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GM silhouette: Have 2004 olds silhouette with power sliding

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Have 2004 olds silhouette with...
Have 2004 olds silhouette with power sliding door, passenger side only. PSD did not work when I purchased. After playing with it for a while deceided I needed help. Dealers tester does not have an option to test psd, mechanic said didn't know of any way to "trick" the tester, so do not know if any codes or not. We tested all fuses and tried the computer reset, but no luck. Based on experiences, we door actuator was replaced, but that wasn't problem. Basically the is no initial activation when any of the switches are operated, but door does open and close manually. When using remote, do hear a "click" from behind dash but no other action. He checked his resources but indicated it could be a long process and would cost for time. Suggested I could start to test sources because it could be a broken wire or bad ground. Since I have used "just answer" for some problems with my other cars and got good results figured I would try that. I have a volt meter but really do not know where I should start, other then checking all fuses which I have already done. Can you give me some step by step test points or process of what to do next. Also, I previously replaced the body control module because of some other problems this vehicle had, and everything else seems to be working OK.
he checked his sources
Submitted: 2 years ago.Category: GM
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Answered in 4 minutes by:
7/21/2015
GM Mechanic: Jerry Newton, GMC Technician replied 2 years ago
Jerry Newton
Jerry Newton, GMC Technician
Category: GM
Satisfied Customers: 4,832
Experience: ASE Master Technician, L1, Master GM Technician. Over 20 years of bumper to bumper GM experience.
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This door has to be initialized before it will work, especially if the actuator has been replaced. Do you know if you/your mechanic performed this procedure?
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago

If it is the same one that is in the owners manual, pulling fuse etc that has bben done, but door didn't work before actuator was relaced, another source suggested that the actuator had been his experience about 70% of the time. So I gave it a shot but that didn't clear the problem.

GM Mechanic: Jerry Newton, GMC Technician replied 2 years ago
I'm going to give you two documents. The first one tells you about the door diagnostics. The tech at the dealership didn't spend any time researching this, unfortunately, because diagnosis doesn't require a scan tool, the procedure is built into the van. The PDF I am attaching describes how to do it, and what the codes mean. We can figure out what to do next from there. The second PDF tells you how to initialize the door, I would do this before doing any diagnostic work, as this might be all that needs to happen. It does not involve removing a fuse, again, it seems your tech might have missed the mark on this one. These documents are directly from the GM service manual for your vehicle.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago

Thanks for the quick response. Triede re-initialization as you suggested, but no luck. Went to the On board process. Assuming latched meant locked, locked both doors even though this car only has a passenger power door. Went through the "entering on-board diagnostics" locked both doors, ignition switch off aer nd followed instructions but never got the long tone indicating mode was active. Repeated the process a second time and still no tone indicating mode 1 to be active. This could be what my guy meant when he said he couldn't even get into the initialization process and suggested checking wiring. What are your thoughts??

GM Mechanic: Jerry Newton, GMC Technician replied 2 years ago
I would be looking at the connection to the door module, using this schematic, and seeing if the power and ground circuits are doing what they're supposed to do. If you have any questions about this, please let me know, but this schematic holds all of the info you need to test these circuits.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago

Got a voltage tester, but where is the right rear door actuator control module? I replaced the actuator itself, but it only has 2 leads and the harness it connects to is the one for the lock mechanism and it is two also a two wire connector. Where is the module the drawing refers to?

GM Mechanic: Jerry Newton, GMC Technician replied 2 years ago
The module is attached to the power sliding door mechanism, under the trim panel on the RR interior of the van. It has many more than just two wires attached to it. You sure you didn't see a module when you were replacing the power door actuator?
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago

the actuator itself is in the sliding door, I didnt need to remove the interior panel, That is a little more work. I will start on that tomorrow after I get back from work. will get back to you after I locate that and check out the battery and ground contacts; thanks again will get back to you.

