, you could end up doing more harm than good. If you simply try to re-coat over these symptoms without addressing them properly, you will cover up the problem areas, and will continue to have problems with your roof down the road, it will be difficult for your roofing contractor to pinpoint the bad areas once they have been covered up. If you recoat your roof over exposed foam, you risk trapping moisture into the foam, which will cause gases to form, and blisters will start to form and erupt, ruining the whole roofing system! This can cost you much more than simply hiring a licensed contractor to take care of the problems in the first place.

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4. Inspect your roof for hail damage. You may not know that there was a HUGE hailstorm that damaged thousands of roofs in October, 2010. Look closely at your foam coating (this may require you getting on your hands and knees) for hail damage. It will look like dozens of little dents in your roof that may have small or large cracks in the elastomeric coating. It may also look like the surface of the moon depending on where in the valley you live. If you find this, you may have hail damage on your foam. Another good way to see if your roof may be hail damaged is to take a look at your A/C unit. Are there white spots that look like hail damage on it? If your A/C unit is hail damaged, chances are your roof is hail damaged, too. You cannot only put an elastomeric coating on a hail damaged roof. A certian type of caulking made for roofs will need to be applied using special techniques, first. This process requires a licensed roofing professional that specializes in foam roofing. The good part is, homeowners insurance companies pay for the cost of repairing a hail damaged roof, so you save not only that cost, but once the hail damage is fixed, a fresh coating is also added, and you don’t have to pay for the coating! Now you will also have a contractor’s warranty for the roof coating! But beware, if your licensed contractor says they can fix the damage by just using a simple re-coat, ask questions or consider shopping around until you find a contractor that will be using proper techniques to fix the hail divits BEFORE they start the re-coat process. BE AWARE, some foam roofs may require complete removal and installation of new foam, depending on the extent of the damage If, AND ONLY IF, you find no damage or exposed foam, you can now proceed to recoat your roof yourself.

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5. Using a pressure washer, clean off any debris, leaves and dirt off the roof. Also, use this time to check your scuppers and gutters and any other penetrations for damage, before preceding repair and clean those out as well. If there is any dirt leftover on your roof, the elastomeric coating will not adhere properly to your existing roof, and your efforts will be wasted.

6. Allow your roof to dry completely before applying the coating- usually about 24 hours.

7. Primer. Primer is often times needed and mostly recommended depending on the age and condition of the existing coating.

8. Apply your first coat. Now, it is important that you do not apply a roof coating when outside temperatures are below 65 degrees, as the coating will not “set up” properly. We recommend starting the first coat around mid-morning. Also, be sure to check your weather forecast and be sure it will not rain for at least 4 days.

We recommend using a minimum total of 2 gallons of elastomeric coating per square (a square is a 10’ x 10’ section of roofing). Don’t forget to apply your coating up onto any parapet walls, as well. You can apply the first coat by rolling it on with large rollers, then back roll into a nice, smooth, even finish. Rollers can be purchased at the supplier that you purchase the elastomeric coating from. Now two gallons may seem like quite a heavy application, but this is absolutely necessary. Remember, our harsh desert sun will begin to eat through even this much coating in less than 5 years!

9. Allow your first coat to dry- usually 24 to 48 hours.

10 . Apply a second coat of elastomeric coating. Again, using a minimum of 1gallons per square, per coat- for a total of 2gallons of elastomeric coating per square. Again, be sure to backroll the coating into a nice, even finish.

MsBabyD :

Distributed by: BEST MATERIALS





Page 1 of 5

AES-100 Flexible Roof Coating


AES-100 is a flexible, two-part epoxy designed to p

rotect a variety of surfaces. When cured,

AES-100 forms a flexible, rubber-like membrane that

is UV stable and withstands ponding


It is especially suited to applications where chemi

cal or corrosion protection is needed and where

moisture content may prevent the use of other coati


Application Areas:

AES-100 is excellent for waterproofing EPDM, TPO, P

VC, built-up, single ply, polyurethane

foam, concrete, and metal roofs.


Withstands ponding water.

Provides excellent protection against acids, bases

and petroleum-based products.

Provides excellent protection against salt spray

for ocean front properties.

Does not support the growth of fungi.


Provides a secure barrier to water penetration.

Rain will not adversely affect coating during appli


Adheres even to damp surfaces without priming.

Smooth nonporous surface which allows dirt

to wash off during a rain storm.

100% adhesion of product to substrate.

Retains flexibility in sub-zero conditions.

Surface will not exceed 10ºF above ambient temperat


Distributed by: BEST MATERIALS





Page 2 of 5

Sustainable roofing system that saves expensive

removal and disposal.

10 yr. extendable warranty available for roofs.


