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Handyman-4-Rent, Macgyver
Category: Home Improvement
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Experience:  35 + years in the building trades - experienced Expert advice
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how to disolve cement from pvc pipe ...

Resolved Question:

how to disolve cement from pvc pipe
Submitted: 11 years ago.
Category: Home Improvement
Expert:  Handyman-4-Rent replied 11 years ago.

Hello - PVC cement, or portland ? It doesnt matter much - pvc cement is pretty much a done deal, the best you can do is to try pvc cleaner to soften it. Its nearly impossible to remove it without making a huge mess.

Portland cement should just chip off.

If you have more specifics associated with this let me know and I'll figure out a solution.

Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to Handyman-4-Rent's Post: When the slab of our home was poured, apparently regular concrete seeped into the sewage pipe and it is pooled near a joint. This caused approximately a 70 % blockage in our sewer line. Did you ever hear about using Murutic acid inside PVC pipe to help disolve concrete? What would be your method of removal or repair? Go through the slab or tunnel underneath the house?
Expert:  Handyman-4-Rent replied 11 years ago.

Hello - I'm sorry to hear this type of situation. Muriatic acid will clean concrete, but I don't think you want to try using it to disolve it in this instance. How I would go about this repair depends on if you know (almost exactly) where the problem section is, how deep in the ground it is located, is it located under the basement floor, or garage floor or ??

IF it is a straight shot to the problem from where the pipe exits the house you may be able to cut the pipe inside and get in (with a long enough) something to bust up the cement ??

If you know where it is, I would figure the easiest, cost effective method and fix the joint. anything else is asking for trouble. Get back to me if you know where it is located and we'll figure out some options for you.

Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to Handyman-4-Rent's Post: The cement in the PVC sewage is approximately 41 feet from the back of my house or 20 feet from the front of my house under the slab of my home. The location is approximately 2-3 feet from my toilet in my front bathroom. This particular sewage line is a straight shot to where the blockage is, but it is deep in and not close to either clean out. If replacement of the pipe is necessary, would you recommend going in through the top of the slap or tunnel from underneath the slap to replace the pipe. Which would be the most cost effective?
Expert:  Handyman-4-Rent replied 11 years ago.

Hello - You may be able to get at it from the front toilet ?? Am I to understand this is on a slab ? (no basement) How far in from the edge of the slab is it ?

The problem with going UNDER the slab to repair is the added expense of machinery and labor to operate it. You also need to be careful to fill the excavated area and compact it properly. (If the pipe is BURIED in cement this method will be harder )

The problem with going through the TOP is if this is a "finished" living space, the flooring will need to be pulled (or replaced) also if the affected area is under a wall it makes it a little trickier.

If this were a basement floor - I would cut a hole and fix the pipe and patch it in. I realize this is taking awhile but I think we're just about to the end.

Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to Handyman-4-Rent's Post: This is a single level home. No basement. The blockage is approximately 4-5 feet from the right side of the house. The plumbers plan to remove the toilet today and take a look. They are considering putting muratic acid in the line to loosen the cement and blow out the remainder of rocks afterwards. Hopefully, this will work and not damage the PVC pipes. The contractor is liable for the repair. I believe they may also try tapping the cement loose with an iron rod. I appreciate your help. Send me back a reply and I will pay you your fee. Hopefully, I can share the outcome of the results with you later today.
Expert:  Handyman-4-Rent replied 11 years ago.
Hello - thanks for the update, I would be careful about the dislodged cement chunks travelling down the line and causing further blockage. Something I forgot to mention is if you tunnel from the side, you will literall need to go under then up, as the slab will be thicker at the edges, due to footings and the like. For your sake I hope the plumbers are successful. Something I just thought of is if the plumbers have a carbide hole saw the right size - they may be able to fashion a flexible shaft to the hole saw and "cut" the cement out ?? It will be a slow process, but it could work.
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