GM Mechanic: Jerry Newton, GMC Technician replied 2 years ago
Very good, I'll talk to you when you're ready.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago

Don't have the torx and other tools needed to remove the panel. (I am at my daughter's for the next week, so will not be able to check out the module right now, for battery and grounds. Let me ask you this, if I do get the correct readings on the contacts, what would be my next course of action, and if I don't see them what should I do?. I am only asking you this so that I can pay you now and you wont have to wait until I get home. No sense in keeping you waiting because of my situation. Also, on the diagram you sent me, do those codes and numbers also appear on the module, or how do I match them up with the harness and connectors at the module? Also if I do need to trace leads back, are there other drawings that show connection points where readings can be checked in case it is a broken wire or bad connection?

GM Mechanic: Jerry Newton, GMC Technician replied 2 years ago
If you can decipher the diagram, all of the information is there for you. The diagram tells you the wire color, the connector number, and the terminal number for each connection, and if you look at the middle of the door module "box" there is a legend that tells you which connector is which. I suspect that you'll find that your readings are correct and you need a new sliding door motor, but I'd want to test this before making that assumption. The door actuator and the module are contained where I told you. I'm still a little confused about which part you replaced, it must have been the door latching unit? All of the motorized functions for this door are contained under that trim panel. Check for power on pink and orange wires, ground on the black wires. Do the trouble code readout first, see if that gives you any clues. The brass looking contacts on the door do tend to get corroded over time, you may just have a contact issue. I am happy to follow up with you if you get somewhere in the middle of this and get lost, I know there is a lot of info to absorb.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago

If it is the motor, would that prevent the on board diagnostic features from working? Where is the function that lets that work located? That is why I need to verify the voltage and ground connections. Do you know what controls those functions and where is it located? I would think that if they were operating properly then some type of a trouble code would confirm what the problem is. As far as the actuators are concerned, in my vehicle there are 2 actuators located in the sliding door and they are mounted on the same panel the first controls the door lock and It operates properly, the second I believe is for the sliding door operation and this one does not operate when the door operation switch is operated. When I operate manually it operates a plunger on the sliding door latch mechanism, I have seen two other parts sheet that show the door and all it parts and neither of those sheets showed 2 actuators but my 2004 olds has 2, any ideas as to what drawings would be needed that would show 2 actuators?

GM Mechanic: Jerry Newton, GMC Technician replied 2 years ago
You have an unlock actuator in the door, as well as a switch, but those things aren't what makes the power sliding portion of the door work. They work in conjunction with the PSD, but the major PSD components are inside the vehicle, under the large trim panel next to the back seat. That's where the motor and cable assembly are located, as well as the PSD module that you're looking for, to test power and ground. Even the actuator that's in the door is controlled by the module that's inside the vehicle, so that's where you really need to be.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago

Thanks for the response, I bought another torx so that I can remove the seat belt bolts ans get the rear panel off. In the meantime I retested the OBD instructions you sent and I can enter the sequence. I must have been doing something wrong before. I now get a 12 code from Mode 1and enter Mode 2. I DO NOT get a response from the first step, Power Sliding Door Switch. I DO get the priper responses from the next 2 steps, but NO responses Keyless Entry Command and No other responses from the remainder of the tests, and I cannot enter Mode 3. I do not know if the Re-initialization works or not because steps 5 & 6 do nothing. I will finish removing the Right rear quarter panel today so that I can see what all is there and check for battery and grounds on the Module. Do the responses I have gotten from the start of Mode 2 give you any ideas as to what I should be looking for or testing that might not be in the quarter panel?

Customer reply replied 2 years ago

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I am a die hard and still working on tracing back the wires. I seem to be ok, under static conditions, but I am a little confused by some of the notations on the drawings as I am not a technician. On some of the drawings, they make reference to, for instance, 0.8 orn, or 0.35 orn, or 0.35 pnk etc. I can understand the colors, but what do the 0.## ***** or refer to. I am now working on the asumption that I have a broken wire or poor connection somewhere. I was able to obtain a module for the sliding rear door, and swapped it out, but that didn't work. My source was the web and it was to have been checked out and working when removed from the vehicle. It only cost me $25 but I figured it might be a chance to save a lot of searching but nothing changed. I know I am probably a "pain in the neck" but before I disconnect the mechanism and make it a manual door, I want to try all options, and I really appreciate your help. Thanks

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