Surfaces must be cleaned free of grease, oil, films

, dust, or any other contaminants. All roof

surfaces must be pressure-washed to remove any barr

ier films. Metal must be free of mill scale,

oils, rust, etc. Hard-finished concrete should be

etched to provide profile (or “tooth”) for optimal

adhesion. These preparation procedures are general

guidelines. Consult AES technicians for

further details or special preparation procedures.

Roofing specifications are also available for

various substrates. Detailed preparation methods a

re available through SSPC at




The mixing of parts A & B is very important!

AES-100 has a mixing ratio of 4 parts “B” to 1

part “A”. Use a power mixer to thoroughly combine

both parts. Mix for at least

one (1)


per gallon.

Allow idle activation time for at least ten (10) mi



AES-100 can be applied by air-less spray equipment,

brush, or roller at approximately 100-sq. ft.

per gallon. Surface configuration, weather, or are

a surroundings may dictate application method.

A two-coat application is recommended to help insur

e complete protection. Surfaces subject to

significant movement or other difficult conditions

may require heavier applications and the use

of Poly-lace. All transitions of surface materials

should be covered with AES-100 and Poly-lace

fabric. All penetrations should be sealed with AES-


Apply only when air temperature is 37° F and rising

with no forecasted freeze or snow for a

minimum of 48 hours.

Dry Film Application Rate:

To yield dry film of: Apply Sq. Ft/gallon:

13 mils 100 Sq. Ft.

6.5 mils 200 Sq. Ft.


apply product heavier than 24 wet mils per coat. I

f more is needed, apply in multiple

coats. Allow AES-100 to become tack-free before app

lying additional coats or approximately 8

hrs at 80ºF.

Distributed by: BEST MATERIALS





Page 3 of 5


Thinner is only necessary when spraying, add no mor

e than 2 quarts of Xylene per 5 gallons of

epoxy. Thinning retards cure time and increases the

possibility of sagging.

Do not add thinner

until after activation is completed.


AES-100 should be applied in well-ventilated areas.

Surfaces should be free of foreign matter.


apply near open flame.

Clean Up:

Application equipment should be cleaned immediately

with lacquer thinner. Use Apple Cider

Vinegar to clean hands and skin.

Do not allow coating to remain on tools! Once it

sets and is

cured, it is difficult to remove.


Never bring Apple Cider Vinegar or any other cleani

ng products where roof is being coated. If

spilled, it may hinder the curing and adhesion of t

he product.


5-gallon units: 13 lbs/gal

1 pail containing 4 gals of Base (part “B”)

1 gal can full, containing Activator (part “A”)

25-gallon units: 13 lbs/gal

5 pails containing 4 gals of Base (part “B”)

1 pail containing 5 gals of Activator (part “A”)



Standard Colors (White, Tan, and Grey)

Solids Content:

83% Solids

Mixing Ratio:

4 Parts “B” to 1 part “A” (4:1)

Salt-Fog Testing (ASTM B-117):

500 hrs. – pass

Distributed by: BEST MATERIALS





Page 4 of 5

Permeance (ASTM D-1653)

0.8 perms

Water Swelling (ASTM – D471)


Tensile Strength (ASTM D-638):

1393 psi 210% elongation


210 lbs./sq. in.

Tear Resistance (ASTM D-624)

118 lb/in

Fungi Resistance (ASTM G-21)

0 (Pass)

Fire Rating ( ASTM E-108):

Class “ A “ fire rating

Low Temperature Flex -15° F (ASTM D-522)


1000 hr. Accelerated W

eathering (ASTM D-4798)

Pass (No cracking or checking)

Controlled Impact (21/2 inch simulated hail)

No Rupture

Polyurethane Foam (36 – 40 mils)

Metal (24 – 26 mils)

Solar Reflectance (ASTM C 1549)


Emittance (ASTM C 1371-04a)


Solar Refléctense Índex (ASTM E 1980)


Curing Time:

Pot Life: 4 hrs @ 80°F

Drying Time: 8 hrs @ 80°F

Complete: 7 days @ 80°F

Shelf Life and Storage Conditions:

AES-100FR has a 12 month shelf life if unopened and

stored between 40 degrees Fahrenheit and

90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Do not allow products to freeze.

MsBabyD :

Here is the number

MsBabyD :



Page 1 of 5
MsBabyD :

I dont know what color your lookinh for But I found this in differsnt color at the sale price

MsBabyD :


AES-100 Flexible Epoxy Roof Coating, WHITE (1G)
Advanced Epoxy Systems AES-100, Class-A Fire Rated, 2-part Flexible Epoxy Roof Coating System, 83% Solids, WHITE COLOR. 1-Gallon Kit. Price/Kit. (Flammable when liquid, Ground or truck shipment only).
$93.00 SALE $78.95

MsBabyD :


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MsBabyD :

if you need other help let me know please


Thank you. I was not expecting such a comprehensive answer, but I am grateful for your help. The photos are excellent.

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